all is I know is what I can see as I bought the car only recently, there is a straight through exhaust with a hot dog on each pipe so I dont think its very restrictive. the previous owner was not very mechanically minded, the motor was rebuilt about 10,000 ago and he said there was some head work but he didnt know what exactly.
 
Steve I cant see me bringing the car over on the boat any time soon, you are welcome to a drive any time!

Done a few track days over the past few months and have had a lot of fun with the car. Ive been picking away at the excess crap to reduce a bit of weight, its quite addictive! So far I have removed about 90kg (25kg front, 40kg middle and 25kg rear), major items being the cat, power steering pump/accessories, abs and accessories, fitted bucket seats and removed interior trim, sound deadening etc.
 
I have changed the suspension considerably and brakes too and the car feels very neutral on the track. Changes are:
 - New front and rear ball joints
 - New front and rear Eibach lowering springs
 - Larger front swaybar and reinforcement plates
 - Pillow ball tension rods and mounts
 - 4 point front underbrace
 - Prothane bushing kit for front, rear and swaybars
 - Suspension geometry adjustment kit, RCAs etc
 - Late model brake booster and larger master cylinder
 - Gen 3 brake disc, calipers, slotted discs
 
I only have 2 deg camber up front so I’ll need to do something about that.
 
The plan next is for a W2A intercooler system similar to that in my other car. As Im going to remove the heating system, Im going to reuse and modify the heater lines to transfer water to and from the heat exchanger, these are around 16mm to 20mm in diameter, not ideal but probably enough. Makes a lot of sense though and will save a fair bit of hassle. I don’t think there is room for anything larger above the fuel tank and will be nice and discreet in that location. I’ll probably put a small 2litre tank in the frunk.
 
The heater lines will be modified to pass through the tunnel via bulkhead fittings, as Im planning to fasten the intercooler to the firewall behind the passenger seat and roll cage, with the air pipes passing through the firewall to the inlet manifold. This will keep the intercooler away from the heat and also free up space for a nice big air filter and box in the engine bay.
 
Im considering a small box in the system containing 1” copper with decent surface area so I can try some dry ice to reduce inlet temps even further. Will be easy to determine the before and after effectiveness of this as Im not sure if the water would be in contact with the ice for long enough to have a benefit. Its worth a go.
Im still toying with the idea of E85 and sticking with the steel wheeled ct26. I figured with all this I should have around 200 rwkw to play with. After that I’ll keep going hard until I have pushed the limits of the suspension, especially tyres before considering wider wheels, more power etc
 
 

Lots of like minded ideas in the last two posts haha.
 
If you still want a heater (albeit pretty crappy) just tap the two radiator lines. I am binning my pipes altogether, and the heater is not as important to me.

Great minds think alike Brendan! I just left the auto rack in place, removed all the lines and blocked off. Someone told me the auto rack has less lock to lock than the manual. The steering feels quite good, I can feel the road better. The rack does need a rebuild though and I also have the quick steer pinion to fit, looking forward to that.
 
I have test fitted the IC and it fits behind the cage. My cage is a bit of a budget build. You could probably get a custom IC built to fit, the firewall tapers the higher you go so you could get something wedge shaped in there. Steve the diameter is highly dependant on the number and sharpness of bends, the more you have the greater the diameter you need to limit pressure loss in the system. I'll be keeping the air supply pipework pretty simple as this car will probably never be a fully fledged race car, it needs to be an all rounder for rally, targa etc.

I'll make a start on it but I need to order all the fittings etc yet, pull the fuel tank out etc etc

I intend to return the lines through the tunnel into the cabin, with a bulkhead fitting securing them to the tunnel so I'll need access in there. Anyways, I need to remove the tank to fit a new fuel pump so it will just make things easier.
 
I wired up all my gauges today, its my first wiring job and pleased with the result. Thanks for your advice Steve!

The video footage
https://www.facebook.com/UltimateTrackdayChallenge?ref=hl&bookmark_t=page#
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vo3vooQe45M