pictures tell a thousand words :




that was all the rust flakes that came out of it





wow! inside the fuel tank



fuel pump holder and sender cleaned up .

believe it guys .. this stuff really works .. i didnt scrubs the fuel tank at all . just left it to soak and then rinsed with the hose... and FP holder and sender i quickly scrubbed with an old tooth brush ... good new the fuel gauge sender now works .. woaho ...

new fuel pump







(dont use a hose clamp .. it doesn't fit the hole with it .. USE A CABLE TIE )

OK IT GETS BETTER .. so everything went pretty smooth ..Friday night the fuel pump got installed .. fuel tank went back up and i put in 15ltrs of fresh 98. went to crank it and it cranked but still no fuel pressure .. ???? WAT , WHY .... OMFG!!!! it was too late so i called it quits (b4 i did something stupid) ... so Saturday morning i woke up nice an early .. pulled the main fuel line that goes to the fuel filter just to check if it was the old fuel filter that was blocked and still nothing. checked the fuse , connected B+ and Fp inside the diagnostic box and still nothing. got the test light out and tested for direct power at the fuel power.. still nothing.

now at this point i started feeling sick in the gut like when you know that either A/ you forgot to do something so the fuel tank needs to come back down or B/ you just got jeped and bought a dogey fuel pump .

installing an empty fuel tank is ok beacuse the tank weighs f all and 1 person can easily do it on his own .. but a fuel tank with 15L of petrol .. yeah wasnt fun ... now i like the reverse missionary position but this wasnt fun ... so anyways it turns out that stupid me and for anybody with an eagle eye will see it in the photo of the new fuel pump. that the plug connecting the fuel pump .. i pushed it in but i didnt get it to "CLICK" .. so make sure you here a click before you put it in the tank .
with that done i had fuel pressure .. yay !!!...

only thing left was to finally start her up ... installed the battery .. installed the intercooler and installed a new fuel fiter just for good measures went to crank , idle and then would instantly die... checked timing , checked tps , everything seemed ok .. spent all of rest of Saturday afternoon trying and i finally sucking in my ego .. realizing that setting the timing on the adub by your self takes a very long time and is almost impossible .. so got a good mate to come over to help me out.

Now 2 brains is always better then 1 .. or maybe in my case a fresh brain is always better then an old one .. and that was my case.. he came over and i showed him what the car was doing .. we opened the adub work shop manual timed it as per the manual and he instantly noticed that my inter cooler pipes were loose and was causing a vacuum leak .. .DOH!!! that was the problem the whole time .. so after tighting them up

this happened :

so thing to note :
-molasses is good for rust removal
-listen for the "click" when installing a walbro fuel pump
-15L of petrol in a fuel tank is not a fun replacement for the GF
-vaccum leaks dont always have to be from tiny blue vacuum lines
- intercooler pipes need to be tightened .

thanks heaps man . means alot aye ... i just cant wait to drive it ...


note: in the clip its hunting a little because of air in the cooling system . but ive sorted that our on sunday .. so its all good ..

so thats a big tick off my list .. engine starts ... now onto the brakes and the rusty front bar ...

stay tuned for this :

hey b24

thanks for the kind comments . your car is just as impressive . quick question what are your thoughts about a aw11 archiving a 1.02 down at wakefield??? (its a long term goal i want to archive) i know any car with enough money can be fast .. but there's a certain civic that i want to beat (friendly rivalry) that was also built a backyard.

thanks for the kind comments and advice definitely taken it on board . Its re-assuring and motivating because what you have said is exactly the direction im trying to go.

and yeah ive seen that mr2 on my105. i was considering it but because it space framed its really outside what i want to achieve . (its sort of cheating ).

thanks again B24

like i said .. i put an order in for a complete rebuild kits from the Canada .. cause Toyota AUS wanted to charge me a arm and leg for 1 seal kit. Order braided lines from the States and only thing left is clutch line.

the caliper looked pretty good .. seals and everything looked ok







off came the seal , then a "simple" anti-clock wise twist and the piston came out and .......



OMG!!!! what the???





so this weekend i'll be re-building the brakes ..






my advice to anybody with a car that has more then 180,000km is to re-build your brakes.

stay tuned for more pics.

There's a little spring clip holding the line in too isn't there?
But apart from that I think you can simply unbolt it yes.

thats all i took .... until i got over it ...

on the look out for some new axles or going to get these ones rebuilt.

If you ever need a new outer CV, i bought this one off ebay. It was in great nick, came with a boot (and some grease which i just used for extra packing at the shaft end of the boot), and for some strange reason arrived at my door the next day! :p

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Toyota-Celica-ST185-GT4-4WD-CV-Joint-/280626204838?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4156a010a6

Muuuuch cheaper than tracking down some sc axles!