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-Totenkopf-'s black SW20 (56k beware!)

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-Totenkopf-
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RE: -Totenkopf-'s black SW20 (56k beware!) 2008/06/25 20:23:33 (permalink)
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Was lucky and got the PP lid off someone selling one locally.

Yeah, after I rang you Justin and yuo said you had things to do my day went to poo poo anyway.

Exert from my MR2OC post:

What a weekend.

Full of ups and downs.

On the up side the car runs, and seems to do so quite well. On the down side, I have some serious heat management issues.

I cooked the paint real bad on the phoenix power engine lid. It doesn't seem to radiate heat as well in traffic as the factory lid. Just traps it in there and it builds up and causes the paint to peel off/bubble up.

I was driving to a mates house to assist on his car. On the highway it was fine, I got into suburban area and after about 10 minutes of 60km/hr driving, and lights and traffic and what have you I saw the paint on the engine lid bubbling up in the rear view mirror, I decided to pull over and investigate to ensure I didn't have an engine fire on my hands. I pulled over, stopped the engine, and opened the engine lid. Saw the cracked paint and assessed any other damage. I noticed the plastic 5SFE location (5sfe block in use) dip stick handle had melted off, it was about 1" from the collector of the exhaust manifold so it wasn't too suprising. The black split conduit containing the fuel pump power wiring and a few other bits and pieces (o2 input etc to the ecu) had also melted, luckily the cables therein were fine. I went to start the car up to drive the remaining 1km to my mates place. I could no longer get fuel pressure. The radiant heat had obviously caused vapourlock whilst there was no fuel flowing in the lines and no airflow in the bay. I walked to my mates place and returned later. Was able to realise fuel pressure again and drive it to his place.

Was quite unsuccessful in what we were attempting to do on his car (another story all together). I got a heap of aluminium foil out and made some makeshift heatshields to get me the 50km home without causing much more damage. I also richened up the mixtures about 10% to try lower EGT's. They were running at what would probably be considered a good tune before that, at around 14-14.5:1 at cruise and between 11.5 and 12 under load (up to 7psi). Now they sit around 13.5 @ cruise and 11:1 under load, there is still an arseload of excess heat being generated though.

Today a went to a mates shop, he was nice enough to let me borrow his turbo blanket (a little oversized for my turbo, I think its for a T04Z sized turbo) and also gave me some scraps of heat wrap to try shield the fuel pump a little with. I also ordered up some ACL heat shielding (http://www.aclperformance.com.au/prod_heatshield.htm) that I'll fab up a heat shield over the manifold and in front of the fuel pump with. The 700x580mm sheet was around $70AUD, so not too expensive. I'll probably invest in my own turbo blanket as well. I think if I had of had one fitted from the get go the paint damage wouldn't have been done.

I also think a major contribution is airflow, at speed I dont seem to have issues, in traffic or low speeds the engine bay cooks. Im going to invest in a shroud and some fans when money permits to help move some air out of the engine bay. Will probably also fit a 7.5" fan to the oil cooler in the sidevent (factory IC location) to help get some air through there also.

Today I spent 4-5hrs refitting the firewall heatshields (which was quite a huge job thanks to the turbo and other bits getting in the way) which required removing half the gear in the bay to get back in. Also fixed up a couple of minor oil leaks from a fitting on the sandwich plate and a fitting on the oil thermostat block. These seem to be fixed now, cross fingers. Refitting these heat shields should help with fuel temperature and prevent another event of vapour lock.

Getting away from the issues, the car appears to be performing quite well. My IAT temps however around or just above 30 degrees at a ~25 degree ambient. They heat up more when the car is at a standstill (due to radiant heat into the pipes etc) then when the car is on song (only running 7psi of boost at the moment) so the intercooler seems to be operating satisfactorily.

The car pulls nice and hard and has bundles of torque. More torque then I expected actually, and the largish throttlebody means its a bit wild to drive, not being used to such small throttle movements bringing on the power so hard. I almost landed the car on a traffic island tonight after it got a little enthusiastic turning right at a stop sign. Either way, its making arse loads more power @ 7psi then it used to make on 7psi, I'd really of had to try to make it kick sideways running 7psi previously (same turbo mind you) whereas it seemed to let loose all too easily (and somewhat caught me by suprise) tonight. I was only running crappy cheapy 205 wide tyres before as well. Now i've got a lot more rubber on the ground (275 RT615 Azenis) and it still let go so easily. The quaife diff seems to behave slightly differently to how I remember the factory LSD behaving as well, which had me a little by suprise when the rear end let go.

