Interested to here the outcome. Dropping 40deg = how much hp gain?

Consistent air temps are worth the cost, tho i dont think you need the big 1200hp core.

dasic1
Going to W2A was the best thing I've done
 

Mrskylighter
 
 
When i had a stock motor with a Greddy T67 hanging off the side running a Power FC, Pump, injectors, exhaust etc I used a Greddy copy intercooler with the metal shroud/plate to seal it to the air vent and a fan shroud with an ATS 8 or 9in fan on the engine side of the intercooler. Also custom heat shielding on the tubular Greddy manifold.
On the dyno it got up to just under 250RWKW but was heat soaking pretty bad. They were letting it cool down for a while and then going again. Eventually the engine broke (3 of 4 pistons) which could be down to the hot intake air and the tuner struggling with this. It was a mad turbo though, came on boost like a maniac. Yep still drove it for a whole with broken piston ring lands.
 
 

With the help of W2A (Frozen boost's type 5 intercooler and Type 100 heat exchanger) this turbo is now making 385rwkw
 

On a 3sgte? It must come onto boost extremely hard and scare the crap out of passengers haha

dylmrt
Its really all about airflow. I ran a sidemount and had the same issues on a dyno, but at the track on a hot summer's day, it never really went past 25-35 degress above ambient.

I now have a border top mount and on the freeway (haven't tracked it for ages now) its at the 45-55 deg mark in summer, so its now only 15-25 degress above ambient. But if I sit on a dyno, then yes, we're talking major heatsoak issues, because the airflow just isn't enough on the dyno.
 
IF reliability is your goal then yes, W2A/Meth injection will help reduce knock from overly high intake temps. But so will not boosting it like crazy when its already running really hot ;)

 
That's interesting to know. I think I'll take the car for long drive and log what temperatures I'm seeing with proper airflow. Then log the temps again after I add things like engine lid fans etc. 
 

just_ace
Consistent air temps are worth the cost, tho i dont think you need the big 1200hp core.

I didnt think so either. I was looking more towards the 600hp kit (Type 3 core with a Type 1 heat exchanger).
But Mark at MRC doesnt think it will do the job as with Robk's car; before he went for big power had issues with the 600hp kit keeping consistently cool and the 1200hp kit sorted it out. 
 

MCT_MR2
But the main thing is consistancy. A car that can keep its intake temps under control, allows a tuner to work out an accurate safety margin. Also intake manifold gaskets last longer, your intake valves, valve stem seals etc all last a lot longer.

But deco, 95c is a massive number. My efr 6258 heats the air up to 135c @ 20psi, but that is with the air temp sensor in the outlet pipe pre intercooler.

That's it. My temp sensor has been mounted in the throttle body, so the temp the engine is seeing is far from ideal. Its fine for now as the engine has been tuned with this flaw in mind and as long as I don't go abusing it at the same time. In saying that its definitely something I would like sorted out sooner than later.