Scored a nice little bargain on Ebay today

6x 1MZ-FE Coil on Plug units for US$26!
Hello sequential ignition

I should have made a fair bit more progress by now, but work has unfortunately hampered my schedule by limiting the amount of time off I can have between projects (We've just opened 3 new branches in QLD/NSW in the last 6 months.) However, I'm taking the week off between Xmas and New years to try to get the motor mounted in the car and most of the fabrication crap done. Then will schedule in another weeks annual leave after that to focus on getting it all wired up and running .

The coils were a bargain, couldn't really pass up on them. Did discover a cheap source of 3MZFE pencil styled COP's not long after [:P]

I'm not even wasting my time with a stock ecu [:P]
It's MS3X or nothing!

I will be doing a stock exhaust VS custom exhaust comparison in the future though.
I have a stock camry y-pipe (of epic restriction) and a stock SW20T exhaust which I will then replace with these:

Equal length headers


and

2.5" exhaust with twin center exit design


But I'll worry about all that sh*t after it's in the car an running a few months

Well, finally found out what was causing the binding when I torqued all the gearbox case bolts up!
It wasn't until I removed the crown wheel that I could actually see it!


I scrubbed a marker over the area, dropped the lsd back in and gave it a few spins to see where the rubbing was


Due to it being after 8pm, I couldn't use the grinder, so I dug out the ba$1ard file and removed around 2mm off the casing and then smoothed it up a bit with a flap sander disc (I've no sand paper [:P])


Now it clears with around 1mm of clearance.


Just cleaning up the gasket surfaces at the moment so I can put some sealant on it and put the box back together!
Might even get it mounted onto the V6 tomorrow night

quote:

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Originally posted by Senol

I hope that doesn't decrease the structural integrity of that gearbox casing :P

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Worse case (no puns), I could weld some plating on the other side in the clutch area of the bell housing to add some of the strength back.
It wasn't a large amount of metal required to be removed, so I'm confident it should hold up.

Hmm... Could always look into a CNC billet gearbox casing made on a 5-axis CNC machine [88]

Forgot to post this earlier, but my fuel pressure regulator arrived today.
It's a fully sik drift spec y0 regulator from fleebay I picked up for $89.

It's a SARD ripoff, and the quality on the outside doesn't look to bad at all.

And for the finale, I finished the gearbox.

I only have one left over bolt after the whole thing, but I have a feeling it actually belongs to my gear puller...

With Lakeside coming up this weekend, I've done a bit of prep work to the AW11.
I pinched the nice 15x7" rims, air scoop and rear strut brace from the MZW11 and bolt them onto the AW11.
Just need to get my KU36's onto the rims, put my harness back in and get a track wheel alignment done.




The engine cover doesn't close with the strut brace, it's definately made with the supercharger engine cover in mind. So to stop it banging on the brace, I ziptied some foam to the brace. Going to put a fishing trace on the latch to keep it down at high speeds.


The lasts few weeks my temp gauge has been really flakey, some days it works, other days it doesn't. It's flakey behavior is not what I want for a track day, so I went and bought a digital gauge from supercheap.

Cost me around $120 all up, it was easy to install and it works.