Yeah, I know Brendan quite well, and I am always having a friendly dig at him.  I helped him remove his original motor over a year ago.  I am just wondering when the new one is going in, haha.   I do urge Brendan to get the car on the track though.  From experience is it my opinion that doing all the work to your car in one big lump can be quite unsatisfying in the end.  I think it helps to be able to appreciate the spoils of each of your upgrades or modifications.
 
Brendan has changed things up about 100 times between when he started and now, and if it keeps going like that the car will never be complete! :)  He is starting to get toward the point where the gear he is installing is top tier though, so I don't know what he's got to improve upon so that may hasten things a little.  He just has to pull together the cash to buy all the top notch gear to complete the car throughout.  He'll be buying a Bosch Motorsports ECU and other parts soon.  We sussed out their stand at the GP this year... went home and found out just how much the gear costs.... $*(! me!
 
Did WIDEMR mention he is also fitting air jacks to his SW20? :)

Yeah as James said we all have told Brendan to stop changing things and just drive it AS IS for the time being.
 
But it is his car and i do love these motorsport wiring jobs :)
 
Not sure if i would go to that extent but my engine wiring harness will have a mil spec plug on the firewall meaning the driveline can be removed in a more efficient manner. 
 
Waiting for more pics.

Couple of other bits and pieces to add:

with the wire strippers you can get a set from motec for a little over $100,and are suitable for use with tefzel wire. they suit 22g->16 (unfortunantley not to 26g) and there is also a larger set, suitable for normal wire. They are made by snap on, and look exactly the same as the wire strippers brendan showed.

For unbooted connectors where a boot is not possible to fit (delco sensors and honeywell), you can seal off the wire with a little bit of ES heatshrink. this stuff comes in 5 or 6 sizes from memory, but it can shrink down 300% from its original size.

Power Distribution modules are very very useful tools, as you can not only moniter and log the current useage of each device, you can set up warnings to dashes when particular outputs are drawing too much current, also if it triggers a digital fuse, a quick key off and on and the switch is reset, no replacing fuses. Also in multi fuel pump setups, by monitoring current draw through each pump, you can keep an eye on the health of the pump (higher current draw - pump on its way out)

When you start getting to the extreme end of things, you will also get to the point of changing sensors to motorsport grade sensors. For instance you can start off with things like solid state liquid level sensors for fuel etc, fuel flow sensors for endurance vehicles, you can even run an engine debris sensor for things like you engine and gearbox to help prevent doing massive damage to these components. You can even use ultrasonic flow sensors for airflow meters and i've known them to be run in breather setups to moniter engine blowby. I've had some experience with a UK company called Gill, their products are used in V8SC, F1, WRC, etc. Be warned, they are VERY expensive. We pay around $980 for one of their fuel level sensors,and they are distributed by racer industries.

Motorsport looms can be very time consuming depending on the number of systems included in a car. For a basic engine/fuel system/brake lights/dash can take 40hours depending on the car, then when you start adding more and more things, it can take quite a while.

For the melbourne based members, a couple of places for such parts to build your wiring loom:
Jay Dee auto cables
Motec (expensive)
Gary Rowe (even more expensive) This guy also builds motorsport looms, and has been for years. Also easiest place to source DT autosport connectors.

Also check out cambridge technologies as well, have used them in the past for wire.

Another note, DT and DTM connectors pop up a lot on ebay, and there are fake DTM connectors. We were shown some and checked them over, and the only way you can actually tell is the pins are numbered in reverse order.

Yeh I'm curious too MCT_MR2 you seems to know a lot about...everything lol

lets just say I work for a motec dealer, who helped develop the m800, and although I am mechanic by trade, I do a lot of aftermarket ecu installs etc.

Good link Travis.
Mine should be redone, up and running in a few days.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=LEmXo17uhOU
 
the heatgun part is really the true teller of why you should buy better wire i feel.</p>