The car is progressing well as far as appearance goes. Another great point has been solving a few wiring gremlins which needed to be done before tuning day. It is still a little unhappy at idle but its going in the right direction. Does not seem to have any trigger errors which is a big plus but it will be getting a timing light test and reset just to be sure.
I am finding the flex fuel sensor a weird one as it is showing no octane level when using 98 octane pump fuel. Simply shows zero. If anyone has an answer for this please let me know. 
Finally sorted the erratic oil pressure readings. 
Another one on the list is resetting the Racepak dash so all sensors are showing the same reading as the Haltech which is is not doing ATM. 
Aux fuel for intake pump is now working correctly too as it would not operate on a ING output of the Haltech where it states it can be done. Its now on a DPO, working the way it is meant to. 
Windows and mirrors are 98% there. Did a water test today. It did not fair very well! At least there is no carpet to get wet so no great loss.
Then the sun came out, heated up the car so I did a test up the street and back(10kmh) . Seems to be ok but damn its hot in there so fixing air flow is on the list. 
Here are some photos after its first wash, decals all finished. Hopefully see a few sponsors if I get incredibly lucky but unlikely..

 

Flex fuel sensors read the ethanol percentage, not the octane rating.
The car looks awesome!

robk
Flex fuel sensors read the ethanol percentage, not the octane rating.
The car looks awesome!

Thanks Rob. I still have a few small body mods to come but its almost ready enough to do a few laps.Just not on a 40 degree day.
I will be picking up some E85 this week to test out that sensor to make sure all is working well. 

Some more updates as the car gets closer to making its way back to the track. 
 
The dyno tune is booked for 22nd Feb. It is now 100% ready for the tuner with no leaks, correct coolant management, all sensors working, fuel system is ok, all firmware updated. It feels good to be in this space. Thermo fans are doing their job with the car able to idle at 80C for as long as I like. Have tested up to 40 minutes without any problems. 
 
I have added a few photo's of the changes I made with remote battery isolation cable over the original set up. This way is a lot better than the original as no binding or poor access to the cable. 
 
Glenn's cabin temps were a big issue at Bathurst which is something I do not want to see happening in my car so have started work on this by using the ducting which was first set for brakes, now being used for cabin cooling. The right side duct enters at the foot well with the right being set up for driver helmet/face. Chances are, it will have a blower plus filters to reduce fumes from other vehicles. 
 
Another addition I have been wanting for quite some time is a fuel purge system. Is has been made a lot easier with the addition of the surge tank. It simply needed a 'Tee' section then hardline to a remote point where a AN6 dry break connector was fitted. So now its just a simple act of clicking on a drain line to the dry break connector, clamping the line to the surge tank, then turning on the lift pump. No spillage, complete control.
 
Also threw some paint at the cabin t tidy it up a bit. This is not perfect but good enough.  

 
 

Admin
It looks great! I can't wait to see and hear it at the track.

Thanks Glenn. Its getting there.
 
Will continue to work hard to have it ready for driving. As you know time fly's and time to work on cars can be hard to find so will do my best to be ready for track work in 3 weeks time. Really need a day or two setting up data logging, camera, radio too. 
Will WP for the first shake down then move to SMP. The SMP300 is going to come around real quick.

Good progress. Don't forget that you can only have the OEM flat floor between the front and rear axles if you are going to compete in time attack open class. You can get strengthened OEM panels from MR2 Heaven. This is what I have on my car.