Stroker build with Gen 3 block

Headgasket (thickness depends on how much is shaved off the head) - if not running a super big turbo/boost, I recommend a slightly higher comp ratio (9.0:1)
Sundries like seals, metal gaskets, etc too
New OEM water & oil pump
ARP head studs
Make sure you use the 3S crank gear instead of the 5S one
Mild cylinder head porting if possible/within means
Cams, valve springs & adjustable gears

You need a 5s rear main seal 

If your getting a new pump anyway you may as well get yourself a late 5S pump.  Can get 5S crank from any engine however if you can find an early one from a celica or something whichout the balance shaft gear your onto a winner though it isn't particularly compulsory (my first 5S stroker had a balance shaft crank fitted).  There are two ways around the crank issue.  Crank machining and then nitriding (you'll machine through the induction hardening on the OEM crankshaft to get it to 3S size) would cost at least $500 I would say.  Alternatively, you can get some Pauter 5S rods and fit them straight to the 5S crank, keeping insitu the factory hardening treatment.  Costs end up about the same (pauter rods more expensive then eagle or something like that, but are also better as well) in the end and you end up with a stronger set of rods, arguably stronger crankshaft (keep more journal overlap, which is a pretty large factor in crankshaft strength).  Downside is the rods and crank journals end up slightly heavier.  I doubt the weight addition, nor the strength loss would matter at all with your goals so either way would be fine.
 
On my first stroker I went with the 5S rods and kept standard journal sizing on the 5S crank.  Latest (unfinished) engine I obviously got the billet stroker crank so no mods needed for install, comes with 3S journal size and flywheel PCD etc and fits 3S rear main seal.  Many ways to skin a cat.  I've probably considered every single one of them and chosen what I consider the best possible compromise between all methods and parts.