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Originally posted by -Totenkopf-
[br]Well, trial fitted it knowing it wasn't going to fit. To get it to turn and have some sort of clearance from hitting anything I need near 10mm more. Not going to happen. Add to that that when they took 3mm off the back of the flywheel they've now rendered it useless, as the bolts bottom out before the flywheel is tightened down, yay!

At this stage, I'm going to see what sort of refund I can get, and get an off the shelf item from either HKS or Clutchmaster.

Those two seem the pick of the litter when it comes to bolt up solution (which wont be bolt up for me :@). The 5sfe crank has a different PCD to the 3sgte crank, and I've alawys been quite against just elongating the holes so it fits up. So I dunno what im going to do there.

Perhaps if I go with the clutchmaster option they can modify the PCD for me.

James.

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HKS won't hold up either, I've seen it die too. Yet to see clutchmaster though. I seriously think an auto based setup on an MR2 would be animal on a drag car. Clutches are a real problem (tilton was the only proven unit).

James,
Just read all that stuff. That's crazy.
I thought I was only one to have problems with work done. There's too much "near enough's, good enough" these days!
cheers
Steve[x2x]

Oh, if you know anyone who wants to sponsor a quality respray let me know [88] Advertising space available [:p]

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Originally posted by roryh
[br]Jason - what clutch are you using? How much power did it take to chew up your OS - Tristan went through a few as well I think.

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You gotta remember tristan is a massive hoon too tho [:x)]

Its more the design that causes them to warp. All the Jap clutches run quite thin friction material & discs. These can't soak up alot of heat, which causes them to heat up excessively and warp when slipped. If you've got to the stage where your clutch is slipping on launch you either need to look at a more aggressive friction material or increasing the clamp pressure of the diaphram. The first option will reduce driveability whilst the second option will increase pedal pressure required. You can have replacement discs custom made to assist in alleviating the problem of warping discs. Also, high quality SG cast floater & pressure plates assist in alleviating the problem of warping these items, as the SG cast iron is more thermally stable then the steel plates that are used in alot of clutches. Even the tilton uses steep pressure & floater plates. One clutch manufacturer that comes to mind that uses SG cast iron plates are the German (I think?) Sachs items.

Tilton, believe it or not, is not the bee's knees of clutches itself, and actually stole the design from AP racing clutches (UK company). Tilton brag about being the first manufacturers to produce a carbon carbon cluch, however, what they don't tell you is that it was an utter failure. There was a lawsuit over the stealing of intellectual property between these two companies.

Oh, and as Jason said, its the strip that eats up your clutch. For a circuit car, an overly aggressive clutch isn't really required. As long as you have something that holds the static torque your making, you're more or less fine. Drag launches are what really lunch on clutches.

I've been looking at the carbonetics carbon clutch (its not carbon carbon however) but after reading a bit, I've a couple of concerns. Main one is the need to heat the clutch up before giving it a hard launch (or it'll tend to just slip) by slipping the clutch for 3 seconds, with 30 second pauses, a number of times. Seems like a huge freak around to me. I've also heard a couple of stories of their longetivity not being what they are meant to be, though this may have been due to incorrect break in (Yes, they have a specific 2000km breakin time). I'm assuming they would also be very expensive to have rebuilt when they wear out, as new floater & pressure plates would be required, as well as the friction plates, I don't think you can really just machine down these plates like in normal clutches, where you usually get 3-4 uses out of them before they are below spec.

Thats right, for a good drag launch, as I said, your meant to warm it up by slipping it several times for a small duration. All the mobs I've seen also seem to recommend a triple plate (not available for mr2) for drag use. I don't know if there is a reason for this or not. From what I can make out, carbons hold the power once they warm, but alot of slippage can occur on engagement. Although they are more durable then a metallic, slipping will still bring their life to a premature ending. Im thinking just the clutchmaster unit as I can have it rebuild here in Australia. The Carbonetics or RPS Carbon Carbon will be more of a hassle to have rebuilt. With the RPS clutch I think you've got to send ti back to the manufacturer (in USA). That'd be a ba$1ard.

I can also get them cheap (<$1500). I've contacted them already and they are quick to respond. There flywheel works on the 5S-FE crank and they've been more then helpful with all my enquiries.