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Helpful ReplyKnightrous' House of AW11 (and SW20, and ZZW30)

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Knightrous
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Knightrous
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RE: Knightrous' MZW11 & AW11 2015/02/25 00:40:39 (permalink)
+2 (2)
Back to Toyota's...
Bit more tinkering on the twinscrew tonight in an attempt to bed down on how it's going back together for Nationals. Finished a half assed mount for the supercharger top. Needs some plate welded onto the angle to reach the remaining 3 holes, however I might just make this part out of some 150x100x10 steel instead as it's easy to source and I can weld/cut it with ease.


I rotated the position of the bypass valve to provide more space on the head side for the intake manifold.


Some kind of intake manifold to be made in here. Will probably be ****, but I just want to get this running ASAP and it can't be any worse then the stock setup.


Lower supercharger mount modified to suit new position.


Quick layout of the belt position, however I might need to add an idler between the supercharger and water pump to provide more belt wrap between the two. Also added the oil return hose, just need to weld in a AN-10 fitting into the sump to accept it.


Oil feed for the supercharger, need to get a hose made up to this then plumb it into a spare port on the thermostatic oil cooler plate.


Fitted aforementioned thermostatic oil cooler plate.


Need to do a quick test fit into the engine bay tomorrow to see how everything sits and where I will locate the W2A core.

Knightrous
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RE: Knightrous' MZW11 & AW11 2015/03/08 23:56:35 (permalink)
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Another quick update.
Started making Sh!tManifold v1.0 to get this show on the road.
 
Bought a $30 vice from Bunnings and taped some random bits of alloy to it to make it into a pipe crushing machine.

 
Bought some 3" aluminium tubing and crushed it over a 36mm pine plug to form the plenum chamber.

 
Brings it down to below the 45mm gap I have between the chopped 4AGZE manifold and the twinscrew unit.

 
A quick dummy fit shows it will do the job.

 
Quick dummy up of the intercooler placement and intake pipe paths.

 
Had a friend weld some plate to the chopped 4AGZE manifold. Each hole is for the cylinder runners and needs ported out to suit.

 
First port roughed out.

 
Few lumpy bits to smooth out.

 
It's nothing special, but it will work.

 
I'm working with minimal tools at the moment, just a rotary file bit in my dewalt drill

 
The plate welded to the manifold will be trimmed to size once the porting has been completed.

 
Then a section of the plenum will be removed to match the trimmed plate on the manifold.

 
Then the two halves will be welded together forming a sealed manifold/plenum.

 
Quick fitment to the motor to have a look.

 
Add the plenum.

 
Another angle.

 
Till next time...

5SGTE
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RE: Knightrous' MZW11 & AW11 2015/03/10 08:33:34 (permalink)
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Wtf happen to your drill?
Knightrous
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RE: Knightrous' MZW11 & AW11 2015/03/10 08:38:26 (permalink)
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It's a 10+year old 2 speed Dewalt that I picked up at a yard sale for $5. Battery was knackered and I have oodles of Lithium Polymer batteries laying around, so I converted it to run off them. Normally the battery is ziptied to the base of the drill to make it mobile, but I had just swapped batteries and hadn't put it back on :P
Knightrous
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RE: Knightrous' MZW11 & AW11 2015/03/15 16:49:20 (permalink)
+1 (1)
More tinkering.
 
Roughed out the intake ports, just need to tidy it all up now with the dremel.

 
Had to chop some clearance out of the supercharger mount.

 
Plenty of room to access for the bolts on the manifold. Same from the top once the fuel rail is removed.

 
It's all fits, but is still tight.

 
Time to test fit it in the engine bay

 
Supercharger fits with a lot more room.

 
Pulley clears with 40-50mm now

 
Outlet pipe clears with a good 30-40mm of space, I could possible even remake it as a 2.5" outlet

 
Looking at options on setting up the W2A

 
Intercooler outlet to intake manifold has a real nasty S bend to fit.

 
However, this might work. Pipes line up really nicely with minimal bends. Even leaves enough space for the battery to stay in the factory spot.

 
Quick belt test fit.

 
Till next time...

Knightrous
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RE: Knightrous' MZW11 & AW11 2015/03/23 17:20:50 (permalink)
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Playing with some other stuff over the weekend.
 
I picked up a dirty cheap M90 supercharger from a Ford Thunderbird which is in much nicer condition then the M90 from the L67 Commodore I picked up around xmas. It's got better mounting points, better ports and is a more compact unit. So I decided to play around with some potential fitments for the supercharger in the engine bay.
 
Mount it standing upright like the factory TRD unit. However not a lot of space to fit an sizable intercooler between the outlet and the intake.

 
Next up I tested it with the longer drive snout from the L67 M90 (TB one is just too short for this position).
There is plenty of space to build a laminova intercooler in the valley of the motor, however due to the position of the pulley directly above the engine mount, it will require a couple of idler and tensioner pullies.

 
Or it could even be mounted like this (factory Thunderbird orientation), this allows plenty of space for everything.

 
A quick dummy fit of some pipe work shows it is a good option.

