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Helpful ReplySeasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder (Sold) and 2002 2ZZ Spyder.

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seasalt
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Re: Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder and 2002 2ZZ Spyder 2020/08/31 23:19:33 (permalink)
+1 (1)

Mounting the mesh. Strips of 8mm alloy attached around opening, with mesh screwed to edges.
 

 
Dummy fit again.
 

 

 
Properly put back together, but yet to create the holes for tow hooks. Looking for something to use as trim for the holes..
 

 

 
I should have connected number plate lights sooner. By the time I thought of it it was quite a challenge.
 

 
And provision for the tow eyes...
post edited by seasalt - 2020/09/02 14:14:08
seasalt
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Re: Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder and 2002 2ZZ Spyder 2020/09/22 09:27:03 (permalink)
0
Just a TRD badge..almost invisible black, so a few minutes buff and cutting compound. Too much time on hands when it's stay the f' at home....
 

post edited by seasalt - 2020/09/22 09:30:09
seasalt
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Re: Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder and 2002 2ZZ Spyder 2021/06/30 06:44:35 (permalink)
+1 (1)
Body now has 202,000 km.
Motor now has 33,000 km.
 
On the blue stayfast top purchased March 2016, I guess I should have avoided leaving it outside, as the rear window glue gave up and the glass fell in earlier this year. I went to the local windscreen people (big mistake, as they had zero experience with convertibles), and the adhesive they used, same as for steel frames, gave up after a month.
 
Many YouTube how to vids later, and purchase of 3M-8609 Windo-Weld Super Fast Urethane, 08609, Black, 10.5 fl oz Cartridge, some 3M Single Step Primer 08681 125 mL 8681, and (optional) 1/10/20PCS M4 Thread 40mm Suction Cups With Knurled Nut Clear for kitchen AK.
 
To clamp the glass to the top, I cheaped out and made my own. There are clamps designed for this though.
 
I also bought a Xtorque X3125 123mm (5") 120Kg Triple Heavy Duty Glass Suction Lifter from Sydney Tools, to be sure to be sure....
 
I had to clean away the adhesive residues. Used my dremel with a fine wire wheel. I now had double trouble, as a metal reinforcer had come away from the stayfast top, and I had to glue that back before I could re-attach the glass. I used E6000 craft adhesive.
 
Once the reinforcing piece was back in, cleaned off the glass. As per YouTube instructions, bought a packet of swabs to apply the Single step Primer. They said to not redip them when they run out, but use a fresh one. The primer, apparently, makes the re-gluing more UV resistant. I did the window all the way round, and left it to dry.
 
Later, came back, and put a run of Windo-Weld all the way round and then pulled the glass up into place with ratchet straps and the Xtorque triple suction cup thingo. Then applied all my home made clamps. Left it 48 hours.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
Road testing in the rain, had one tiny leak behind driver onto the parcel tray. Got a new nozzle for the Windo-Weld, and went around the entire glass laying a tiny bead all the way around. Smoothed it with bits of clean rag dipped in mineral turpentine. The Windo-Weld is too messy to just keep using the same rag. Used multiple rags.
 
A day later, cleaned off any smears, residues, and edge excesses with an exacto blade and scalpel.
 
Not as good as a new top ($1000), but more economical.
 

post edited by seasalt - 2021/06/30 14:19:28

Carmikey
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Re: Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder (Sold) and 2002 2ZZ Spyder. 2021/07/25 09:10:23 (permalink)
+2 (2)
Wow, what an effort! Good job though. Hope it fixes all the leaks now.

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2ZZW30
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Re: Seasalt's 2004 TTR Spyder (Sold) and 2002 2ZZ Spyder. 2022/06/02 11:44:25 (permalink)
+3 (3)
Seasalt's time with the MR2 has come to an end, with me purchasing the silver 2ZZ MR2 and bringing it back with me to Brisbane. I'm seriously impressed with the mechanicals of the car, drives amazingly.
Seasalt has provided enough parts alongside the car to make your headspin, so I have many potential avenues in the coming years for projects!
I'm targeting 240WHP while keeping the car sub-950kg, I'll try keep this thread alive.
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