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Helpful ReplyHot!The MR2 Australia SW20

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Re:The MR2 Australia SW20 2011/12/30 11:07:40 (permalink)
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Check this out - http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/28465-3sgte-cooling-sytem-problems-tech-info-required.html
Specifically - "Secondly, you need at least one of those 2 pipes that comes out of the back of the thermostat housing connected. One is for the return pipe from the heater, which can be disconnected if you don't need a working heater, but the other is the water recirculation pipe which needs to be retained. This should run into the water outlet housing on the rear of the engine. If you block this off, the hot water never reaches the back of the thermostat to tell it to open and your motor will overheat"

Mr Glengineering.
Please visit my other forums - 
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www.classic-ford.org
 
 
My build thread - https://www.mr2australia..m/mr2play/FindPost/47893
#91
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Re:The MR2 Australia SW20 2011/12/30 11:15:35 (permalink)
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This diagram is better than the one you posted


Mr Glengineering.
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My build thread - https://www.mr2australia..m/mr2play/FindPost/47893
#92
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Re:The MR2 Australia SW20 2011/12/30 13:35:29 (permalink)
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Ahh, very good point. thanks for that.
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Re:The MR2 Australia SW20 2011/12/31 09:52:46 (permalink)
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More pics











 
post edited by Admin - 2013/12/25 17:33:44

Mr Glengineering.
Please visit my other forums - 
www.celica.org.au
www.classic-ford.org
 
 
My build thread - https://www.mr2australia..m/mr2play/FindPost/47893
#94
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Re:The MR2 Australia SW20 2012/05/08 22:27:04 (permalink)
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An update - I have had the wheel bearings replaced on the rear and have now fitted the rear suspension back into the car. I have fitted the brake upgrade to one side though have issues with the other side which may take a while to fix (don't ask). I have a feeling that Celica ST185 calipers will fit on the Mazda RX8 rotors along with Kameleon's brackets, so will try that in the next couple of days.
I'm still (slowly) bolting other stuff to the engine which as you can see from above is sitting in the engine bay.
There isn't too much more work to do. The largest job is the rewiring of the engine loom. I intend on getting a big connector so I can easily disconnect the loom when I take the engine out next time.
I'm also moving the fuse box into the boot to get it out of the way in the engine bay. The intention is to get rid of the old spaghetti and make it all nice and tidy (and easy to work on)
I should have it running again in a few weeks hopefully

Mr Glengineering.
Please visit my other forums - 
www.celica.org.au
www.classic-ford.org
 
 
My build thread - https://www.mr2australia..m/mr2play/FindPost/47893
#95
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Re:The MR2 Australia SW20 2012/05/08 22:35:40 (permalink)
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Nice, clearing everything out helps a lot when your pulling engines in and out on a regular basis.
I removed my engine last week. It took about 3-4hrs which Im happy with but would be pretty good if you could get it down to 2hrs.
 What about quick release lines? 
We should work on a Christmas track day. Everyone should be sorted by then. 
 
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Re:The MR2 Australia SW20 2012/05/08 22:36:27 (permalink)
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Sure

Mr Glengineering.
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Re:The MR2 Australia SW20 2012/07/07 17:49:29 (permalink)
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UPDATE - I tried to start the engine a couple of weeks ago and found that the injectors had seized. I assume this was caused by them lying around dry after having E85 in them. I sent them back to the states where they cleaned them for me for free and I put them back into the car today and it started right away.
I have given up on E85 - it causes too many issues. I want my car to be reliable so I can drive it and enjoy it. It has spent far too much time sitting in the garage.
The only thing wrong with the engine now is that there is an oil leak from the hose that goes to the oil pressure gauge. I'll be going to the shops tomorrow to buy an electronic one. The ones with the hoses are s h i t.
I'm happy to have it going again. I'm still waiting for my new front ball joints to arrive and when the front end is back together, I'll be off for a wheel alignment and then a dyno tune and then I'll be ready for the track again. Yay!
 

Mr Glengineering.
Please visit my other forums - 
www.celica.org.au
www.classic-ford.org
 
 
My build thread - https://www.mr2australia..m/mr2play/FindPost/47893
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Re:The MR2 Australia SW20 2012/07/07 17:54:15 (permalink)
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Here's a pic of the tidy engine bay

No more crappy wiring.
During the rewiring, I found that one of the relays didn't do anything at all! Damn that previous owner!
I also had an issue with one of the cheap Chinese relays and I replaced it with a Bosch one. It really does pay to use good quality components.
post edited by Admin - 2013/12/25 17:36:16

Mr Glengineering.
Please visit my other forums - 
www.celica.org.au
www.classic-ford.org
 
 
My build thread - https://www.mr2australia..m/mr2play/FindPost/47893
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Re:The MR2 Australia SW20 2012/07/07 17:59:40 (permalink)
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How long were the injectors left out?
Can you post pics of the intercooler setup in the boot
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Re:The MR2 Australia SW20 2012/07/07 18:13:05 (permalink)
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They were out for around 6 months



Mr Glengineering.
Please visit my other forums - 
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www.classic-ford.org
 
 
My build thread - https://www.mr2australia..m/mr2play/FindPost/47893
stuka
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Re:The MR2 Australia SW20 2012/07/07 18:57:33 (permalink)
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can you explain the reasons why you have given up on E85, besides the injector issue?
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Re:The MR2 Australia SW20 2012/07/07 20:29:42 (permalink)
+1 (1)
The first time I had a problem was when I was using Methyl Benzene as an octane booster. It disintegrated the short hose inside the fuel tank that is between the pump and the metal pipe. I had to take the tank out to replace it.
At that stage I thought that the hose was just old and didn't know that it was the methyl benzene that had caused it.
I then changed to E85 and I did know about how it disintegrates rubber so I replaced all the fuel lines and modded the car so I could get to the fuel pump without taking the tank out. See photos previously in this thread.
This was all a lot of effort.
As part of the upgrade to E85, I bought new 1000cc injectors and during the engine rebuild, they sat around in the garage and seized completely.
It was at that stage that I said enough is enough. I need the car to be reliable.
If you have a look on Google, you will see lots of stories like this about E85.
It is also absorbs water from the air (makes it go off quickly) and is more corrosive to metals than water.
That's why I've given up on it. I have spent a lot of time and money due to E85 and all I got was a broken car. 

Mr Glengineering.
Please visit my other forums - 
www.celica.org.au
www.classic-ford.org
 
 
My build thread - https://www.mr2australia..m/mr2play/FindPost/47893
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Re:The MR2 Australia SW20 2012/07/08 13:38:24 (permalink)
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Good to see someone has seen the light. I looked at it some time back seeing plenty of headaches which is why Im going with race fuel. Same performance gain but improved fuel economy, less management hassles but with trac only cars it pays to remove fuel after you day out to reduce issues. If your keen on buying fuel in bulk we could put something together to save us both some money.
How much to do the water to air ic?
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Re:The MR2 Australia SW20 2012/07/08 13:53:14 (permalink)
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Yeah its fine for race cars like the v8 supercars, everything is striped apart, replaced alot, and raced alot, cars like ours, will sit around for months, even years, as you said if sitting for a long time best to drain the fuel out, but if it was e85 i would drain and then flush with normal petrol, easy for a street/club track day car, use the e85 then when low put 98 back in, but when your flushing out fuel on a race car and you have many pumps, surge tanks, dead headed fuel rails ect, it gets messier to flush it all out.
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