Boost is via a 9 position switch into a AV on the dash, so yeah still dash to ECU
 
Indicators was ok, these are controlled by momentary push buttons on the wheel, however id like put some logic so if i have the left indicators on and press the right indicator button, the left turns off and right comes on, that gets complicated, but yeah dont need hazards (rain light is pretty much the im going slow, limping, stalled light) and wipers were easy as i only have 1 wire motor (and 1 wiper blade with different linkage) so i dont have autopark ect, not a road car and dont plan on racing in the rain. Right now i have 1 button for toggle on/off if i want to leave them on if it is raining a bit and a momentary button to just hold and give it a little wipe, let go so it stops in the middle or passenger side, altho these are on the keypad, hard to see with helmet on, if i knew it was going to be wet i may reprogram a button on the wheel to be for wipers.
 
Very true, ive used a big chunk out of 200 already, i hope its enough, but i just simplified a few things and thats saved me a bit. Also can chomp through user conditions on the dash, may have to get advanced functions to unlock more (plus gain some advanced maths) but also need eventually pro logging and one day maybe T2, were does it end?
 
Hoping to get someone to help setup all the CAN templates ect, just working out exactly what i would like to be sent from here to there

Nathan, yeah your right on the 200 operations going quick, over half taken already, playing around a bit, some are essential to operations and some are used just because i can, things like;
 
Function created for Keypad button 'pump fuel out' LED 2 (yellow) 
 
PDM.Function.Fuel Pump OPs Fault=
  PDM.Output.06 Fuel Pump Main.Status.Fault=true
or
  PDM.Output.17 Fuel Pump Lift 1.Status.Fault=true
or
  PDM.Output.11 Fuel Pump Lift 2.Status.Fault=true
or
  PDM.Output.06 Fuel Pump Main.Status.Active=true, true for 2.00s
  and PDM.Output.06 Fuel Pump Main.Current <=5.0A, true for 2.00s
or
  PDM.Output.17 Fuel Pump Lift 1.Status.Active=true, true for 2.00s
  and PDM.Output.17 Fuel Pump Lift 1.Current <=0.6A, true for 2.00s
or
  PDM.Output.11 Fuel Pump Lift 2.Status.Active=true, true for 2.00s
  and PDM.Output.11 Fuel Pump Lift 2.Current <=0.6A, true for 2.00s
 
So yellow LED on keypad for that 1 button will show if either 3 outputs are in fault OR if any 3 outputs are on but theres less then normal current draw, ie device not connected, this usually wont bring up fault.
 
Obviously i can setup same as alarm in dash or switch element on a page or all pages ect

Yep, all channels from PDM are being logged. There is quite a bit of bandwith being used on CAN1, so the VIM which will have some high speed inputs (ie suspension pots at 1,000hz) and other things are on CAN2, CAN3 is for other non Motec devices and CAN4 is spare for now.
 
Getting a few little things sorted out. Got some things cut up then all bits welded up on the aluminium front 'intrusion' beam. 
 
Boxed in the sides of the tow strap mount (had to be lower than the main bar) so it dosent twist, left a hole so i can get a spanner in there to the k-nut. 
 
I have to weigh my old steel bar and steel P tow hook, but i believe the weight difference is over 5kg. Not that i need to save alot of weight from the front tho.
 
This afternoon i dropped it off at the powder coaters, getting media blasted, washed then powder coated.
 

 

 

 
 
Few little brackets for some Autosport connectors i had CNC cut then folded. I need to get a few other things cut up then i will clean these up, scotchbrite them then have them anodized.
 

 
 
Sorting out the rear of the car now, been going through some parts i bought, mmm 2 years ago? more?
New hub carriers, hubs, bearings, dust seals, c clips, speed sensors ect.
 
Pressed out the factory studs from the hub, have some ARP slightly extended ones to go in, with speed nose ends.
 

 
Will be sorting out rear lower control arms, tie rods etc soon, all rose jointed.
 
Put a new whiteline 20mm rear sway bar in, not sure if i will run the 20mm, stock 18mm, none, or down the track may put in a bar with adjustable blade end links, easy to do on the rear, no clearance issues really for the bar.
 
I noticed a while ago that one of the front wheels looked buckled, while its in the air and you rotate it, looking front on it really wobbles, as in OD of rim looks like it drifts in and out by almost 1 inch!
Swapped wheels left to right, nope not the wheel or tyre, still doing it on the same side, so thought was wheel bearing? or the hub ring, set up a dial gauge on the hub face, to see if it was the hub, then i noticed one of the wheel studs was longer, had a look, had a much longer knurl and the rim wasnt seating flat on the hub.
I was furious, assuming someone (a workshop)  had snapped a stud and replaced it, but no shop had worked on the car for a long time, so i would have been driving around like this for months when it was a road car and at the last track day, (well i did crash then, could i blame this?) but didnt make sense, it wobbles that bad, how could i not have known? or was it dont after i last drove it, only place was roll cage place, must have been them, then realised  ahhhh, i dont have any rotors on the car, so the rotor hat may have had large enough holes to allow it to sit flush and then due to the rotor hat thickness rim would be flush too, so all good, could have been done 10 years before i got the car.
 
As i only 10 minutes before pressed out all the factory studs from the brand new hubs for the rears, i had 10 brand new studs sitting there, so i pressed out that wrong stud and pressed in a new one, all good. I will be changing the front anyway, but the now fixed front hub will be a spare.

Admin
Wow. Your car is too good to race

I'd be too scared of scratching it!

Pressed in the ARP wheel studs then pressed in the new wheel bearing into the hub carrier, then the new hub into the carrier.
 

 

 

Hi B.
I did a similar trick neglecting to install rotors at one time.  Took a bloody hour to wakeup to why wheel wouldn't seat.   Please tell us that you are running those hub assemblies without the backing plates now that you have pressed in the hubs.   It does all look very nice.  Congrats.  Well done.  A tremendous amount of quality work.   Cheers.

Rear window glass has been removed and aluminium replacement has been made.
 
Shown bellow the blue look is just the blue protective film, i will finish up some mounting, at this stage the aim is to then scotchbrite it up, get it anodized black so its not reflective in the cabin on the windscreen, prob wont be anyway, then cover the engine bay side with gold reflective tape then bond it back onto car.
 
I will be running a sloped perspex engine lid and also due to wing ill be running / seating position ect i wont be able to see out the rear anyway.
 
I will have a rear view camera and monitor inside cabin in addition to plans to run the Bosch CAS-M Light (CAN based motorsport collision avoidance radar system)
 
The main reason for going aluminium, as said i wont be able to see out the rear anyway, is i will be having some 'engine ancillary devices' mounted to it, plus yes it does weigh less.
 
 

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