Ant1
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Tacho
My tacho isn't working, I have never even seen it move the slightest bit. Don't even get a reading on the Apexi AVC-R type-r.. Anyone got any idea?.. Done a search on here and the only thing I could find was the capacitors, could it be that even though I have no reading at all?
post edited by Ant1 - 2012/10/15 18:18:40
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Ant1
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So I pulled the instrument cluster out today and had a look at it. Pulled the tacho needle off, put it back on and when i turned the ignition on the needle raised to 1100rpm, then when I turned the car off it went back down to 500rpm, so I'm guessing its getting some sort of power?
Also the speedo needle vibrates as it goes up now, a lot. Don't know if maybe I put the speedo cable back in wrong, but I definently pushed it all the way on.
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spudman
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does your car have an electronic or cable speedo, if you have a cable running from your gearbox to your speedo, chances are the wire is wearing out at the gearbox end. May need to replace it.
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Ant1
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Yeah it has a cable, it worked fine until I pulled it out of the speedometer to check out the tacho. No idea why though, I pushed it all the way back on, and have checked the whole cable.
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spudman
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The end of the cable going into the gearbox should be square at the end, the corners wear out and it "looses grip" which is why your speedo jumps around. You can get the entire cable repaired at any instrument shop. I got one done at an outlet for VDO guages. Just give them your old one and they will fix it. Hope this helps. As for your tacho, have you tried disconnecting the any aftermarket units spliced into the harness controlling the tacho?
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Ant1
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Or what if the same thing has happened to the opposite end? Because it only ever started once I pulled it out on that end.
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Ant1
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Oh and no as I would not know where to start haha wires everywhere.
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spudman
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It is possible the trouble could be at the speedo end. When you disconnect the bucket holding the cable assembly to the back of the instrument cluster it does turn a little to lock it in place.
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spudman
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Also, try tightening the screws holding the tacho onto the cluster, l think there are three you have to tighten, other than this you may have to perform some special favours for you local auto electrician
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Ant1
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Okay, yeah makes sense, they are so easily broken, always had troubles with them on my Celica.
Already tried that. Yep, this is going to be a pain in the ass, or wallet haha.
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zmit
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1992 SW20 GT ... and loving it...
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Ant1
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That was actually the first page I looked at when I started trying to fix it lol. Come to the conclusion that it is too much of a pain in the ass, so I'm installing an aftermarket one. Thanks anyway.
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zmit
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I just fixed mine with a budget of $0.60.
It's worth doing.
- about 10 screws
- four clip panels
- 20 minutes to pull the panelling off
- dismantling the instrument cluster (clear casing, black casing, three screws)
- desoldering the capacitors (x2)
- solder new ones in place
- refit
It really is the first place to check. You will kick yourself if you spend hundreds of dollars for no reason. (failing that, ask a sparky to look at it based off the link I posted)
1992 SW20 GT ... and loving it...
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Ant1
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Don't think that that's it because the needle still moved from 750 to 1250 when I start the car, although it doesn't move other than that.
Pretty sure that it has something to do with aftermarket ecu, so probably a pain in the ass.
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MRTurbo
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on the topic of clusters, sometimes when i start my car when warm, the temp needle will stay on 'C' until i give the top of the dash a tap then it goes up (thanks MRvirgin), anyone know why it would get stuck? just old age?
1990 SW20 GT 3S-GTE Targa 2001 Honda CBR600F4i 
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