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Helpful ReplyHot!Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder and 2002 2ZZ Spyder

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seasalt
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Retro-fitting Air-con 2017/09/12 20:12:18 (permalink)
+2 (2)
My 2002 is the only Spyder I know of without air-con. This is brutal in summer.
 
Managed to source the air-con from another Spyder-man and have begun to install it, starting with the evaporator unit under the dash, behind the glovebox. Glovebox was easy, just open it and pull down. It unclips from a horizontal bar. The factory manual tells you to CUT this bar.
 

Yep, a left-hand drive pic, but our spiders are a mirror image here. See that there is even a Toyota part to replace what you've cut out. Toyota dealer couldn't find it listed anywhere.
 
 
 

I cut this out, and thought afterwards (of course) I should have cut further toward centre to keep the reinforcing rib.
 

 
That rib in the end of the bit I cut out - feel like I should have left it behind. Instead of cutting where it looked like I should cut, 5mm further, and maybe file back after. Even so the result seems strong enough.
 

 
There's the remains after cut out, and here's what came out, and what's going in. That wire left dangling, that attaches to the front of the evap box by a couple of clips that are part of the box. I also undid the two bolts holding the top facia that are hidden when the door is closed, and the one on the RHS of the glovebox, just for more wriggle room, but it was not so hard once the nuts and bolts were off. The top nut is a little awkward but doable.
 



 
One empty, one full. Juggled the "full" one into the space - remember to line up the outlets and drain tube..
I expected it to be the hardest part to get in, but it wriggled in just fine. Did all the nuts and bolts up and it seems fine.
 

I just bent a flat piece of 2mm alloy along its length, less than a right angle, to make it at least a bit rigid, and drilled holes where needed. 

 
And the sun set.
 
Everything else should be even more straightforward.
 
 
 

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Reddtarga
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Re: Retro-fitting Air-con 2017/09/13 09:32:46 (permalink)
+1 (1)
Congratulations on tackling this job
Let us know the final result.

1990 ADM NA
Any advice you get from me may only be worth what you paid for it.
 
 
 
 
 
seasalt
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Re: Retro-fitting Air-con 2017/09/13 16:17:45 (permalink)
0
Thanks Reddtarga - will do.
 
I did find the part number for the replacement piece in the glovebox support.
5555817010 REINFORCEMENT, GLOVE COMPARTMENT DOOR
Local Toyota Dealer Spare Parts couldn't locate one, not even in Japan. There is one solitary ebay listing in Tampa, Florida for about $AU40, but I think my home-made piece will do.
 
I bought all new O-rings today, and a very helpful fellow at Technicair told me to install them coated with some light oil as a way of avoiding leaks. He said not to assemble the pipes with the O-rings "dry".

Reddtarga
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Re: Retro-fitting Air-con 2017/09/13 18:17:42 (permalink)
0
An A/C tech guy told me that the 'O' rings can also dry out and leak if the unit is not used for a long time.
So a good policy is to switch it on regularly, even in Winter just for a short while.
 
Have you worked out the electrics, and getting the motor to 'idle up' after switch on?

1990 ADM NA
Any advice you get from me may only be worth what you paid for it.
 
 
 
 
 
seasalt
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Re: Retro-fitting Air-con 2017/09/13 21:09:04 (permalink)
0
That's in the PowerFC I believe - the dyno tuner mentioned it - a virtual switch for AC/No AC ? (To increase idle when AC is on?)
 
Winter here is hardly worthy of the name.
seasalt
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Re: Retro-fitting Air-con 2017/09/14 13:57:49 (permalink)
0
Put the pipes on as far as the front bulkhead. First section tucks around the fuel tank. Only the plastic shroud needs to come off. Otherwise it can just be put in place.
 


 
The next section, that four bolt brace needs to come off, and take the two rearmost 17mm bolts out of the front under-brace to drop it down a bit. Once that's done the next section can slip into place. I replaced all O-rings with new ones, and lightly coated them with air-con oil, like the Technicair guy recommended.
 
 

 
Got the ends covered to keep crap out.
 
 
 
Just waiting for the condensor now, and I can finish up installation by installing that with tubes 9, 10, and 6 - and then take it to Technicair to evacuate, gas up and test.
 
LHD pic. Everything in cabin and forward is reversed.
 
 

 
post edited by seasalt - 2017/09/19 16:43:17

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seasalt
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Re: Retro-fitting Air-con 2017/09/19 16:01:48 (permalink)
+1 (1)
The front pipes were the most difficult. (Murphy's Law). Getting the two to the condensor from the front of the "under-tunnel" was not easy. One of those chinese ring puzzles, twisting and turning to find the path. The large pipe found me taking the RH front wheel off, the plastic shrouding forward of the wheel, disconnecting a few elecrical plugs and undoing the solid radiator pipe brackets before it went into place from the wheel well. No way could it be got in place from in the frunk..
 
From here - (Yes, I have an extra diagonal brace there.)
 

 
To here -
 

 
 So now, get the condensor in. I bought a new moisture filter from Technicair. They said to put it and the condensor in the car last. Booked in to get it gassed up day after tomorrow.
 
With AC as a "manufacturer option", 3 & 4 are a single pipe, as a "Dealer option" it is the two piece pipe.

 

Don't forget to bolt the solid rad tube back up before you put all the plastic shroud back.
 
