Link G4 FTW!
Good luck :)

FTW: "For The Win". 
You answered it yourself... 

ozhummer
I'm starting to wonder if the Wolf was the best choice! ... The Link G4 has excellent features on paper and from all accounts it really good to tune. 

I am begining think the Link may have been a better choice - The tuner is a Link dealer and tuner and very highly regarded - he use to be a Wolf dealer but moved to Link for various reasons.. Yep - 105 @2000 is correct! - I have had to upgrade the injectors to 660cc to keep up. Thanks to Global EFI for sourcing ones that just plug into the std fuel rail ... will see how these go. The Wolf apparently is on it's way back to the tuner - I am not sure the status but it's either the same one, fixed or replaced! ..
I doubt a Turbo will be making boost @ 2000 rpm .. The Rotrex is (albeit about 1 psi) ..
 
Boost was falling away at 10 PSI (4000 rpm) - then the tuner discovered no vaccum line on the BOV!! - connecting this made linear boost all the way to the misfire @ 6500 - about 16PSI ..
 
He is going to video the final power run so I will post on YouTube and give everyone a link!!!
 
BTW: If anyone is interested in my setup for their AGZE I am happy to provide the CAD drawings for the Rotrex bracket, and put them in contact with the fabricator that made the intake! - You can duplicate my setup for about $20K (if you do the work yourself) - and I will have no prob making my ecu maps available too.. Lets hope I get bang for my buck!!! - I just want somewhere between 200 and 300 RWHP .. any more and I reckon the AW11 would be undrivable!!

Yes, good idea ...
 
The ECU went back to Wolf and was promptly returned as 'no fault found' - they did say that the ECU would power down if the 5v line was grounded - as there were only 2 sensors that used the 5v it was pretty easy to trace - The TPS .. this was fine and a 5v wire in the shielded cable that went to the cam angle sensor - this is not used on the AGZE but still ran the length of the shielded cable, we cut the wire at the ECU end (not used remember), and presto it all fired back into life! - So after the 8 odd hours of running the shielding must have pulled back with the heat and exposed the end of the wire which then shorted to the shield ...
 
The Miss fire was interesting - speaking with a bloke I work with who has an EVO said he tried the bosch iridium plugs and got a misfire high up in the rpm range - the tuner replaced the plugs with NGK iridium and the misfire vanished ..
 
Another 3 hrs on the dyno and it was on the trailer home..... finished .... for now anyway..
 
there were several issues. 1st, a sudden drop of boost at about 6k RPM - this turned out to be the BOV - far too small for the supercharged application, a very large unit was setup with the assistance of turbo smart and I plumbed it back into the intake - no ridiculous noise, and no loss of boost...
 
The intake temp raised sharply and quickly on a power run - after speaking with PWR we cam to the conclusion that the coolant probably wasn't flowing. I purged the system and filled it again with extension pipes making sure there was no air locks – seems to be flowing nicely now.
 
Now for the serious issues….
 
It’s low on HP – only about 200. We are aiming for another 150 ..Torque is double the std car but we can’t get more HP. One problem is compression, it’s at a meagre 8:1 (maybe a tad lower!) – we need to pull this up to a target of 9:1. I am using a .51 thou (1.4 mm) cometic MLS head gasket, I can lower this to a .27 thou MLS that effectively will pull us up to about 9:1 – Before doing this we will measure everything and make sure no valve/piston collisions will occur.
 
With the compression sorted we are going to focus on injectors and cams. There is a company in NZ that CNC machines CAMS to spec – the tuner and I are going to work out exactly what we want and get a set with HD springs – not too aggressive as we need to maintain about 20” of manifold vacuum at idle (brakes).
Injectors are currently 440cc Denso – these are being swapped out for 750 cc Bosch ones as the 440’s are at 85% currently.
So with these changes and another session on the dyno we are expected mid 300’s.. that should be achievable.
 
I have to say though – even 200 is fun ! – I have driven the car up the road and back and the front lifts and it is an absolute rocket! – I have had STi’s before and this currently would eat them up .. but it’s about setting targets and achieving them – I have a target and it’s not achieved …. Yet!...
 
I wont bother with photos as there are no external additions yet …
 
 
 
 
 

 
Yep - It's ok.. still not perfect, hesitates a bit on a throttle stab (prob needs a bit more fuel at that point) when cold, and generally cold start and idle needs a bit of work. all the fine tuning can come later when I get it back together..
 
Correct re Kelford - they do appear to have a good product. I'm not sure if I am going to really need to go shim under bucket as I won't be going for a particularly aggressive cam. STD ones for the AGZE are about 132 deg - I'm thinking about their 193-t (std shim) which is about 262 deg .. They are pretty good for the price at $999 NZ (~$750Aud) delivered! ... Need to do a lot of measuring first and with a reduced Head Gasket I will need to put a set of cam adjustment sprockets on so we can achieve perfect cam alignment...

John - I think from memory the original tyre fitted to this car was a Bridgestone RE88! - you can't get these and if you could it would be a waste of $ with whats available now.. Rims, again you may find someone selling the original tear drop rims - these are not available new anywhere in the world.. Suspension .. I too am in favour of OEM. The struts in these can be rebuilt with a variety of oem spec inserts to maintain the original feel - try Tokico - they do oem spec inserts - Springs are hard to get in OEM as all the manufactures in AUS anyway do lowered!  -not sure why anyone would lower these as they are low as it is!..
 
All other stuff I have found either at twosrus or Lithia toyota.. Lithia is a bit cheaper, and their shipping is too.. Theya re fast and Aaron there is super helpfull. He has even sourced a part for me (the ring that holds the passenger vent in place) from another dealer who is not part of the Toyota network - I think it came from Canada - a $13 part and prob the only on left in the world!!!
the last place is ebaymotors in the USA .. everything there from $40 oil pumps (new) to headlights.
One thing with Lithia - they need part numbers - you can find these through TOYODIY.COM (I think) - put your car vin an and presto - every part on your car!....
 
With regards to part hunting - I view it as a treasure hunt! .. I've been lucky and have been able to find everything I need .. so far .. EXCEPT A REPLACEMENT DASH!!!!!!!!!!!! ANYONE GOT ONE THAT'S NOT CRACKED ????

Honestly, the stock tires and rims don't do these cars any favours.
Roger Beck might have helped with the suspension on the AW11, but the 14X6 rims and the balloon-ish 185/60 profiles tires are a horrible combination. 15X7 with a 195/50 or 205/50 give the AW11 a lot more grip and makes it handle significantly better.