Surely you'd have been notified by now if a write off.

Actually I would've expected a call either way by now.

Back again, car in much better shape than pre-accidon, pardon my French.
Got a $10k pay out and spent $6k to fix with better paint than prev. The extra $4k paid for the new wheels with proper 45&40mm offsets (steering is lighter/better), a year's rego, boost gauge to go in the dash, sway bar reo plates, working aircon which it never had (yay!). So bang for buck, I recommend finding a blind driver and putting your car in the way.
  Back to the brakes.... just rebuilt the rear callipers and apparently I may be the only person in Oz to buy the $5 special tool which allows the brilliant handbrake mechanism to be reinstalled. Happy to lend it to anyone, but upon completion I can honestly say that I cannot detect any improvement in handbrake action. The only reason I chased after the handbrake was in case it contributed to my low pedal. So now, it is eliminated, but I still have the classic "master cylinder pump" pedal.
 After trying to source a rebuild kit for the m/c, without knowing the state of the cylinder, I've decided to upgrade the m/c
  I just read through this thread and lots of great suggestions have been offered except for the particular combination I have in mind.
 Overrriding is that I need to replace the M/c, but I've decided that early ABS systems are more dangerous than their benefit, especially if you know how to drive. So first, I want to remove the 1990 ABS system, not just turn it off or bypass, but I'd like to go from master direct to slaves and remove any possible air bubbles, sticky ABS valves, etc. In all the thread posts previously, people have changed m/c sizes but retained the old plumbing, abs or no abs, or also combined with larger disk calliper set-ups.
 I'm pretty sure I can find a thread that will help me remove the ABS unit and replace the piping, but after that I still need to select the best M/C and booster.
 All my callipers are stock 1990 and for road use will be adequate.
So has anyone replaced stock m/c + ABS with a non-ABS m/c plus piping ?
 
 
 
 

The ABS unit has no effect on brake bias. There is a proportioning valve that is fitted in the rear brake lines.

 Thanks Guys,
ok I'll go back to my original plan which was to reco the m/c?
Some risk is that the cylinder is bad and new seals may not solve, or wear out quickly.
 
Another q, I see repeated mention of significant improvement later Sdubs had using a different, thinner booster.
Is that something that a 1990 m/c can bolt straight onto ? Or would I need the later model mc/ and callipers.
Until I have reco'd the 1990 m/c I don't know if the brakes will be adequate or not.
 
Another q, I read that the early brakes will fade on the track after a few laps, hence the changes made by Toyota.
I don't know much about that , is it a hydraulic "boiling" or the pad/disk grip issue ?
Does it come on suddenly/dangerously or is it something that progressively worsens ? 
 
 cheers

 Thanks Redd, it seems there are some options available and appreciate the checkvalve comments
 From 5sgte's post immed after yours on P2, he says he bolted the orig fat booster to the later 1" m/c, so that would imply the reverse , a post 94 booster would bolt to the orig 7/8" m/c.  Not saying that's what I'll do, but it seems to indicate that versions will at least bolt together.
 Anyway just ordered the m/c reco kit from USA, then after payment had this anxious thought, "I hope
the m/c is original and not  been upgraded by a previous owner !!??"     Doubt it....
 
cheers, undoubtedly more questions will follow...

Thanks Eric, nice description.
It encourages me to leave it all stock (but working better than currently) and then upgrade if necessary.
 
Any reason why I shouldn't mate one of the powerful boosters to a 90 7/8" m/c ??
 

Yep that seems like the plan. 
I look forward to having the pedal firm.
TBH I can't recall the pads I put in.
 

They're interchangeable, just need to keep abs with abs, non abs with non abs to suit the hardlines.