Guard rolling SW20

My rear tyres are scrubbing badly on bumps and around corners. Just wondering if anyone has rolled the rear guards themselves and how did it turn out? Don't know why the rears have such a stupid big lip and the fronts don't. 
rang the guy at the tyre shop and he said he did it himself with a heat gun and a piece of pipe with a rag around it.
 
Any advice on this would be appreciated.

Do not go for the "pipe" option, the tool that they use is designed to keep a smooth arc the whole way around your wheel arch. The Pipe option or /HAMMER option will just leave the sill with a very ripply finish.
 
I had my wheel guards rolled, the finish was much better as it was done by a professional. The issue is that they can't guarantee the paint won't flake off as they bend the panel upwards, while they do use a heat gun to soften the paint theres nothing worse than having paint missing from a spot thats subjected to water and dirt.
 
How long are you keeping the wheels on the car? You may find another set that may suit better. Once you've done the guard rolling its quite difficult to reverse it if you wanted to go go back stock. Then again you only live once enjoy a little as they say :)

I used both pipe method and the specialised tool. To be honest, I prefered doing it myself as I can take time where as a shop may rush it and cause serious damage (no one guarantees a crack-less job).
 
My paint did crack when I did either method but simply touched up as it was only on the inside lips and I didnt use a heat gun? Both methods were as easy to do. Using the tool is a fair bit safer.

With the tool, you have a bit more control and was a fair bit safer - I have actually used it to flare the rear guards slightly to fit the 18s. (but now factory 14s look more miserable! )
 
After rolling guards, I had to hammer and slightly cut the rear bumper support as it was still scrubbing on bumps in that one spot - see below. (Tien SS coilovers on lowest setting and a 245/40R18 Tyre and a 18x9 +35 wheel)
 

 
That being all said, did same method on CRX and it had a little bit of bog in it, and bog cracked and fender looked like crap.

I bought the guard roller off ebay but couldn't figure how to use it? Chase_d borrowed it and said it works well. I just ended up using a fibreglass hammer and a heat gun. Heated the paint so it was just too hot to touch by hand and hammered the lip in. Took about 15mins a fender. Turned out pretty good. Paint was already cracking on one side so it just cracked a little more.

Yeah no worries josh i will look further into it when i get home and let u know how i go

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Auto-Car-Fender-Guard-Roller-Lip-Reforming-Rolling-Tool-Free-Postage-/350545435996?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item519e22dd5c
 
I have seen this guy put them on there constantly, and by the looks he has a heap of them... 100 bucks delivered, cant go wrong surely..

nah dont have a heat gun just yet, but im pretty sure u can get them rather cheap from bunnings... But in saying that, if you wanna get the heat gun, ill get the guard roller, we can try on mine first if you like and see how we go with cracking paint, etc, as i am not too fussed as i am looking at going black soon anyway...

yea heat gun should be <$30 at bunnings.  It's really hard to not crack the paint I found.  I've seen a mate's that was done professionally, but that cracked too - the roller gave a smooth finish. both cracked.  I'd prefer to use a roller next time, but taking my time with a rubber mallet was ok too, it just takes time :P