All in all, minus the obvious heat issues, all appears to be going well. A few rogue noises (main one of concern I think is to do with the flex pipe being up against the sump and causing rattly grindy noise on engine braking). This used to fit, however, with the block girdle there is now no clearance, so I'll have to have it modified.

Might throw it on the dyno for a base run @ 7psi with current less then perfect tune once I sort out my heat issues to get a baseline value on power.

A few pictures -

Crackly paint :


Incinerated plastic dip stick handle:


Current situation of affairs, make shift heat management :





Got my hands on some ACL heat shielding material today, so going to make some heatshields out of that, buy my own turbo blanket and hope for the best! :)

-Totenkopf-
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RE: -Totenkopf-'s black SW20 (56k beware!) 2008/08/07 19:07:45 (permalink)
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Well, few updates.

May have found part of the issue for huge heat in the turbo/exhaust manifold. I'd forgotten to disable the advance clamp I set when checking timing. As such, the car was running no more then 10 degrees of timing. It should have been running between 35-40 degrees in some regions. I've removed this clamp and the car drives very much different. The boost doesn't come in as hard as it did (was like running mini antilag before)- its much smoother now. I haven't done any conclusive tests in regards to heat generation - I haven't had the time. I've made up a couple of heat shields, one for the exhaust manifold and one for the downpipe. I'm yet to mount the downpipe shield yet as I'm having a means of mounting fabricated as we speak. A water feed line to the turbo (braided item) melted as it was touching the exhaust manifold. The rubber more or less oozed out of the braiding. I replaced this with a different fitting and some new hose to direct it away from the manifold.

The ceramic coating on the downpipe is delaminating for some reason. I emailed the guys at competition coatings and they offered to recoat the item free of charge! Wasn't really expecting it after previous issues I've had with people who screwed up. Big thumbs up to them.

Car is booked in for corner weighting and alignment monday week. Trying to chase down some crash bolts before then to dial a little camber in the rear. If anyone knows any Aus sources or the Toyota P/N's let me know.

Current state of affairs - dire need of cleaning up and polishing required:

Enigma
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RE: -Totenkopf-'s black SW20 (56k beware!) 2008/08/07 19:23:00 (permalink)
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off the hook

kameleon
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RE: -Totenkopf-'s black SW20 (56k beware!) 2008/08/07 22:14:59 (permalink)
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nice heatsheilding material. just made mine from the same stuff the other day.
WIDEMR
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RE: -Totenkopf-'s black SW20 (56k beware!) 2008/08/07 23:06:54 (permalink)
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Yeah you know how i feel about your car

And yeah nice folding on the acl stuff, better then my old one, but mine was funny shape
jupiter
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RE: -Totenkopf-'s black SW20 (56k beware!) 2008/09/07 09:45:52 (permalink)
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I have a feeling, that if Totenkopf takes this on a pretty hardcore racing track, and flogs it. I mean, really races the living crap out of this car.

That the chassis will bend because of the sheer power this setup would bring.
I cbf looking through the rest of the pages and finding your specs.
What is it? 400rkw plus? I'm not a turbo guy so maybe i'm wrong. But im fairly sure this thing would rip a road in half

bustin
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RE: -Totenkopf-'s black SW20 (56k beware!) 2008/09/07 18:08:52 (permalink)
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It'll go to Willowbank drags for sure, so maybe engine mounts? driveshafts?[}:)]
Still keen for a ride though, esp. when it's tuned.
Can't wait to see the dyno numbers.
I better buy some new jocks for the occasion.

(bustin casts spell to remove any possible breakage jinx)
-Totenkopf-
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RE: -Totenkopf-'s black SW20 (56k beware!) 2008/09/07 18:13:33 (permalink)
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Engine mounts should be ok, they are solid poly mounts. Driveshafts - I upgraded the CV joints, the axles however could sheer I guess. Considering I probably wont have drag radials on though they SHOULD be ok. All going well nothing would break.

Track work is at least another month or so off I reckon.
dRu-
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RE: -Totenkopf-'s black SW20 (56k beware!) 2008/09/07 23:36:02 (permalink)
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when i see a project like this, it motivates me even more. great job, i hope your satisfied with the results... i would be
Enigma
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RE: -Totenkopf-'s black SW20 (56k beware!) 2008/07/21 23:39:55 (permalink)
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I'll be sure to talk to you in 7 months time tote, when im about to do this to my car, the RTA have deprived me of the chance to axe myself in an insanely powered car for far too long, this is what I want. hahahaha *manic grin*
-Totenkopf-
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RE: -Totenkopf-'s black SW20 (56k beware!) 2008/07/23 19:15:41 (permalink)
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Once again, I think I got freaked over. Why is it anything I get someone else to do they charge me excessively (always quite an amount above the estimate) and do a freakin shonky job. Only person I've found I can trust is Lee @ Thomas4Parts.

