ECU / INJECTOR ISSUE!!! Any ECU experrts out there?

Checked all the grounds etc?  On back of intake manifold and engine to chassis?

I made extra earthing cables.

Throttle body top bolt to chassis
Plug loom bolt to chassis
Double earth on head bolt opposite oil cap to under strut top

Up to you where you put them but I did those and they helped

Are they new plugs?

are you talking 3SG*?
 
normally with toyota wiring for injectors its always 12v. it doesn't get lower (maybe 11v or so for normal running drop). 2 wire injectors have 1 constant 12v power which is the main sensor power coming from the EFI main fuse/B+. and then the ECU grounds the other wire in batches. grounds 1&4 together and 2&3 together.
 
so if your getting 7-8v or whatnot that is odd. unless 3S motors are completely different to all other toyota motors/electrics
 
 
If your running the motor and have a mutlimeter on it though it might explain it, the pulses are way too fast for a multimeter to catch. so if your holding the pointers bewteen the 2 wires on the injector plug this won't be giving you any good readings you can do anything with.

Actually Wiso reading your last post about the injection being batched 1&4 and 2&3, I'm almost certain its a injector fault. I thought the Gen 3 3SGTE might be sequential injection? If its batched then definately is the injector otherwise cylinder 1 and 4's plugs should both be soaked in petrol.

I'm not sure what you mean by checking the continuity between the ground wires? Checked the positive side its receiving 12volts. I did a few test today to work out if its the injector or ECU but still can't tell. I know that the injector is not stuck permanently open.
Okay so before doing anything today I pulled the spark plug out to see if the cylinder was filled with fuel (incase the injector is leaking when closed or stuck open) there was no fuel in the cylinder. Unplug the injector and started the car with no spark plug in, no fuel came flying out. Plug the connector back on started the car without the spark plug in, no fuel came flying out so still an intermittent problem. Put the spark plug in started the car and all running fine doesn't smell of fuel. Checked the spark plugs, cylinder one plug was a bit wet, just slightly all the others were dry. Started the car again and unplug cylinder 4's injector plug while running. the idle dropped and engine was stumbling. Did the same test on cylinder 1, the engine also stumbles BUT not as noticeable as cylinder 4. It still runs a bit different but not as bad as cylinder 4 being disconnected. I pulled the plugs out again and they were all dry.
So I know its not completely stuck open however yesterday it did put enough fuel in on cranking (after not being started for 3 days) to hydraulically lock the cylinder. So I'm not sure what the issue is. Either the ECU is intermittently telling the injector to open fully sometimes or the injector gets stuck open sometimes....Can a fully open injector put in enough fuel to hydraulically lock the cylinder on cranking or would it have to leak fuel in over night?

It definitely seems like fuel. There was 4liters of fuel added to the oil in the sump and it smells strongly of fuel. When it happens you can smell fuel coming out the exhaust and basically everywhere. Also when the issue happened and I cranked it with spark plug out, it was definitely fuel coming out the plug hole. When the car is started and running I've never had it hydraulic lock, only on starting up. It's definitely isolated to the one cylinder too. Does anyone know for sure if the Gen3 Turbo's run batched injection 1&4 or if its sequential?

Mines not running any extra injectors but I've got a whole new list of problems now.
I haven't been able to get the hydraulic lock on start up to happen again. So I put the piping and all back on and took it out for a drive.
The ECU has started to register error code 47, which I can't find any info about. I clear it drive and it comes back. Also the exhaust temperature light comes on after about 1minute of driving. I pulled out the plugs and all of them are white so now its running lean when driving. Also it wont rev past 6,500 - 7,000rpm. I tried on low boost 10psi and high boost 16psi and it wont rev past 6,500rpm to 7,000rpm. I've got a new ignitor, coil, spark plugs, leads, distributor cap and button. If it was spark related I would expect it to happen earlier in the rev range when trying high boost. Might be the knock sensor kicking in because of the engine running lean? Any ideas why the exhaust temps are going crazy? The pipe is not glowing red of anything. Could it just be my ECU going nuts? It's a mines chipped ecu so no rev limit etc...