Re:aw11 sc fuel or ignition cut out
2011/08/21 05:37:38
(permalink)
Yes, that is definitely a Cusco adjustable abv, so don't toss it out, lol. Those are worth money! They are designed to allow an adjustable boost level, as mentioned, but also allow the sc to spin up a bit more normally, as throttle is applied. Basically, the system will act more like a stock system than if just the abv mod is performed. It is not necessarily a huge difference, but is nice to know everything is working as designed. What I like about them is that you can essentially dial out over-heated boosting, by checking your max boost when the engine is cool, and then setting the abv for that boost level. Anything above it will mostly be wasted over heated boost that eventually does more damage than good.
As for you real issue though, it currently sounds like you have what is known over here as the low-end lean out, although your initial problem sounded more like the jdm top end issue that is also known.
The low end lean-out is usually caused on non-jdm 4agze engines/ecu's that have different ecu maps than the jdm versions, and are being over-boosted. The issue is more apparent under wide open throttle at low rpm, and causes a massive lean out issue and stumbling, before regaining its proper fueling at around 4k rpm. You can test that easly enough by lowering the boost level with the Cusco down to around 8-9 psi as mentioned previously. If that solves the issue than you most likely have a non-jdm ecu that is hampered by over boosting. The solution would be to either get an aftermarket ecu/stand alone, or get, what is known in the US as a Grunt Box, a device made to use the CSI to provide extra fuel at the point of lean out.
The initial issue you mentioned, however, the 5,500 rpm one, sounds like the jdm upper rpm problem that is caused by knock issues, and I believe is found with slightly newer jdm ecu's than what came in the MKI MR2 originally. When over boosting, the knock signal overwhelms the ecu and cause a dramatic drop in timing temporarily, until the rpm's drop and the ecu can correct itself. There has never been an easy solution to that issue that I am aware of, other than going with a stand alone ecu.
So long, and thanks for all the fish!