Well, engine arrived at port on Tuesday and looks like I'll have it late this week or early next week.

This monday gone was an RDO, so I spent it gathering up little bits and pieces for my car such as gaskets and what not. Got my hands on the idle air control valve I'll be using. The throttlebody i'll be using (75mm edelbrock racing throttlebody) doesn't have allocation for an idle air valve, so I'll be using a standalone item fitted on some Fords. I also spent a little time doing up an injector loom so that if required I can switch between different injectors with relative ease.

I've got to wire the whole car, including cutting and splicing parts of the old loom into the system in order to run the dash cluster and other bits and pieces that have sensory in the engine bay. About 10 months ago I stripped the factory loom right down (pulled all the conduit & tape of it) and labelled everything that I needed to keep. Took me a while to sort it out, and its going to take me a while again after all this time to recall what needs to stay and go... Great.

I also picked up my whiteline sway bars on Monday and my phenolic resin intake manifold gasket arrived in the mail.

Going to be a busy few weeks ahead getting the car back together and running once more :)

Some pictures:

Injector loom trial fit on rail:


Injector loom complete - made a bit of a bungle of the connector bit, didn't get all the wires going there perfect length so the heat shrink isn't nice and smooth, oh well



Ford idle air control valve:



Intake manifold gaskets (one is a mates):



Whiteline sway bars (front & rear adjustable):






Have ordered all my required silicone joiners and all my gearbox bits (synchros & bearings), misc gaskets & bolts are currently on there way from USA. They should be here in a few days (early next week) so just in time to get that sorted for the lot to go back into the car.

Will keep everyone posted.

Oh yeah, it wont be running until I can find a lower t-belt cover & crank pulley, so anyone who can help out there, I'd appreciate it...

Haven't tried road and track, they are constantly trying to get ahold of timing belt covers themselves (I assume for engines they are building) Im not sure how much they are from toyota, should probably check. Think I could probably get them both for around $100. I think the crank pulley is fairly expensive from Toyota though.

i love it bro,

im thinking of doing a similar water-to-air IC setup, just a few Q's.
what radiator is that? was it easy to fit? where are you putting the IC core?

dude, isn't there rules about posting pornography on this forum.

now i need a towel.

lol.

but seriously. this is going to be a very sexy s-dub, with the power to back it up

Whats happening with the paint, is the guy going to buy new paint and let you use his booth for free? because if it was anyones fault it would be the booth. ( unless you walked in there and a gust of wind blew in as you opened the door[B)] )

Hey Lammi, no, no free use of booth, no free paint. Paint is already sorted (pretty much, few areas to fix). Paid about another 4-500 for paint, yay. My mate is painting it at his house, piece by piece. I've been up and had a look, everything has come up bloody good, maybe a spec of dust here or there that'll buff right out. Funny how hes doing a better job in his back yard basically then was done in a spray booth that cost me $400 to hire. Lets not go there anyway, moving along.

I received my $600 worth of parts from Toyota (ex USA, much much cheaper).


Top row - left to right: *hidden in packaging* 2 alternator mount studs, ball bearing type thing used to retain the shifter shafts in the gearbox (when I pulled my box apart, one was missing), interior clips, 2x exhaust gasket halves, 2nd synchroniser ring set (dual synchro cones (comes with reverse gear also, can't buy the rings seperately)

Bottom row - left to right: rear input shaft bearing, front input shaft bearing, front/rear (can't remember) output shaft bearing, front/rear (the other one) output shaft bearing, set bolt for alternator (mine went missing somewhere over the last 10 months).




Top row, left to right: Bolt for ring gear on differential (I had to get the non-lsd sized bolts for my quaife LSD. I got some off an open diff I removed from a spare tranny but one of them had been crossthreaded on assembly, I actually just picked one up from toyota yesterday because I forgot I ordered them from Lithia toyota, opps, have as spare now), exhaust manifold nuts, random hose that runs parallel to the main fuel tank fill hose, 7 torx nuts for rear bearing retainer plate in transmission, crank pulley bolt, 2x nuts to attach the shifter devices off the transmission onto the tranny casing (borrowed mine to Joust from these forums and never seen them since and been unable to get into contact with him)

Bottom row, left to right:
Bolt to attach dizzy to the head (I believe, I am missing one so ordered another), third gear dual synchro ring set w/ hub sleeve (once again, come together, can't buy seperately), other differential carrier bearing (already have the one for the other side of the diff here)

In regards to writing the car off. Well, I dont think it'd happen, but to tell you the truth, im not too worried. Cars like mine aren't worth insuring. I'd be better off just having third party property and in the event of a major accident buying another chassis (NA or Turbo, whatever came up cheapest) and transplant all the gear. There is so much money in the modifications. Even if I could manage to insure it for $30000 it owes me at least $60000 and the insurance company keeps your wrecked car in the event of a writeoff.

Got a few hours to muck around on my engine tonight. Didn't seem to accomplish too much, spent most of the time removing the exhaust studs for a quick coat of antisieze so removal would be easier if I ever have to remove them in the future. There were already helicoils in a couple of the stud holes so I figured I should do this. Cleaned up a couple of old bits off the other engine and transplanted em. Worked out that it was a shiat load easier to fit the exhaust manifold with the coolant bypass pipe removed. A couple of the nuts are in arsehole positions.

Anyway, guess I'm fairly happy with my efforts for today. Input and output shaft out of my transmission are ready for pickup at the gearbox shop, with new second and third synchros fitted, and a thicker 3rd gear select fit snap ring to bring the clearances back into spec (was @ 0.41, max spec of 0.4mm). Hopefully have that reassembled over the weekend and have everything bolted up to the engine, ready for fitment into my car (which should return to my house this weekend with any luck). Then the real work begins with the custom bracketry for mounting of assorted poo poo (W2A system) and custom wiring of the Autronic SM4 ECU.