SW20 E153 Gearbox Synchros

I suspect this may be a hot topic that I've failed to find in other threads but I couldn't find any information elsewhere.
 
My E153 Gearbox has difficulty selecting 2nd gear. The problem is only on 2nd gear and basically I have to wait 1 second with the gearbox in neutral before selecting 2nd. Anything less than a 1 second wait and the box will crunch till the second has elapsed then go into gear. Going from a higher gear to 2nd is much easier and can go in if I match the revs via heel and toe downshift.

I have heard that Toyota made stronger Synchros for these gearbox's but haven't found any definite part numbers. I was wondering if anyone on here may spare some information as to the part numbers for the stronger synchros and any other parts I should also consider while the gearbox is out. A suggestion for oil would also be great. I've read so far on these forums that the GL4 oil is the way to go. Note I want to avoid Redline Shockproof like the plague, too many people have said its a bandaid oil that makes a car feel nice but also takes away from its longevity.

Any information is greatly appreciated.

Many write ups out there on helping gearbox issues.  
Helping the feel / selecting - write up below and many more on the net;
http://www.mr2australia.com/bettergearshiftfeelforsw20in3parts.pdf
As per part two, the bearings was the best replacement, cheap and fixed my dead bushings.
 
Gearbox oil type and correct amount helps.  MR2 guys have also sworn by Royal Purple product.
 
I feel a better selection when after done the above write up and installed a short shifter (others all have there opinions but it helped me). However it wont fix worn syncros (very common in MR2 age).
 
Because of the age you may need new syncros / gearbox rebuild. Order parts from amayama (syncros bearings) then have a gearbox shop rebuild (about $2000-$5000 depending on how and what you do).

I appreciate the info. It's been a while and I've found a couple of things. Number one I definately have an open diff box, despite it leaving twin marks on the grass that I did the slip test on but all other indications prove open diff e.g. jack the car up and spin the wheel look for the other one and just general feel on the road would all lead to the conclusion that the car is open diff, not necessarily a bad thing still handles like its on rails but I'll upgrade later. 

Secondly after I replaced the clutch master and slave and bled it properly the clutch now feels a lot stiffer and also seems to have fixed the problem of having to wait a year in going from 1st to 2nd. There is still a crunch if you really snap second but it'll go in and you could do a smoking start if I wasn't kind to the box. But you can still tell that the synchro is worn.  

I've spoken to people about the redline oil and they all say that while its a band-aid oil it'll solve the synchro problem. I might price it up against royal purple which I know is nectar of the gods. I'm just weighing up keeping the box and fixing it or finding an LSD one somewhere, a few have come up for $1600 or so which isn't that expensive really. 

I will be looking to change the gearstick and bushings shortly. Thanks to the generous MrKrazyee I have a gear stick that hasn't had a hacksaw attack it. 

Speaking of correct oil, which weight should I get? 75w-90?

I am having pretty much the same problem again.  A couple of years ago someone had suggested GL4? which was put in & made a difference.
 
Nik has suggested "Smurf Blood".  Which google says is RED LINE LightWeight ShockProof™ Gear Oil 75w-90
My car was in for service last week, & I mentioned that the gears were notchy again,but I forgot to ask them to use the Smurf blood.  They put new oil in, but it hasn't made much difference.  She needs to go back this week to have dizzy o-ring replaced.  Would it be an quick easy job for them to change the oil at the same time?

It may have been covered in the above link, but check that your engine mounts are up to scratch. You may benefit from engine mount inserts too. 

I have a fully rebuilt Gen 3 Box. Its having problems shifting as the torque from the v6 is moving the motor around in the standard mounts. 

When driving normally, no problems at all. but if i am driving hard it becomes difficult to find gears

Yea the front engine mount was rooted but now its sikaflexed so its all good lol it has made a difference. 

Shaz, I've been speaking to Nik and when she says smurf blood she's referring to Superlight Shockproof not the Lightweight Shockproof as thats a GL-5 oil. I can't really find the GL rating for the Superlight Shockproof to be honest which is kind of strange. Although I have found that the MT90 is a GL-4 and is probably why some of the members in this thread are running it. 
 
Okay because of our stupidly large capacity I worked out pricing for 5 litres:
Superlight: $194.34
MT90: $175.60
Royal Purple Max Gear: $221.99

Might leave this here to get people's opinions now that cost is a factor haha.

Yea quality comes at a price. Happily for you, you only need to purchase 4 litres. The install is actually really easy I have a pump so just let me know and I'll come around and do it for you or my mobile mechanic will charge $25 to replace fluid.