put all power tools away! Power tools down - for now.
 
What is Loose? The Lock barrel (I undid the two 10mm bolts), it must be just hanging in there by the connecting rods. Latch is still bolted up as normal.
 
Hopefully can stop by a local MR2 workshop and have a look - I never actually had a good look at it so bit understanding what all I will try and hold.
 

lol, yeah, where are the thieves when you need them?
 
Maybe park it in one of the dodgy spots with a sign (6 pack of VB in the boot), and you might get some "experts"? 
 
Obviously try a normal way before cutting anything, but if you do have to resort to that, hinges are easily later replaced.  let me know if you need some pics of the set up, car is half apart so you I can take and post some to make it easier.
 

Hey, just a thought....
If it gets to the point where you have to break in by force, the obvious thing is to minimise the damage. Forget cutting boot hinges and stuff like that. Just drill straight through the boot lid, make a nice big hole, put your hand through and go from there. At least that way, all you'll have to replace is the lid. All the hinges , spoiler, etc can be left in good shape and you can pick a lid up pretty cheap compared to lots of those other bits.

Also, dont forget you will need to pull back the carpet from the beaver panel if its still secured.
 
The half cut we bought had the boot latched and missing lock, I couldnt get to the rods so just cut a hole.  I obviously didnt care too much but did try to unlatch it without damage for a while before pulling out the angle grinder.  Not saying it cant be done, but just be patient.  The camera will help heaps as you will be able to see what you are actually doing with the rods etc.
 

you can see them at the front edge of the bootlid looking to the rear if you remove the side panels next to the engine lid.  if you can cut through the hinge only (hence damaging only hinge), the front edge of the boot lid may lift enough to give you access to the rear beaver panel.  
 
just had a look, here are some pics.
 
Hinge looking from engine bay back with boot closed:

 
you should be able to either cut through the middle of the hinge pin and pull it out, or the vertical ribs, without damaging anything else.  YOu might also be able to cut one of the ends off the pin with a chisel.
 
Pic of hing from inside boot with boot open for reference:

 
latch at lock:

 
if you could lift the front of the boot lid enough to get your hand and spanner in there, you might be able to get to these 2 bolts and the boot lid will come off.
 
Like I said, try the non destructive methods first, but if this works (depends on how much give you will have with boot lid secured only by the latch), it shoudl be the simplest/cheapest rectification.
 
I would give this a go before cutting any holes etc.
 
Cheers 

Do you think you will be able to lift the rear of the boot sufficiently high (without bending things) to get a spanner in there?  The angle of the spanner will not be ideal either (yellow line) for a good bight on the bolt head.
 

 
Going the "hinge" way you will only need to tilt the boot at the latch, which should have some give.  YOu will probably need to protect the top of the lights from the boot lid edge as you tilt up.  The bolt heads should be easier to get to angle wise (red line).
 
A ratchet spanner would be good but only if there will be enough of a gap for you to slide it over the head, otherwise use decent open end and take your time.
 
If you are worried about replacement hinges, I am quite sure I have a set you can have (black).
 
Cheers

i have a boot lid somewhere...
 

/\ no Gen 3 sw20, they have different lights and boot key barrels to the gen 2 sw20 which is whats caused all this trouble.