Anyway, monday the car went in for corner weighting and wheel alignment. When collecting the car he told me he couldn't get as much camber adjustment out of the right hand side on both the front and rear, could get 2.5 degrees neg on the passenger side and only 1 degree on the driver up front, and 2.8 on the passenger and 1.6 on the driver for the rear. He also said the car was meant to somewhat leaning towards the drivers side, as the driver side was heavier and it was meant to be lower on the heavier side for some reason. I couldn't quite get why and his explanation was, well, poo poohouse. He asked me if the car had taken hit to the right hand front and rear that may cause lack of camber, I said not that I was aware of. Im 99.99999999% sure the rear is accident free (i've stripped the car right back for christ sake) and that I'm pretty sure the front had a frontal at some point but it didn't appear to extend past the radiator area.

I handed over $500 ($150 more then his estimate) and went on my way.

Driving home the car kept scrubbing on left hand corners, the wheels were too close to the car on the right hand side (lower side).

I got home and took some measurements to see if the strut towers were out of square, everything seemed to be quite square to me so I had a look and measured how much lower the driver side was. At points 1.7M apart it was roughly 30mm lower! This equates to around a 1 degree lean towards the right. Guess what this means? It'll had approx 1 degree pos camber to the RHS and 1 degree neg camber to the LHS.

I say approximately as suspension geometry also comes into play which means if the car were sitting parallel with the ground it'd probably be spot on.

Anyway, I called a couple of people for third party opinions and they all think its dead right wrong. I also gave him a call back and expressed that I didn't think it was right, he said it was. The conversation seemed to be going nowhere but in circles and he obviously wasn't going to admit that there was any issue with his work, so I left it there. He also still has a couple of my possessions (near new solid top mounts I had him swap out for some camber adjustable items) so I dont want to get him too irrate at this point.

Anyway, its going to cost me ANOTHER $120 just to get it put on some scales again. I'm going to take it somewhere and get there opinion. If they are willing to go to bat for me and say he'd set it up wrong then I am going to offer him the opportunity to correct his errors, or pay the third party to fix it. I can't even really drive it as is, any left hand corner with any momentum causes nice scrubbing. Im honestly at the point now where im so sick of being freaked around with people that im going to bloody go postal. What amazes me that for a suspension expert he didn't even consider that the car being on the piss would be why camber readings on the left and right hand side varied so much, even when tyre to strut clearance and all other factors were the same between sides. It took me 30 seconds to consider this. He is an absolute drongo?

Heres a pic of it as it sits. On the piss. End rant... for now.

Tom Tucker
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RE: -Totenkopf-'s black SW20 (56k beware!) 2008/07/23 19:29:30 (permalink)
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Sorry to hear mate. I can only say I feel your pain. So many frigging monkeys out there that shouldn't be let near a car charging top dollar to screw you. I had a similar thing happen when I went to get a simple allignment. It seems too difficult for some people to make it even all round despite full adjustability and a bloody electronic camber measuring device strapped to the wheel!
helena
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RE: -Totenkopf-'s black SW20 (56k beware!) 2008/07/23 19:39:12 (permalink)
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Hey "Totenkopf-"

Nice car... I would also take it back, and get them to fix what they didnt do right.. They have to do it...

Also You have one hectick engine bay there...


lmt
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RE: -Totenkopf-'s black SW20 (56k beware!) 2008/07/23 21:32:04 (permalink)
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-did he ask for your weight when you took it in for corner weighting?

-did he ask you what weight distribution you wanted?

-did he ask you how the car is behaving and what you want it to do instead?

-these are general what a corner weighting suspension place should ask you.


Honestly, unless you circuit tracking your car, and have a strong preference with weight distribution or how you want the car to behaves. Your wasting your money.

my experience has been with a close friend who does this for a living. normally spend 5hrs doing track cars. There are multi test drives and back on the machine to have all the suspension settle after camber toe shifts. and re weight. You be surprise how much weight shifts after a camber toe change after a drive and a complete weight change has to be done.





evl_132
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RE: -Totenkopf-'s black SW20 (56k beware!) 2008/07/23 22:34:24 (permalink)
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So when are you going to post pics of the car side on so we can see your wheels?
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