maj
 
This is what the Abflug 918 kit looks like, will cost you about 20k for everything including the lights:
 

For 20K i think this kit is quite overpriced I am looking for some head and tail lights though I think I am going to fiberglass my own and use a lexan plastic or similar plastic sheet and heat form it into shape for the lens there really quite simple lights the body is just fiberglass with 2 projector lamps in it easily found for $100 for 2 lamps on eBay need one for low beam and one for high beam so $200 total for the lamps and they come with the whole transformer kit then a plastic lens over the top, this I think could be sealed on with a auto gasket glue like silastik.
 
For 20K though you'd be hoping the composite process has been that top notch that the glass is extremely light and still wont crack under pressure.
I remember when I was working at Mariah Hovercraft I was manufacturing hovercraft rear stabilizer wings we found by using a foam core and 2 single sheets of cloth we could make a whole wing that weighed just 2kg and was almost twice as strong as the old wings made of fiberglass weaved mat with no core and weighed around 6kg!
Thats the difference between a composite bumper made by Mclaren compared to an aftermarket body kit shop (plain rubbish kits that crack) they weigh more than the plastic bumpers that they replaced and I'm sure they don't make
the Mitsubishi lancers there commonly fitted to have anymore down force :P
 

That's what I'm doing also making the roof in three parts so the 2 targa top style prices can be stored in the frunk!

sweeetpete
Yes I bought my hardtop mainly so that I could mould it and make a carbon one for my track car. Once I have the mould I can make a glass one also and then work on modding that to suit the 918 style. Picked up the PPE downpipe for my 2ZZ swap today so just about have all the parts here and its getting a lot closer to completion , Finally.

Nice do you have pics

I've heard about the precats on these being notorious for collapse, but I thought being an exhaust, a collapsed precat would block that cylinder and cause it to blow rings, not have bits being sucked back into the engine..
Unless I am missing something here? Exhausts blow, not suck.

<facepalm>
 
Okay so I understand what you are saying might sound like it makes sense, but here we go:
 
If you think backpressure can cause things to get sucked BACK into the engine via the exhaust, somehow getting past the valves and making its way into the combustion chamber, you are mistaken.
 
If you could even fathom up a scenario where this works, it will not apply to your situation, this is why:
 
If you have a blocked precat, this then means for that cylinder, for all the exhaust gases getting pushed out of your chamber post combustion cycle, there is no longer a large area where the gases can escape and go into the exhaust, it is being blocked. So for every exhaust cycle you are getting a build up of gas there, pressurising the system. Usually the pressure can slowly escape since there is not a complete blockage (or if there is, pressure will cause something to blow out, usually the manifold gasket or valve seal).
What happens is the gases there are HOT, and with a buildup of hot gases with nowhere to go, the combustion chamber no longer has adequate cooling, heat causes stress, and something has to give. The manifold and gasket would probably crack and blow out first in ideal situations, but usually the piston rings are fried and give up.
Other places could be your valve seals/guides.
 
I'm sure the rattling and grinding you are hearing is a broken piston ring. I'm sure it will still be on its guide but likely has cracked and moved around in the guide, causing bits to go around the place. Hope nothing too big has come off and gotten stuck in valves too etc.
With another engine you've mitigated the problem though so I expect you don't really care anyway.

Road and Track
i have test fitted the 2GR supercharged and made all the necessary brackets, exhaust headers etc.
There are some extensive body & chassis mods, that will require a lot of effort to get thru engineering for registration. Not impossible, just not straightforward
I plan on using it in race car.
 
I had to fix this auto-salon car some years ago. dead SMT. My recollection is the huge offset wheels and spacers on it, made it drive like crap. Strictly a "looks only" car at that time
 
 
 

Thanks for the info what was the exact problem with the SMT,
The one in the car now is slipping in second on down shifts but there wasn't anything left of the clutch when i took it off (maybe clutch slipping and not the gear :S!
I'm running 295 rear tires with slight inner camber but no spacers just strait to the hubs if I didn't have them cambered they would hit the guards.
I've had the suspension all set up and all aligned so it was driving a dream before the engine went.
 
Do you to a conversion kit for example plans for what needs to be cut modded, loom, engine and trans mounts, shift linkage, headers, ect?
If so can you supply a price or PM me with details?


Did you have to custom make headers so you didn't have to mod the firewall?
I thought you only had to cut and strengthen the rear cross member so the trans fit?

IMAGE TAKEN FROM http://www.primemr2.com/2/post/2014/01/prime-starts-2gr-v6-mr-s-build.html

How did you get around the passenger coolant line, you didn't run it under the fuel tank did you?
I don't like the idea of running it under there the idea of the car scraping on a curb or something and busting that line could be a painful experience!


With getting it engineered can you build the car to completion then get it all signed off on or do you have to get each part signed off on so you cut and mod the cross member do they then judge how it was done or do you recommend getting a engineer to do that job?