 
During the weekend I helped B24 collect his 2GR from the engine builders and he offered me some spare 2GR valves to do some dummy fitting into the 1MZ heads I have sitting around. The 2GR valves are a honking big valve compared to the 1MZ.

1MZ-FE (without VVT-i)
Intake valve diameter: 34.0 mm
Exhaust valve diameter: 27.3 mm
Intake valve overall length: 95.50 mm
Exhaust valve overall length: 95.50 mm
Valve stem diameter: 5.5 mm
 
2GR-FE
Intake valve diameter: 38.0 mm
Exhaust valve diameter: 32.0 mm
Overall intake valve length: 105.85 mm
Overall exhaust valve length: 110.4 mm
Valve stem diameter: 5.5 mm
 
First think I noticed was, the two heads I have here are not a matched pair... One is a VVT head and one is not.

 

 
There is a noticeable difference in combustion chamber, valve guides and valve seats.
 


 
Plonking the valves in one head showed they were very close to touching, however they are unseated and would clear once fitted to the heads correctly. It would just be a case of ensuring the duration/overlap of the camshafts would not cause an interference.

 
Dropping them into the other head showed that due to the increased squish area, the valves will not sit without machining it back. However I reckon it can still be done.

 
One of these heads has had the intake ports ported out, so I thought I would show a quick comparison.

Stock porting, pretty rough and pretty average.

 
Ported head, cleaned up and looks the goods.

 
Gives me ideas for when I get around to porting some heads....
Knightrous
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RE: Knightrous' MZW11 & AW11 2015/04/07 14:23:28 (permalink)
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Spent the long weekend stripping down the sludge 3MZ motor. It turned out to be a mix bag.
 
The camshafts and heads are a write off, oil starvation has damaged both.

 
Pulling the head off showed the deck and head gasket were both in good condition.

 
Combustion chambers were a bit ugly, but nothing that cannot be cleaned up. Unfortunately the damage to the cam journals make these heads a write off without line boring.
 
Comparison of rods. 1MZ on the left, 3MZ in the center and 2GR on the right.

 
Block and bores were good, just a little surface rust to be cleaned out with a light hone.

 
Crank was also a write off.


 
Love them six bolt mains!

 
Pistons were pretty filthy.

 
However with some degreaser and some elbow grease, they came up pretty good.

 
With the motor torn down, it's time to start piecing together the project plans....
Knightrous
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RE: Knightrous' MZW11 & AW11 2015/04/07 14:38:30 (permalink)
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Finally bought myself a dremel on the weekend to clean up the ****ized rough job I did to form the first half of the 4AGZE intake. It took about 2 hours to run 80 and 120 grit sanding drums through the ports and it is now "good enough". The photos might look like the ports are rough, but they are smooth to touch, which is good enough for me.
 









 
Next step is to weld the plenum parts together and get it on the motor.
Knightrous
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RE: Knightrous' MZW11 & AW11 2015/04/07 14:58:08 (permalink)
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With the 3MZ finally stripped down and finally being able to look at things with first hand experience, time to put together a project plan. While the 1MZ pistons are known to fail once you start pushing pass 300RWHP, I found the specifics of this issue is generally due to the ring lands cracking at the edge of the valve fly cuts and piston crown. However now having a set of 3MZ pistons in my hands, I noticed there is nearly double the material on the crown, which means these pistons should be able to handle a bit more power before they develop the same issue (or an issue else where).

 
With the 1MZ/3MZ hybrid, the compression ratio ends up being 10.9:1 due to the 55.73cc combustion chamber volume. I want to run 9.5:1 compression as to allow a higher boost setup, which means I need to port the combustion chambers out to 65cc.  I'm looking to come up with a CNC program to machine out the required ~10cc, while making the combustion chamber more hemispherical and removing any sharp edges from the squish regions.

5SGTE
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RE: Knightrous' MZW11 & AW11 2015/04/07 19:45:22 (permalink)
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At least you've got some heads to practice on ;-)
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RE: Knightrous' MZW11 & AW11 2015/04/11 19:26:22 (permalink)
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So it begins.
 

 

 
I've never heard of the AW11 sunroofs leaking or rusting, this is probably why. They have 4 drain tubes in each corner that channel any water out of the car.

 

 
Will give all these a good scrub up and a treatment, then start transplanting them into the SlushDub to replace it's rather tattered blue interior.

 
Going to have to give this a little bit of attention soon.

post edited by Knightrous - 2015/04/11 19:39:43
rikkir
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RE: Knightrous' MZW11 & AW11 2015/04/11 19:49:27 (permalink)
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Great updates, keep them coming!
5SGTE
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RE: Knightrous' MZW11 & AW11 2015/04/12 22:02:50 (permalink)
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Guess you've found where the sunroof water is drained to ;-)
Knightrous
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RE: Knightrous' MZW11 & AW11 2015/04/13 09:46:02 (permalink)
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5SGTE
Guess you've found where the sunroof water is drained to ;-)

I believe the rust forms due to leaf litter and dirt wedging between the body and guard.
The sunroof drains are probably just adding to it :P
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