SC14 running near it's thermal limit of 12.5K - RPM - possible to get 18 - 20 PSI

Cams - 8.1mm lift.
 
Not sure about the throttle body yet - may try things with the OEM one first and if that doesn't give me the HP I'm after then will start changing things ..
 
My target is - 200 RWKW .. maybe optimistic but never mind...
 
Progress today - Slow and steady .. Engine assembly..
The guy who was MEANT to come and take the windscreen out never turned up - so no sand blasting of the body this weekend - bugger! - a weeks delay..
 
Wont be able to do too much more on the motor until I get the intercooler from PWR and the Haltech sensors...
 
 

No you sound like you are gunna get to your target!!
 
What are you going to do with the sc14 you bought?? Correct me if i'm wrong, but generally the smaller the pulley on a supercharger, the faster it spins and the more boost it makes, so surely you mean your going to start off with a larger pulley?

I was hoping that the supercharger installation would be simple - it would be if I had to do it all again, but my original design had the supercharger about 10mm too wide so it would be a case of either re-designing the bracket or, chopping into the back of the engine bay... I went for the former and re-designed the bracket and I am glad I did as the result is really good.
 
If you look at the photo you may think that the idler wheel is to close with too much wrap but there is a purpose to this. The Rotrex really needs a PK8 over a 160 degree wrap - pretty standard and about the same as the OEM SC setup in the AW11. To run a PK8 I would have needed to have a custom crank pulley made, modified the Air Cond compressor bracket and alternator bracket. I would have needed a new pulley on the water pump too - and then there is the issue with clearance between the pulley and the body.. So the reason I have run an Idler way up was to get as close to a 270 degree wrap on the supercharger as possible, and I have done that !... so I can run a PK5 belt (albeit a bloody expensive one).. and a factory OEM pully from a NA car (slightly smaller than the OEM SC Car).. The bearing in the idler has been replaced with a high RPM HIGH axle load type. The Rotrex has a max shaft RPM of 12,600 RPM and I am initially running a 100mm Pulley. With the factory 145 mm unit and a 7,500 redline this means I will be running a max RPM of 10,875 RPM  that is an internal RPM of 103,571 RPM. Doing a stack of calculations I have come up with a theoretical 1.8 bar (26psi)..
 
The Rotrex is a brilliant supercharger and to my knowledge no one has fitted one to an AW11 until now. (BTW It's standard fitment to the Koneggsssiiisssiiisiiisisiseeee) It's set up ready for the PWR Air to Water Intercooler - I have PWR fabricating a custom heat exchanger which will fit together with the SC oil cooler and mount with a 300 x 300 footprint in the OEM Intercooler position.
 
I also managed to get a nice set of high flow injectors that have just been released by Denso - these are a direct replacement of the OEM injectors expect with a 500cc rate @ 41psi - good for quite a few hundred pony’s... (they are yellow and visible in the pic)
 
Intake is being designed (not by me – by someone who is an expert in the area) .. and I am hoping will be here soon..
Paint is meant to be next weekend, but I will have to postpone the spray booth – I’m a few weeks away and want to ‘dry’ fit the engine first.
 
Any takers on HP ????? J
 

nice. so much for a "mild power increase" you were originally planning.
 
this is like mandalay's older brother. be good to have a comparison after. similar power with a whole lot less weight

Look great mate!
Great choice on the rotrex supercharger. I would be building something very similair to this if the budget allowed!

350 is your aim, were talking hp at the fly yes??
So convert to killowatts is around 260 at the fly, and then account for drivetrain and tyre loss (17-30%) and you are looking a 2-225rwkw.
 
if your talking 350hp atw, I am pretty sure you are going to be pushing the friendship with the stock block, in particular the main caps walking around. Tomei make ladder caps, which are a billet plate that goes across each main cap, but i would recommend some kind of 1 piece girdle.
Also have you releived the block at all??, it might be a worthwhile investment for a little bit of effort.
 
My suggestions may be completely unnecissary, but i thought i would throw the ideas out there. I've seen an unsleeved stock SR20 block hold up to 500wkw for a few years, so anything is possible.