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And back to the start

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Gatesys SW20
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2013/05/11 18:38:04 (permalink)
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And back to the start

Hey guys
So I bought my third mr2 today
Hahah
So I'm back in an Na and I'm back in a red rev 2
It's a 1992 model
No power steering- that's what I like :D
And it has abs yay

But in all seriousness I picked it up for 5k
It needs a little work
Engine and box are ok body is good pain is good

Just needs some tlc will post up some before and afters tomorrow

So I have a few questions
The temp gauge dosnt rise much above a quarter? Is that normal

Also, my tacho only moves up to about 1000rpm lol?

My clutch pedal is biting about .5cm from pushing it in so wil be adjusting that

My main issue is it seems to have some slight vibration in the higher rpms any one have any ideas what this may be?

Also how can I adjust the timing of the ignition
I thinks it's a bit retarded,
Finally
Plans with this is to go
Coilovers, front sway bar, ball joints, full bush kit etc

Then later along the line either turbo swap it
Or I'm leaning more towards this
Buy a second third gen Na and build it with forged internals, a much higher comp rating
Balanced crank, valve springs, valves and 272 cams
An ecu and a tune so it's an absolute weapon and still maintains great reliability

Thoughts?
#1


62 Replies Related Threads

    Peter
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    Re: And back to the start 2013/05/11 19:20:09 (permalink)
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    Hi Gatesy,
    When I bought my SW20 NA had same thing with water temp.
    Thermostat had fallen apart & was open all the time.
    Need to replace thermostat.
    Redtarga has written a procedure for doing it without fully draining coolant. Can send a copy if you want.
    Send a pm with an E-Mail address.
     
    #2
    Gatesys SW20
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    Re: And back to the start 2013/05/11 19:27:23 (permalink)
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    That may explain why it's warming up fast..
    Ill be getting work to flush and refill the system with toyota red anywho
    #3

    Ant1
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    Re: And back to the start 2013/05/11 20:36:53 (permalink)
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    Vibration issue may be the engine mounts being worn.

    To advance the timing you need to rotate the distributor cap clockwise. But best to use a timing light other wise you could do a lot of damage.

    It may have an over heating problem and someone has taken the thermostat out as a tempory fix. Has it ever over heated long distance?

    Tacho may be the capacitators in the back of it.
    #4
    Ant1
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    Re: And back to the start 2013/05/11 20:58:27 (permalink)
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    And if your flushing the radiator replace the thermostat whilst the coolant is out.

    Also where the hell are the photos?
    #5
    Tree
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    Re: And back to the start 2013/05/12 02:29:22 (permalink)
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    Doooooooodd
    You are one funny mofo LOL. One minute you sell it off the NA, buy a tubby. Need to buy house so then sells tubby. Buys NA...only one thing I can't work out is your financial stability??? lol. Now you have plans to work the motor. Sounds like a bit of history repeat if you ask me lol. Shoulda kept the old one bro :(
    Whatever, another NA MTC contender :D
     
    Funny, it warms up fast, yet it doesn't rise above 1/4 mark?? Whats the coolant condition?
     
    +1 thermostat - if it's slow to rise. Seems to be 70% of the symptom/problem when I was buying mine, prev owner negligence...
    #6

    Gatesys SW20
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    Re: And back to the start 2013/05/12 10:59:11 (permalink)
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    Ah aha I know right,
    I still have the tubby
    And my finances are sweet ahahahahah

    I know biggest regret selling that Na
    I have to start all over again,

    Ok guys,
    My throttle dosnt open all te way when the foot is flat, the pedal has heaps of play in it also anyone
    Tell me how to adjust both the cable and pedal? To save me stuffing around
    It feels very slow aswell hence why I think the timing is out
    My old Na felt like a Ferrari next to this,
    But I've also discovered my sensor that plumbs into the air box is just hanging around in the engine bay?
    Could this contribute to poor performance
    And also sorry I meant it takes a while to heat up
    Yeah ill have toyota replace the stat aswell

    I have a tridon hi flow one around here somewhere
    But I think ill just go with the standard one as we have a heap of them on the shelf
    :)
    Pictures will follow shortly, just need to get it in a respectable condition :)

    But yeah I really am leaning to buying a second motor and working it rather then going tubby
    So much cooler and funner tbh
    #7
    Reddtarga
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    Re: And back to the start 2013/05/12 11:26:43 (permalink)
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    From dead cold, temp gauge should start to move after about 2 minutes and should sit in the middle when hot, and then never move if the system is working properly.
     
    When starting from cold, at idle the tacho should  sit on about 1250 and then slowly drop back 750 when totally hot (at idle) so long as the A/C is not switched on.
     
     
    To set dist timing, first clean the crank pulley and use chalk to make the notch more visible.

    post edited by Reddtarga - 2013/05/12 11:38:58

    1990 ADM NA
     
     
     
     
     
     
    #8
    Ant1
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    Re: And back to the start 2013/05/12 16:43:18 (permalink)
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    Your loose throttle cable would definently reduce your power if its not opening up all the way. You should be able to tighten it at the end of it near the throttle body.

    Is it pinging at all?
    #9
    Gatesys SW20
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    Re: And back to the start 2013/05/12 20:03:25 (permalink)
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    By pinging you mean tapping or something?

    Not that I can hear
    Very certain I have a huge vaccum leak somewhere as all I can hear is hissing noises but could be coming from the stupid pod filter
    #10
    Ant1
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    Re: And back to the start 2013/05/12 21:32:36 (permalink)
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    No, it sort of sounds like a rattle.

    Doubt it would be the pod, shouldn't be hard to locate if its that loud though, just start it up and listen and feel around the engine.
    #11
    Tree
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    Re: And back to the start 2013/05/12 21:46:01 (permalink)
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    Open pods are pretty loud during cold start up (cold=rich)
    If finances r sweet get the Beamssssss man, beats gen 2 and 3 worked or not anyday ;)
    Also hi-flow Tridon could be the Gen 3 one with is 25% bigger than Gen 2. Make sure u get the right one. I have a Gen 2 one handy just fyi...
    #12
    Gatesys SW20
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    Re: And back to the start 2013/05/12 21:49:01 (permalink)
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    Yeah I shall be doing that,
    Ill find it :)

    And yeah I'd like to go a redtop tree,
    Ill see what I can do,
    That would be awsome what did it cost you to get it done? All up

    If I could source one maybe I could get the boys in the workshop it put her in
    But I'd need an ecu and god knows what else...
    #13
    Tree
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    Re: And back to the start 2013/05/12 21:58:33 (permalink)
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    You can keep the cost under $5000 easily parts and workshop labour.
    Just_ace might have a spare loom for redtop, I have a spare ECU that I will hold on for a bit.
    Wrote an article in the tech guides if u wanna know what I went thru, parts etc
    #14
    Gatesys SW20
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    Re: And back to the start 2013/05/12 22:02:19 (permalink)
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    Yeah link that shut to me man

    Yeah I think at least redtop engine not to fussed on the gearbox mine is actually really good

    LSD would be nice tho

    But loom and ecu,

    Then most likely alternator, and water pump
    2-2.5k in parts maybe 3
    And I'd say 1k in labour if I con the guys to do it
    #15
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