bad handling characteristics

Might take ages but i'm sure you can adjust all your coilovers to the same/preferable height. The lower you go, the worst the bump steer.
 
As for your wheel alignment, you should be telling them what you want. Grab the print out from bridgestone as it should show before and after adjustments. Then you can sorta determine what your old set up was.
 
Good luck!
 
 

Never just drop your MR2 off to a "Wheel Alignment & Suspension Expert" without having done some research if they are any good.
It always ends in tears.
 
I also no longer leave the car with suspension places, I watch them do the job and point out exactly what has to be adjusted and where it gets adjusted.
Just dropping the car off to any Bridgestone, Beaurepaires or QuickFit will generally end in a Celica or a Commodore suspension setting loaded onto your car........ (Since they don't know what the car is they end up just throwing settings on something "close").

Its best to work out how to do your own alignments then test and tune. Once you get your head around the basics its a lot of fun tuning suspension settings.
From what I have found, the first thing to check is the rebound setting. It will be the adjustment on the top of your shocks or in some cases the bottom. Start with a setting of one third of the adjustment available. Turn it completely anti clockwise, then turn it all the way clockwise counting the amount of 'clicks' till there is resistance. Return it back anticlockwise then set at one third of the available settings. If you wind it up to a harder setting on the rear, it will make the rear nervous. Softer is better on the rear. Use the same on the front then dial it in with a click at time.
Next is to sort the alignment yourself.
Make sure the front and rear caster are the same on both sides of the car. Buy a digital level on ebay and play around. Its cheap, easy and works.
Find some level ground then measure the height from the subframe behind the front wheel. Make a block/spacer/guage then will slide into this space. Go to the other front side of the car and see if its the same. If its different, wind up or down the coil over till its the same. Next step is to fix a 10mm spacer to the block/spacer/guage then check the rear of the car under the subframe in front of the rear wheels. Adjuct to suit. Its a little rough and ready but it does work.
Next set the camber with your adjustments and new digital level available.
Then you can set the toe settings front and rear. The string line system may seem odd, but it is used in every level of motorsport including F1.
It will take a little time at first, but once you have it worked out, it doesnt take all that long.
 
 
 
Another trick is to set the rear 10mm higher than the front to settle the car.
Make sure the lower control arm links are higher on the subframe than the mounting point at the ball joint.
 

Did you check you're tyre pressures? Maybe they ramped them up before they did the alignment?
The other thing is with some top adjustable shocks the adjusters stuff up and you have to twist the dials back and forth to get them to work properly again.

Most (if not all) coilover shocks for SW20s require that the bottom link be disconnected, in order to rotate the base of the strut around the thread in order to lower/raise the ride height.
What sort of camber/caster are you running?

Its better to disconnect the bar to get a clearer reading when resetting the height but they clearly made a mistake by not fitting the bar back into place.
 
 

If your in Melbourne , may i suggest Trutrack in Noth Melbourne they will get it 100%