Maybe a dumb question about rear AW11 upgrade

Don't some people use the SW20 brake for the rears?

But the 22V SW20 calipers don't need modification, they bolt straight up!

gen 3 rear calipers + aw11 front discs + 5/6mm spacer = profit

What is the legality issue?

True, the discs are no larger, but they are vented and the additional pad area helps push the brake bias back a bit (much needed).

quote:

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Originally posted by Cubits

But the 22V SW20 calipers don't need modification, they bolt straight up!

gen 3 rear calipers + aw11 front discs + 5/6mm spacer = profit

What is the legality issue?

True, the discs are no larger, but they are vented and the additional pad area helps push the brake bias back a bit (much needed).

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+1

quote:

---

Originally posted by Cubits

But the 22V SW20 calipers don't need modification, they bolt straight up!

gen 3 rear calipers + aw11 front discs + 5/6mm spacer = profit

What is the legality issue?

True, the discs are no larger, but they are vented and the additional pad area helps push the brake bias back a bit (much needed).

---

All I'd read on a SW rear conversion was that you needed to cut/weld a caliper up, I'm guessing that's a different SW caliper though? If this is the case then I am preeeetty keen.

There's lots of discussion on MR2OC about it. There is a fairly good range of adjustable valves available for the mr2, but you need to get one with the right pipe diameters/thread and with the correct knee point! I had the info somewhere... i'll try and dig it up.

Before i go the bigger rear brakes i'm going to remove the standard valve completely as a test (cheap and easy mod). I'm fairly sure it will be completely safe and still a little front-heavy for my preference.



Edit: Just one thing. I don't care what you read, or who you hear it from, NEVER put a bias valve in the front braking circuit! When it comes to panic braking, this is the single most dangerous mod you can make to a car! Read up on proportioning valve "knees" and you'll see why!

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_proportioning_valves.shtml

I know that one of these wilwoods works, but i can't remember which. I do know you need to use adapters to make it fit! :p

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderValves.aspx

If you have an mr2oc account, this thread is pretty good (but discard any talk of a front-mounted bias valve, it's internet nonsense):

http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=242742&page=1&pp=30

You could get either of those wilwood rotary knob style valves, then chop the ends off the lines and fit the 3/8" 24 nuts and reflare. The top one has 3/8" outputs whereas the lower one has NPT with 3/8" adapters. Might as well forgo the adapters. :)

It is possible to install a valve without having to chop/flare the lines. If you get a Tilton AN3-fitted prop valve and use (EARLS Part# 989538ERL) AN3 to 10x1mm adapters, you can just plug-n-play! Stick a t-piece in the top and replace the bottom half of the old prop valve with that.

http://www.earls.com.au/home

Edit: Just looking in there, the tilton valve appears to come in 10x1.0mm (the toyota fittings spec!). If so, that is absolutely the easiest valve to install, no adapters required! I'll have to give them a call soon.