Yes pressure plate changed with both,
brand new kits both occasions, not sure if this is fried, but it definatley slips and does not bite like a hd clutch should,
all i can put it down to is install error, or the VERY loose tranny mount effecting engagement and pressure.

is there a special thing a clutch specialist may have missed, any little tricks an MR2 has for installing a clutch?
or is it the same as it is for every other transaxle layout vehicle.

Hate to burst your bubble, but having an incorrectly fitted front torque mount will not affect the clutch operation.  It is an indication that at least part of the install was not done correctly, so I would begin to wonder what else was missed.
 
Your tale of woe is reminiscent of issues we had with an Exedy in an Evo IX.  First install, done at a Ralliart qualified workshop, lasted all of 900 km's.  The car owner made the decision to go with Performance Clutch (Brisbane), happiness filled.

I've always run excedy clutches on every car without issue. Even when I used a HD Organic on a brand new billet steel flywheel I didn't have to wait for it to grab or anything. Would bite from day one. How much horse power are you running? Even with mild mods a standard clutch would have no problems launching so I doubt anything will change in the next 5,000kms. I've seen someone have an issue with the clutch slipping when excessive grease was put on the fly wheel bots and it speading onto the flywheel. Caused the clutch to slip and super heat on launches then the clutch fell apart.

if you have a low powered NA SW20 with large grippy tyres, due to the engine being over the rear wheels, this makes the clutch the weakest link instead of the wheels spinning. you either bog down or slip the clutch. this promotes wear of the clutch, but your case does seem a bit extreme.

I've never had a particular bedding in procedure with a new clutch, you just don't do the obvious and dump it or ride/feather it for a while.
 
I wouldn't use a set amount of km's either. Every clutch I've had replaced I just always gingerly let it off at first. Usually with a good clutch you will be able to do this without ANY throttle at all, and you'll feel the car want to jump (unless using a puck clutch, then it'll just probably stall). At that point you can give the throttle a tap and fully let off the clutch pedal, and away you go :)
 
After a while you feel the pedal ease up when it wants to jump, then you know the clutch is happily gripping. I've had this happen as low as 400kms after install, but typically usually around the 1000-1200km mark. Use your own intuition here.
 
I wouldn't be afraid to let the car rev either, even with a boosted car, just use a more progressive throttle technique rather than planting your foot to WOT immediately, so you reduce stress on the drivetrain.
 
I've found the most strain on the clutch is usually in a higher gear at low'ish RPM but accelerating, i.e. around 2,800rpm when the turbo is spooling and you're feeding the drivetrain a HEAP of torque, instead just downshift rather than planting your foot and you'll be right.

Grab point is 2 inches off the floor really,
clutch feels better now, i think i was just paranoid, no more slipping, feels nice a bitey now,

also, im only running KU31 tyres 225/50 rears

replaced the old one because, one it was starting to slip and two it hadnt been replaced in 12 years and it had done 45xxxkms just felt dead.

Have put 324Kw through an Exedy clutch running the organic plate with no issues at all.
Clutch hydraulics are pretty basic on the SW20s however there are some longer push rods out there
for the slave cylinder if they are too long they bottom out and do not give you a zero lash position and the clutch is actually riding this does not sit well with the clutch or the thrust bearing I have seen this issue once ironically with an exedy clutch that self destructed in a very short time.
To check to see if your slave cylinder push rod is ok firstly make sure your clutch is bled properly once that is right with the clutch pedal in its relaxed position crack the bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder and push the clutch fork into the slave cylinder you should have some movement there before things bottom out. tighten up the bleeder nipple before you let the pressure off the clutch fork otherwise you will suck air back into the slave cylinder.
Hope this helps
Phil