AdrianS
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quote:
Originally posted by Senol
Ill mention that to him too. Thanks for the tip. But it really does feel like a syncro problem.
It probably is a synchro, but that's what I thought with mine:) Worn selector fork feels exactly like a worn synchro, because it has the same effect - it dousn't push the synchro ring hasd enouch to spin up the driven gear.
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Senol
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Yes that makes a lot of sence. I'll report back once I find out if the guy will fix it under warranty or not. He really should, its a week old... and theres no excuse he had it apart to put the quaife in and i specifically told him to inspect/replace anything that needed doing.
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Reddtarga
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quote:
Originally posted by chunkmo
+1 on oil.
I just changed from Penrite hypoid 80w90 to Redline Lightweight Shockproof... Such a difference. I'd crunch going into 2nd and 3rd with Penrite but now i only get a slight notch going into 2nd. After 2,000km on it i'm thinking the shifting is getting a bit smoother too. Its fracking expensive, but worth it imo.
Penrite Hypoid 80w90 is a GL5 oil Penrite Manual Gear Oil 75 is a GL4 and would have been the one to use, cheap too.
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MRTurbo
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I just put in NULON SAE80 Smooth Shift Manual gearbox and transaxle oil over the weekend. Is an extreme pressure API GL-4 hypoid gear oil that provides smoother shifting in cold temperatures, helps reduce gearbox noise and controls idle rattle at higher operating temperatures. Nulon SAE 80 Smooth Shift is recommended as an alternative where DEXRON® III is required.It made a HUGE difference to the shift quality from cold and especially third gear. I can shift with basically one finger now - Very happy! 
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Senol
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All syncros are being replaced under warranty.
He was understanding because of the labour involved in removing the gearbox from the car and also the refitment. I'm currently still driving it around till there is a hoist free.
I changed the oil on saturday hoping it would solve the problem but it didnt, It has Penrite Manual Gear Oil 75.
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chunkmo
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Senol
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quote:
Originally posted by chunkmo
quote:
Originally posted by Reddtarga
Penrite Hypoid 80w90 is a GL5 oil
Penrite Manual Gear Oil 75 is a GL4 and would have been the one to use, cheap too.
I'm curious as to why you recommend the penrite gear oil 75? The BGB states it should be a GL5 80w90 oil: http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/volume1/maintenance/Manual_026_0001.jpg
Senol: Glad to hear it got replaced under warranty :)
Yes I'm glad too, just need to remove the gearbox and give it back to him now. hopefully sometime this week.
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Reddtarga
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quote:
Originally posted by chunkmo
quote:
Originally posted by Reddtarga
Penrite Hypoid 80w90 is a GL5 oil
Penrite Manual Gear Oil 75 is a GL4 and would have been the one to use, cheap too.
I'm curious as to why you recommend the penrite gear oil 75? The BGB states it should be a GL5 80w90 oil: http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/volume1/maintenance/Manual_026_0001.jpg
I recomended Penrite Manual Gear Oil 75 because I have used it for a lot of k's and have found it works great with easy shifting either hot or cold. Check out: http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf Also check out the tech article on Road And Track's website.(Look under Technical information E code gearbox)
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Duo-Moo-o
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Hey guys I've been test driving a few SW20's lately, and come across one with a very similar issue, with shifts into third being a bit notchy, and some friction being felt to get it into gear, there's not a huge amount of grinding or loud/long noises but it is noticeable. The seller assures me it's been like that for a long time (or since he's owned the car) but I was surprised to see he had the same issue when shifting. Sometimes it does not happen every time, but it's obviously there. So I'm suspecting it's the common 3rd gear synchro issue too.
Could someone advise a ballpark figure how much it would cost to fix an issue like this? Also what other damage could this be causing if he has been driving with this issue over the years?
To be honest it puts me off the car, as I'm not looking to pay out on anything soon, but may be a factor in the haggling process should I not find another suitable car.
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Reddtarga
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Duo-Moo-o
Hey guys I've been test driving a few SW20's lately, and come across one with a very similar issue, with shifts into third being a bit notchy, and some friction being felt to get it into gear, there's not a huge amount of grinding or loud/long noises but it is noticeable. The seller assures me it's been like that for a long time (or since he's owned the car) but I was surprised to see he had the same issue when shifting. Sometimes it does not happen every time, but it's obviously there. So I'm suspecting it's the common 3rd gear synchro issue too.
Could someone advise a ballpark figure how much it would cost to fix an issue like this? Also what other damage could this be causing if he has been driving with this issue over the years?
To be honest it puts me off the car, as I'm not looking to pay out on anything soon, but may be a factor in the haggling process should I not find another suitable car.
My NA does something similar, being a bit harder to select 3rd when changing up from 2nd. Has been the much same for the last 70k kms, but not really a problem and synchros seem fine. This gearshift movement will always be stiffer because both shifter cables have to activate for this change (twice the friction) compared to say going from 1st to second when only one shifter cable is used.
post edited by Reddtarga - 2011/10/04 12:23:37
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Duo-Moo-o
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Cheers Red, this did seem to be some sort of fault though, rather than a stiffer shift. Its like there is a definite friction as you move the gear stick toward third, before the shift has fully moved into gear. Slower shifts seemed to help, but not always, and it quickly became annoying as if if third gear just didn't want to engage for a split second.
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tuban
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Hi, my third gear synchro is a problem and I'm trying to decide on options. It's fine for me most of the time as I double-clutch down shifting and I'm pretty good with timing upshift but I hate hearing others try to drive it.
What sort of cost do people see to get the box removed and dismantled and synchro rings replaced. I have the second & third gear synchro rings but I've heard that you may as well fix other stuff if you have it all open.
My japanese import car has nominally 189,000km on the clock. Does this sound right to see this sort of transmission issue at this km or might the odo have been "adjusted"?
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Guest
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Same issue with my mr2 - shifting into third (skip the gear whenever possible) .... I was expecting mega $$$$ to get it fixed so have done nothing about it .... anyone with previous experience getting there gearbox done and happy to share places of recommendation and guide on costs ...
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MR2QIK
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If in Sydney, Gearbox Express in Ingleburn. They've done plenty of them. NA & earlier model turbo boxes are generally cheaper to rebuild. Expect between $1500 to $3000 including labour for a transmission rebuild. The higher amount is for the Gen3 LSD turbo boxes.
As for the gear oil, the service guides changed a few times over the years. From ATF Dextron3, GL4 75w90 to GL5 80w90. I've tried just about everything over the years & GL4 75w90 is perfect. To prolong a rebuild (ie synchros are bad/notchy), I've found ATF Dextron3 to be good. Longevity of the box depends on treatment & correct lubrication.
MR2QIK - "The Little Car That Could"  320rwkw @ 19psi (pump fuel, no giggle gas) 11.96 @ 116mph (with 228rwkw)
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MR PLOW
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Hey Tuban, I paid $1,000 for mine to come out, apart and back in (you know where, Sydney Nthn Beaches), plus $300 for synchros 2,3 & 4 (via amayama). Unfortunately it took a few tries to get the clutch bled properly. Shifts very nicely now. If I was going to do anything differently, I'd have gotten the spherical bushes first time around (done now), and a bearing replacement for the square bush (like this http://twosrus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_35&products_id=950)
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