EDIT 21st Septemba
Took her in to get the AC gassed.
The good news: no leaks
The bad news: flashing AC light indicating an issue. What's worse, local half holiday for a horse race. No time for troubleshooting etc, so why don't I troubleshoot it and make another appointment when sorted.
 
Sorting through it, found the magnetic clutch wasn't activating. I had no AC relay (Behind battery on firewall in a placky box) and a few fan relays missing in the frunk. That delayed the flashing light, but it did occur, after a bit longer wait. Was thinking I'd have to pull compressor. Removed emissions evap cannister to get at plugs atop compressor and spotted clutch wire hanging loose - little black plug. I must have missed it. Plugged it in. AC light stays on now. Just have to schedule another gassing time.
 
 EDIT On the 22nd Septemba got it gassed. All functioning.
post edited by seasalt - 2017/09/25 00:30:31

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seasalt
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Re: Retro-fitting Air-con 2017/11/22 20:20:47 (permalink)
0
Since fitting the AC, had a stumble/miss issue. I was kinda blaming the AC, but turns out the AC was innocent.
 
Both fuel pump and O2 sensor were faulty, and slowly getting worse. Rich down low and lean up top. AC load was enough to make it really obvious.
 
All fixed, and back on the dyno.
 

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seasalt
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Re: Retro-fitting Air-con 2018/09/12 22:13:04 (permalink)
0
Just can't help myself. 160A alternator on the way.
seasalt
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Re: Retro-fitting Air-con 2019/07/22 22:18:36 (permalink)
+1 (1)
How much can you spend while not counting:
 
2005 Corolla Sportivo 2zz with C64 box. (94,000 klm): $1500
MWR Reverse Blockout $138
MWR .725:1 Sixth gear set $308
MWR Shifter shaft for Corolla trans $182
Carbon-Lined Synchro Set - Elise Exige 2-eleven Celica Corolla Matrix C6X 6-speed $437
Box split, .725:1 top gear, 4.312 diff and LSD installed. MWR selector shaft installed. Threaded holes for shifter bracket added. MKB Automotive, Lismore: $1200
Manual gearbox linkages, clutch system and pedal installed.
All necessary parts: $1500
Solid bush shifter kits $65
MWR RH Engine mount $60
Serpentine belt $40
Lift bolts (Toyota says "Flange bolts") $10
Initially, JDM 2001 Celica ECU installed. $100
Corolla Sportivo headers modified to clear crossmember. $120
First Exhaust by Franks Mufflers, Lismore. $950
1ZZ sump with baffle installed. Spacer extends oil pickup deeper into sump.
HKS SLD (Speed Limit Defencer) 2000-2005 TOYOTA CELICA ALL (Rendered un-necessary by Power FC.)
Toyota MR2 Spyder MR-S 2000-2005 Front Bumper Midship Runabout Blue JDM Emblem
Toyota MR2 MR-S Roadster Spyder ZZW30 Blue Wheel Center Cap set Genuine OEMParts
Speed Hut 10K tachometer: $240
Convertible Top, Blue Stayfast, Glass Window - $875
Fitting - $350
Apexi PowerFC - $AU1642.00 Customs adds $326.34, hence $1968.34
RDA brakes - Slotted & Dimpled Replacement Rotors, FRONT- $220.00 Pair - REAR- $220. Pair - shipping direct $20.00 Inc Gst – $460
Callipers rebuilt, painted, new pads. Stainless braided lines - $360
Engineer approval (so third Party insurance valid) $750
Mocal Large Diameter Flush Fit Fuel Filler Cap 4 Inch Diameter With Funnel Locking - $330
CEIKA $1,275.00 USD – Coilovers: $1808.32
CEIKA Pair 4kg/mm front and Pair 6kg/mm rear springs $300
RPF1 Rims  Autotechnik $1275 + $85 delivery to 2480 - $500 deposited - $860 owing - Front: 15 x 7 +41, Rear: 16 x 7 +43, 8 week wait: $1360
RPF1, Rear: 16 x 8 +43: $775
DynoTune quote - $550 – Dean Amos – 0414560550 – 159 rwhp -  $550
89279-17010 pull badge – get two.
SECOND PHASE:
2ZZ - 9000km Celica motor and C60 transmission  $3500
PPE headers with freight: $1065
Second custom exhaust to suit PPE headers $960
MWR Reverse Blockout $138
MWR Shifter shaft for Celica trans $182
Fit above to Celica C60 trans, instal LSD $800
Another Dyno tune – 169rwhp -  $500
Leather seat re-covers $510
New dark blue facelift air scoops - side –- $132 each $264
MR-S TRD Structural under body bar and brace $650
Blue/Black steering wheel with MR-S centre $350
160 AMP ALTERNATOR TOYOTA COROLLA MATRIX CELICA MR2 1.8L High Output HD $226
Spent: $26,127.66 not counting random decals, badges, rubbers, etc.
Original Purchase price: $6000
 
Total remembered: $32,127.66
 
(Can't remember what air-con retrofit cost, or find paperwork)
post edited by seasalt - 2019/07/22 22:22:55
Carmikey
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Re: Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder and 2002 2ZZ Spyder 2019/07/23 12:34:21 (permalink)
0
Ouch!

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seasalt
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Re: Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder and 2002 2ZZ Spyder 2020/02/23 23:10:36 (permalink)
0
Sold the TTR.
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