Frozen AW11 Flexible Brake Lines

Hello,  I need a little more clarification on your dillemma.Is it the metal brakeline nut that attaches to the rubber brake line that is giving you problems? if so,I should have some metal brakelines here in brisbane if you need a spare,just in case you strip the nut.I have found that locking vice grips work real well but do damage nut.
  Or is it where the rubber brake line goes through the bracket on the strut/shocky tower,that is giving you prob's?  that join does not undo(at least to my knowledge). Easiest way to undo it,is to unbolt rubber line from caliper and feed the line up through the hole in bracket.When undoing bolt from caliper,be careful not to lose the brass washers.
   Hope that helps.

It is the metal brakeline nut that attaches to the rubber brake line.  I have fed the rest though as you suggested.  It is just the nut giving the problems.  It is still frozen this morning after soaking overnight.
 
If things don't go well I'll be around to see you for those spare lines.
 
Cheers
Peter

skipsmr2aw11

Hello,  I need a little more clarification on your dillemma.Is it the metal brakeline nut that attaches to the rubber brake line that is giving you problems? if so,I should have some metal brakelines here in brisbane if you need a spare,just in case you strip the nut.I have found that locking vice grips work real well but do damage nut.
Or is it where the rubber brake line goes through the bracket on the strut/shocky tower,that is giving you prob's?  that join does not undo(at least to my knowledge). Easiest way to undo it,is to unbolt rubber line from caliper and feed the line up through the hole in bracket.When undoing bolt from caliper,be careful not to lose the brass washers.
  Hope that helps.

After much running around I managed to get some Freeze and Release.  I managed to get one nut off straight away with it so that's a good sign.  The first nut is slightly damaged and is proving tougher to move.
 
Skip: The tough one is the driver's side front brake.  If you have the line for that could you put it aside for me please?  I'll do the rears next weekend and see if the new technique works better on them.  While I was out I got a better quality flange nut spanner from Repco and this one works much better than the Supertool garbage I had to buy yesterday because Trade Tools were out of stock (I should have gone straight to Repco but didn't think of it.).
 
I'll keep working on the stubborn nut during the week.
 
Thanks
Peter

I got the Freeze and Release from Autobarn.
Repco said they normally have it but were out of stock.  I'd go to Autobarn though.  Supercheap said they discontinued stocking it in 2009! would you believe.
 
I'll take some photos and post them but it won't be until after next weekend.  I think the key is to get the good quality 10 mm flange nut spanner.  It was about $16 from Repco whereas the Supertool set of three spanners was $10 from Bunnings.  You get what you pay for and the Supertool spanner did not fit tightly.  A tight fit is the key to not destroying the nut.  I'll let you know how I go with the rears using the good spanner and Freeze and Release.
 
Cheers
Peter

TRD2000

where did you end up finding the freeze and release? i tried repco and supercheap to no avail...

also... any pics? i have this job coming up.

That's the spanner.  It has a 11mm fitting on the other end.  I found the receipt and it was $17.99 at Repco.
 
I agree with you 100% in that only this type of spanner and a good quality one should be used.  The first nut I tried with the cheap Supatool flange spanner damaged the nut.
Thanks for adding the photo.
 

Reddtarga

Is this the type of spanner we are talking about?

If undoing any of the brake line flange nuts, only this type should be used because it is almost a 'ring' spanner and is thicker than the usual open ender. Apart from allowing you to undo tight nuts without burring, they also allow you to do the nuts up tighter to stop leaks.

I believe I also got this one from Repco, so I hope the one you got is similar.

Loctite's a good brand, tho not the only one.
 
Their local website has a distributor locator (rhs) for Australia (or the US, Can & Carribean on the .com site!).
 
http://www.loctite.com.au...3089_3250_AUS_HTML.htm
 
perhaps ring for stock?

Job done!
 
I've attached some photos of the finished job.  Hel Performance modified the AW11 design so that they now mount using the OEM clips.  They have also changed the double adapter fitting with one that mates properly with the OEM fittings. Sam at Hel here in Brisbane was very helpful including sending the replacement lines out express post so I could get back on the road asap.
 



 
I also decided to recondition the clutch master and slave cyliners while I was at it.  The slave cylinder was a mess! It looks like it hasn't been touched for 24 years.  I suspect the fluid was never changed.  It's all cleaned up now and the clutch pedal has never felt so good.

 
Now to enjoy it for a little while before I start on the suspension.