Yeah you'd need an ANDRA approved cage. Keeping it street legal becomes a bit more difficult. But people do it so it must be possible. IIRC 140mph+ and you require a parachute, you don't have to use it, but it has to be there.

I dont expect to go 140mph lol. I was having a brief look I think the other night and for 10.99 in a hardtop monocoque chassis (ie, my MR2) you only need a rollbar (which has to be ANDRA inspected) with side intrusion protection on driver side. For a Targa I think you need a full on cage. Its like alot of CAMS sanctioned events. A hardtop would only require a roll bar, whilst a targa would require a full cage. I think you also need a ballistics blanket (or proper bellhousing shield if commercially available) when running quicker then 11 seconds. Think you also need open wheel nuts (so you can see the amount of thread engaged) when running in the 10's.

If I bust a 10 I'll gladly take a walk :D

Well, got it tuned, made some power, and then I pulled it straight apart again.

After running into fuel vapourlock on a hot day just driving around sedately (took around about 45 mins of driving until the fuel had soaked up enough heat from the interheater (fuel pump) to start causing issues. It gave me the right poo poos that day (35 degree day so the problem became alot more evident) so I parked it in the garage and didn't start it since. I was just going to drive it to work (about 2 mins away) on the Monday following that but when doing my post start checks (hahaha, joys of modified cars)I noticed fuel was weeping a little from the NPT fitting on the end of the fuel rail. This put a nail in the coffin and I just left the car to sit for a week or so.

This week I finally conjured up a little motivation to start pulling things apart. Out came the pump, and the fuel tank (prime opportunity I guess to fit a wolfkatz pickup I've had lying around). I was always a little worried about the depth of the pickup. It was a little hard to get an exact measurement for the length required so I pretty much guessed. After comparing with the depth of the wolfkatz pickup I was fairly spot on!



Ah well, pretty much the entire fuel system is out. I am slowly working out how to mount the tank up on the other side of the chassis. I don't have too much room to play with which makes it all quite difficult. I was going to remove the rail to tighten the leaking fitting on it but I am slowly thinking it'll be easier to do it on the car. To get the rail off I'll need to butcher an allen key (make it nice and short) to get onto the socket cap bolts holding the rail on. Then I am not even sure if it'd come off. Dependant on how far the injectors sit in the head I might have to remove the intake manifold. No thanks.

Some people seem to beach about getting the tank out. First two times I'd removed tanks they were with the engine out, piece of cake. This time the engine was in place so I was thinking I'd have these terrible dramas that everyone experiences. The only dramas I had were getting the fuel out of the tank (it ended up all over me and the ground, haha) cause the tank was 3/4 full. The rest of the process was easy as pie and took very little time.

Ah well, progress is slow, especially when I've only spent an afternoon or two mucking around. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get it all sorted and back together and get to go for a drive some time this weekend and then get it back into the old shed so the next door neighbours cat can stop molesting my paint work. I'll have to remember to refill the coolant before I go starting it.

Ah well, at the moment its sitting on stands yet AGAIN. Depressing.

Haha, I had to grind out part around the opening (the lip around the solid flange) to get the original pickup in. Pulled the pump out now and its starting to oxidise a little after about 6 months or so. Don't really like the idea of the tank rusting out so might spray some cold galv or something on the area before the tank goes back in.

What I should have done was used the pump to drain the tank, but I didn't even think about having to drain it until after I removed the pump and related fuel lines. First up was going to use the drain plug, started cranking it open and fuse was just going nowhere, was no way I was going to be getting it into the couple of 20L drums I had laying around. So I closed it up, turned on the air compressor, stuck the line off the tank that used to go to the pump into the top of one of the drums, and pressurised the tank, the fuel then began siphoning out, sweet as. The first drum filled and I had issues getting the 90 degree -10 hose end out of the top of the drum and into the second drum, as such, the drum overflowed and about 5-10L of fuel went all over me and the drive way, haha, I then got it into the second drum. Altogether I ended up salvaging 30-35L of fuel.

