I took the Sportivo box and a five speed to a gearbox specialist to get the .725 top gear set put in, and a 4.312 Torsen Diff. The gearbox guys got my instructions wrong. I told the boss I wanted the 4.312 diff, and if the five speed one wouldn't fit to call me 'cause I had a six speed that could be cannibalised if necessary. Went in today and the top gear is changed and the torsen diff is in but needs six speed parts to change diff. Needs the longer output shaft of the six speed. The actual gearbox mechanic said boss didn't tell him I wanted the ratio - he'd already put it all back together.
 
The list of bits I gave them is a coupla posts back.
 
Gearbox mech quite good, said toyota had bodged the 54,000k gearbox warranty repairs on the Sportivo box by crushing a race, so one bearing replaced.

Also went to pains to make sure I had manual conversion bits. That I wasn't trying to connect the SMT to it.
 
So now pulling the 1ZZ six speed out to sacrifice to the build. They're going to have to split the Sportivo box again.
 
Detail: The knock sensor - up behind inlet manifold - I have an early Celica ECU coming because of the higher rev limit (8200 vs 7800 RPM) The '02+ 2ZZ attaches to the head with a bolt and a pin so it hangs off there like a dangly bit. The 2ZZ 2000-2001 is a 1-wire straight screw in and requires a matching year 2zz ECU with the 8200rpm rev limit. My motor is a 2005 with tag type knock sensor, but on removing it, it has a fatter base thread the same as the 1 wire knock sensor, so they are interchangeable.
 
KNOCK SENSOR Torque: 39 N·m (400 kgf·cm, 29 ft·lbf)
 

 
ECU Part Numbers:
Stock '02 1ZZ Spyder : 89661-17680
'05 Corolla Sportivo : 89661-02271
 
 

 
(Part# 90105-06293, make sure they are the new TAPERED bolts)
 
 

 2zz has baffle under crank, 1zz half way into sump.
 If your pickup fouls, try http://www.spyderchat.com...1zz-oil-pan-to-fit-2zz
 Be sure to totally clean away any residues/debris/particles after as they can be engine killers.
 
Then there's that clutch template no one seems to have:
If seething with doubts, guesstimate the bottom hole closest the booster, and try your pedal from inside to see if all three bolt holes line up. If not slot the bulkhead hole to where it needs to go and do the rest from that. "template" matches raised section of bulkhead.
 

 

 

If you are lowering the oil pickup, I believe you do... ;)

That's weird. Might be more than one variation of either 2zz pick up or 1zz pans

 
I only cut a 3mm wedge out of the top side of the pipes at the manifold flange before welding back together. Now that I can assemble it I can see 5 or 6mm might have been better (more suspension cross member clearance) but this can still work. We'll just have to curve the first section up immediately. If I put a straight pipe on it just touches on the side away from the headers.

Got to doctor up an inlet and get the axles back in, fill with oils, all that. Just plugging along.

I don't think your going to have enough clearance with header to mid pipe. I did the same and angled it a bit more, even then clearance is tight. You probably already know the 1zz intake is a restriction.

 
It lives! First start today at 3:30 pm. Ran for a minute, then shut down as rad not bled and lots of details not attended to yet, but the wiring harness prepared by EssDub worked perfectly.