Are you planning to install yourself?

Well there has been a spanner in the works, on Monday night the car made some god awful noises and I now know this was the drivers side front sway bar mount ripping itself from the chassis. It probably didn't help that I installed brand new end links and did old pac twice on the weekend. Noise got progressively worse over the next 4 hours so I took it to my legendary mechanic who showed me how bad it was then welded up some replacement metal and then welded in some reinforcement plates so it's much stronger now than it would be with the plates that I would have got if DeltaV didn't run out of stock.
 
Drivers side:

 
Passenger side:

 
Replacement metal bar (very thick):

 
Reinforcement bar:

 
All bolted up:

Yep the mortified look on my face when they got it on the hoist was well justified. You can't really see the replacement metal because its inside the chassis hole but we managed to cut the bar and weld the thread points onto it then weld the bar inside. Such an awesome job considering the problem. Car feels so much better now and sounds like it should. Can't thank my mech enough for doing it on such short notice. 

Good to see it made a difference for you, I really should get the EBC I have sitting in my parts tub installed and mapped as well.
Who did you use to install and map yours?

One of the first mods I plan on doing is an EBC as well. Just hoping to crank up the horsies while also letting me manage how much boost I'm actually running also

Matts_SW20
Well sadly I found out today its not all fun and games with the stock ECU, a few times this morning while only hitting 7psi I got boost cut and car wouldn't let me build any boost until I pulled over and turned the engine off. The ECU is not used to all this extra air and is seeing it as running too lean probably causing it to issue a boost cut. The only real solution is to go new ECU which will be an after christmas thing.
 
However coming home from Toyotafest I got up to 12psi and it was just fine. I suspect that if I hold it at 12psi it would boost cut but worked fine on the way home,very weird. Toyotafest pics to come. 

Maybe I'm not understanding the situation very well, but I'm surprised it's running lean.. didn't the tuner say the AFR was solid?

Very very sad news, the car has died (temporarily) at the worst possible time. The other day I had a job interview in Sydney, I took the MR2 down and noticed that uphills and under load the car really struggled to build speed despite 10psi on the turbo. It was difficult getting from 100 to 110kmph. This was due to the timing being out. Shortly after the 2nd hill at Mooney Mooney I noticed the temperature gauge climb very quickly. Before it hit the red zone I pulled over and turned the engine off and noticed a cloud of steam escaping from the engine lid. I was stranded in my suit with no idea what has happened.
 

 
I waited for it to cool then babied it to a rest stop and never drove the car in the red zone. At the rest stop I opened the radiator cap and there was nothing in there. Just steam pouring out. I waited for a little bit but being under the pressure to get to the interview I started pouring some water into the car, only to find out it was all coming out from somewhere (later found out to be the water pump, which was supposed to be brand new with the engine) on the other side of the car. I had to keep going and decided to take the berowra turn off and pulled over again because it was getting hot and filled up with more water. The car was struggling to turn back on but it did, made it to the train station and navigating the paring lot the car stalled 3 times and did not want to turn back on and wouldn't survive at low revs. Pulled into a disabled parking space and left a plea of mercy if an inspector came past and got on the train to the CBD. Organised to get it on a trailer home and moving it onto the trailer it would work but sounded very bad and didn't want to tick over.
 
 
 
I got the trailer out the front of my property access and drove the car to the garage and the car stalled and I just rolled it into the shed with the momentum.
 
Invited my mechanic mate over the next day to help diagnose. We did a compression test and got 0psi in cylinders 2-4 and 30psi in cylinder 1, fearing the worst We took the timing belt cover off and found the problem. The water pump had collapsed on the F3 which caused the water to all come gushing out which caused the overheat. The collapse of the pump  meant the timing belt lost tension and probably skipped a notch or two which caused the loss in power. The actual cover of the timing belt was all that was keeping it on the engine. When it stalled driving into my shed that was the last cough, the water pump pulley acted like a knife on the remains of the belt and just took all the teeth off it so the pistons would move but the camshaft would not. Thankfully these are non-interference engines. Checked the pistons all reached TDC and BDC properly and they did so thats a plus but aside from that its still very much dead. I hope that with a new belt and pump it lives to see another day. Lets all pray that the head/engine hasn't warped or cracked and hope that the head gasket is fine.