Haha, half the wheels are bent on the trolley. Thats what happens when you are dropping engines + gearboxes onto it :D That poo poos heavy.

Nah, the tune I am talking about is the original tune I got a few weeks ago. Its running killer rich at the moment up high. Having a look under the car and the flex pipe is covered in some nice black soot from out of the screamer pipe. I've only covered about 100km in it since tuning, haha. He wanted to see the car again after I fixed up the fueling so it'll be going back for further refinement then. I don't even know if I'll bother playing with the cam shafts. I am happy with the power its making now. I'll get a race gas tune at some point (after I reeducate myself with the drag track) and go do a few passes with some race gas still in the tank and see what it is capable of.

Its time I start spending my cash elsewhere so about the only further modifications it'll see is a rollbar w/ built in harness bar to accept this Takata harness I've got here. I also still need to get a rail for the bride bucket seat that is awaiting fitment.

Went to dyno today for some further refinement in the hope of going to Willowbank tonight. Alas, it was rained out. On the positive side the tuning went relatively well. With a couple of PSI less boost and a much richer AFR the car went within 10 or 15 HP of its output when it was first tuned. After making a few refinements and putting a little more boost back into it (24psi up to around 6500 or 7000rpm, after which mani pressure must overpower the gate as it wont go above 21psi). We added about 150mL of octane booster to a full tank of gas before undertaking the higher boost runs. Whether or not this ended up being required I don't know, due to the drop off in boost in the top end.

Car put down 502.4rwhp like this.

Anyway, further info another time, I am going to bed.

Great results! If that's your street tune you're working on, I generally don't like using octane booster when tuning. Obviously in that guise, the detonation threshold goes up, but when the time comes that you run on regular 98RON pump (which almost everyone does), she might start pinging. Ideally you'd use the same fuel as you would everyday, then add octane booster when you foresee some serious fangage (track/drags etc), to add a safety margin. Anyway, good see you're giving that motor a thorough workout.

quote:

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Originally posted by MR2QIK

Great results! If that's your street tune you're working on, I generally don't like using octane booster when tuning. Obviously in that guise, the detonation threshold goes up, but when the time comes that you run on regular 98RON pump (which almost everyone does), she might start pinging. Ideally you'd use the same fuel as you would everyday, then add octane booster when you foresee some serious fangage (track/drags etc), to add a safety margin. Anyway, good see you're giving that motor a thorough workout.

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Yeah, we added a bit of extra octane booster in order to add a bit more boost just for the night at the drags. I have a map for without booster. The amount of booster added would have added about 2 points to the ron rating if the bottle was accurate. Issue come about that the setup wouldn't except any more boost in the high end as is anyway. I'll have to wait till I get my hands on the charts, but the boost was dropping off after 7000 for sure, so peak power was probably only made on 21psi. At the moment I only have the wastegate connected to a single port, I dont have the solenoid connected to boost the top and bottom port to allow more holding pressure. At the moment it only uses the spring to hold it closed (14psi). After which, exhaust mani backpressure will push the gate open.

Whats this mean? I am getting more then 14psi of backpressure in the exhaust manifold. This is probably a factory of both the turbine housing starting to become restrictive and my dodgy exhaust perhaps causing some restriction (it snakes around ALOT). How can I rectify this without changing to a larger turbo? Well, I could connect the wastegate via the other method, where boost pressure is applied to the top of the wastegate, assisting the spring in holding the gate shut. I can also fit a heavier spring (21psi) however I think I'll go with the other boost solenoid hookup method first, as I'd like to have the ability to run <21psi at times.

Anyway, doesn't feel any quicker, however, I account that to the fact it now has rather noticable traction issues in second gear as well, where as before, with a bit of heat in the tyres it seemed to barely hold traction in second on a nice flat surface. Now it heads for the redline.

Anywho, will be nice to get some good weather and get it to the track!