New wheels look good mate. My fronts are 17x8 +33 and they are very close to the coilover collar as well.

My Federals have quite a large rim protector lip actually, I think the 7.5s are a pretty good width for the front.

Over the weekend i pulled the sump off to reseal it and find out where this leak was coming from.
 
Well... here is the picture of the oil return pipe. (Hiflowed turbo and modified feed/return lines from previous owner)
 
 
 
 
and now here is a different view of the return pipe.
 

 
explains a lot....
They jammed a tapered barb adapter into the end of the existing fitting!
My solution is fairly dodgy too... but i'll replace it soon. 

Wow. So it's been a while since I've updated this.

After that photo shoot... this happened.



I kinda succeeded in rebuilding it, but it didn't last long.

Then this happened....
I ran it a little low on oil at one stage and killed the rod bearings..... and also cracked the crank.



 
While it was apart I also had the chance to install some Gen 2 3SGE cams
NB: may not be the gen2 cams installed in the photo below...
 

 This happened at one stage as well. The left failed in 2013 so I replaced it with a chromoly cage, and finally got around to doing the right hand-side too.

 
While all that was happening, I also got a little carried away with some electronics and converted the clock to a multi-gauge powered by an Arduino Nano. It had ambient temp, voltage, water temp (kinda), wideband input, and provisions for oil temp and oil pressure. I didn't get around to those two.


 
 Just a nice shot in the Adelaide Hills

 
 

 
The car has been on and off the road so many times in the last few years it's hard to tell what was when. at the end of 2016 I also bought NoddE's COP kit and installed the 1ZZ coils. It took a while to get around to it but I was running them for about a year.
I then had the opportunity to buy an almost new Link G4+ PNP ECU off Randomity. So it's now tuneable!!!
I've taught myself a hell of a lot from HP Academy. Get the subscription and just watch all the webinars. Definitely worth it! They also gave me a $50 voucher so I went through the EFI fundamentals course as well.
 
The ECU is now all set up with a nice stable Idle, modelled fuel, Tomei FPR with fuel pressure gauge, closed loop lambda, direct spark ignition (don't need NoddE's module anymore) and....... OBDII!!!!! :D

I've also installed an Odroid (RPi on steroids) with a 7" touch screen that fits nicely wedged in the double-din space (not quite wide enough, but I can live with that).
It's running Android and has GPS, WiFi, 4G, Torque App with the Link ECU output and all of the data logging I could imagine.

I'm gradually tweaking the tune as I go, Ignition timing is still fairly conservative, but the fuel map is about 90% complete.

That's probably enough for now.

I built it myself.

Arduino Nano
CRIUS 128x64 OLED
Freetronics DC voltage converter
DS18B20 digital one-wire temp sensor (no calibration required. Max temp around 100 deg though)
Standard NTC water temp sensor (absolute pain to calibrate!)
Voltage sensor 
USB extension to panel mount USB-B socket in glovebox.

Since doing this, I've also made a GPS speedo and google traffic monitor for my daily. The GenIV Liberty has a great little spot in the roof that was wasted with seatbelt warnings. So I put a 128x32 OLED, NodeMCU and NavSpark Mini GPS module in that spot. I've got a USB wifi hotspot in the car that is used to get the real-time traffic info for my commute each way. I've also just set it up so that I can use an app to update the destination to whatever address I want.

Much better than a few warning lights!

Yes it does, and yes I do.

I've run out of DI pins on my ECU as I'm using the standard DI1 - start, DI2 - AC, DI3 - speed.
I have the expansion harness but haven't wired it up yet. Working out how to do it neatly.

As far as I can tell, the steering angle sensor is working as it should, turning the pump on when turning, but I had a few issues with idle when turning as there is still no input to the ECU. This is solved by moving the PS pin to one of the DI pins.
There is also a PSCT pin which I think triggered the power steering as well. I'm not sure what happened with that on mine. I've got a Gen2 body loom though.

Almost. The PS pin is either high or low and is a switch/input for the ECU idle up. That needs to be a DI for the Link. 
The PSCT is the output (most likely an AUX from the Link) that is then sent to the PS ECU to switch off above x kph as you suggest. That's the way I understand it. The beauty of that is we can control what that switch condition is now. I believe that it needs to be grounded (low) to switch off the pump. Thankfully, this is exactly what the AUX does.

The Aux I think is correct, but the AnVolt is a 0-5v input. Not sure if it would acheive the same thing as having it wired to a digital input (DI). I certainly wouldn't wire it to AnVolt.

Technically yes. Factory sensor. The KNK pin on the Link uses the factory pin location but the documentation has that blank. Apparently it's been fixed in the latest release.

I still haven't configured the knock threshold though, so it really isn't active.