artymr2
Good work!
 
Depending on the years of car/motor, you might need to do some re pinning in the rear fuse box connectors.
 

Thanks. Everything is Gen 3 so fingers crossed that there aren't any changes needed.

I don't know about the gen 3, but on the gen 2 the oil light on the dash is based on oil pressure rather than oil level, and the oil pressure switch is on the left side of the cylinder head.

robk
I don't know about the gen 3, but on the gen 2 the oil light on the dash is based on oil pressure rather than oil level, and the oil pressure switch is on the left side of the cylinder head.

Okay that would make a lot more sense. Cheers

Mrskylighter
The vacuum leaks shouldn't have much of an impact on the idling etc as the engine is map sensor based (unless the vac leaks are after the throttle body)

Hmmm this then presents another issue. Thanks 

Cheers. I am finding that after about 20-30 seconds of the engine running the yellow low oil level light is coming on. Providing that there is not a level sensor on the the Gen3 turbos; is it best just to disconnect the bulb from the cluster?

Thanks, i have removed the bulb for now. 
 
I have also fixed the CEL. I made a slight mistake between the STP wire and the W wire in the body loom (easy fix). 
 
The last few days have been interesting and emotional at the same time. The engine had been idling very rough and would cut itself at acceleration until yesterday where it had decided to kick over for a split second and then die. After going through spark plugs and swapping out the ignitor, MAP sensor and TPS to no avail....i suspected a dud pump. Obviously i was not going to be very happy if it was going to be the pump as its brand new. Nonetheless it turns out the pump wasn't receiving a constant 12v connection. 
 
This again was my fault as i had the FC wire (Green/Red) in the body loom tied in incorrectly and was connected in a way as if the fuel pump relay was there which it is not since I'm using the NA body loom. To get the fuel pump to work i fed this wire through the firewall where the body loom goes through into the engine bay and spliced it into the other green/red wire that goes into the back of the circuit opening relay. In doing this it still has the safety of the EFI fuse and still switches nicely via ignition. 
 
She now runs beautifully! The NA never ran as smooth as this engine. So hopefully she drives as good as she idles and revs. Provided i can get all the little things done tomorrow; i might be lucky enough to be able to take her for a test drive tomorrow night. 

Good to hear mate! Keep us updated on the progress.

First i would to start this post off with.....WOW!!! She is just amazing. Completely different car and she now goes as fast as she looks and the boost controller hasnt even been dialled in yet. I couldnt stop grinning and giggling; giddy as a school girl and the BOV alone appeals to the childish side of me. 
 
The gearbox is nice and tight to the point I'm not used to driving such a tight gearbox. The clutch is in good order too, feels like its a heavy duty clutch. She has been booked into MRC next Wednessday for a tune up, to get the boost controller setup and for a blue slip. 
 
Anyway it is not all good news. The ABS light now stays on which has me confused as i am sure that i didnt damage the speed sensors when putting them in the new hubs. The light stays on but i have no ABS. Then every now and again the light goes out and you can hear the ABS system doing its check and braking becomes difficult and has a shudder.  I thought possibly this may have something to do with the Turbo ECU as it has a wire for ABS but the NA did not and worked independently from ECU.
 
The other issue is that the rubber intercooler coupler that clamps to the throttle body keeps popping off under full boost. Ill try the a super clamp and see if it stays on. But what is interesting is the BOV worked correctly when the pipping came loose from the throttle body. But once put back together i was getting the compressor surge sound.