MCT_MR2
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5SGTE, I'm not sure how Pat has plumbed his unit, but i can help shed some light if you like.  Here is the basic system diagram from when billion/arc used to sell universal swirl pot kits.  This is the swirl pot. it goes in the upper radiator hose. it is just a basic cylinder with offset radiator hose outlets opposite eachother, to get a swirl happening. This helps the air get bleed port, which is attached to the header tank.  Then you have your header tank. This becomes both your pressure cap, and highest point in the system. You will have take off points to the swirl pot, lower radiator hose (engine bay one in an mr2), and you can also take off from heater hose points or other trouble areas if you wish. In my experience, i have found them highly effective if circuit vehicles. for an example, we have a shop evo, that we shift at 8800rpm. The standard evo water pump starts to cavitate at 8000rpm, and even with the system pressure bumped up to 1.5 bar, the system will still cavitate at around 8300rpm. the caviation would cause localised boiling, which would introduce air into the system. also pockets have normal areas that are hard to bleed. The header tank system allows the air to be better managed, and removed from the system during hard running. Unfortunantley the ARC and billion kits are discontinued, but you could probably find an alternative, or have the bits required made up fairly cheaply. I have some rough pics of them installed on our shop car, where you can get an idea of an example of how the system can be setup:  
'88 MR2 4AGTE W/ EFR6258 224.6KW @ 20PSI more to come......
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Falcon
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Thanks MCT. Fascinating stuff. I sure would like to explore our cooling systems more.
If you have the time could you comment on why the thermostat is located in the suction side
(cold side) of the circuit and therefore requires the bypass circuit to trigger it's operation.
There must be a reason for setting it up this way but I can't figure it out.
Seems arse about face to me.
I have always believed the thermostat in the hot outlet from the head would be the most
restrictive spot to the flow therefore with the water pump hurling coolant into the lower block
would create significant pressure within the block and head as is typically required to press
the coolant into close contact with combustion chamber roofs especially.
I have heard of 20 30 40PSI. in some cooling systems when at full chat.
(within the block and head)
Interested in knowledgeable replies.
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5SGTE
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Thanks for that MCT! There's even an unused port on the thermostat housing that seems like an ideal take off point for the cold side.
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MCT_MR2
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Hi Falcon,
With advances in engine design and cfd etc, we moved from a simple thermostat, to our current bypass style thermostats. Now bypass style thermostats are used in the hot side and cold sides fairly equally.
Im not honestly aware of a benefit in using one method over another. I believe it comes down to packaging and engine design. Off the top of my head, any time a cold side thermostat it used (3sgte, rb20/25/26, 2jz, ej20/25) it can usually be packaged in close proximity to the water pump inlet.
Hot side thermostats are used in situations where packaging the thermostat near the water pump inlet isnt practical (4g63, 4age, b18c) interestingly enough, in the inline engines i have mentioned that use hotside thermostats, all three suffer issues with localised boiling the the head around the cylinder closest to the thermostat (cylinder 4)
'88 MR2 4AGTE W/ EFR6258 224.6KW @ 20PSI more to come......
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stuka
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Thanks for the info Nathan and Doug, that all makes a lot of sense.
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stuka
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Re:
2017/05/14 20:56:57
(permalink)
☼ Best Answerby Dudeman 2017/05/16 09:26:21
Nothing to report on development of the car.
I have however singed up for Targa Tasmania 2018. Targa is the longest tarmac rally in the world and is staged on some truly epic roads throughout that state. I now have 11 months to prepare the car for this and will use this thread as a blog for progress. The car campaigned in Targa Tasmania with the previous owner from 2007 through to 2011, you can see some of the photos from this period on page 1 of this thread.
I dont need to do anything major, but the regulations require me to change the turbo back to stock for example. No big deal as I still have the original turbo and also have a CT20b from my other car. Im toying on whether to get a CT20b recore from ATS or chico race works as they make some big power claims with these turbos, Im not sure how reliable these claims are though.
To say Im excited about this is an understatement, I have dreamed about doing this for quite a while now.
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rikkir
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Thats fantastic news. I'm just a bit jealous. I think you'll have a great time.
Silver 1997 SW20 Bathurst with 
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Carmikey
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Think I might come over for it to Pat... Nearly made it last year, would be great to see u compete.
Sent from my SM-J320ZN using Tapatalk
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Falcon
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That is great news. To be able to have a go at those roads full chat. Good stuff.
I will be there.
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Shaz
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Would love to come over as well,............. if the budget allowed. Obviously for a holiday & to watch, not to compete myself.  Looking at the dates, it would be a birthday pressy to myself.
post edited by Shaz - 2017/05/16 11:54:29
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5SGTE
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Ok you three have planted to seed... Off to look a travel options.
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Admin
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Awesome Pat! Keep us up to date on the progress of your preparation.
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stuka
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Thanks all, great to know I have the support of the MR2 community!!
If some of you are serious about coming down Im sure we could organise some activities while you are here....
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92 Hard Top
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I would like to visit Tasmania with my new restored mr2. Mybe Mike might go as well.
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B24
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Thats great news Pat. There are two major turbo rebuilders in Australia. Try these guys first.
I guess you will need incar radio's. There are always good sets available on my105 and Revolution race gear also have some competitive sets available. Go with the FM bandwidth units as the the AM can get annoying and difficult to hear at times.
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