MANDALAY
MR2 Deity
- Total Posts : 666
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- Joined: 2011/04/07 19:51:15
- Location: CHELTENHAM VICTORIA Australia
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Next i cut the washer bottle front section where it bolts to the body. This was needed as it closes the gap of another plastic panel and also provides a mounting point for the fender liner  Plastic panel in place, Clears the filler neck also you can see how the HE is away from the liner out line  My hoses have been made for the front main HE and should pick them up next week
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MANDALAY
MR2 Deity
- Total Posts : 666
- Scores: 41
- Reward points: 2320
- Joined: 2011/04/07 19:51:15
- Location: CHELTENHAM VICTORIA Australia
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Put the Supra TT coolant overflow bottle.  The overflow exits and the base of the car thru a grommet to the outside And drilled the hole for the hose to come into the engine compartment. Added a grommet which in actual fact is a modified isolator.  Doing this mod allowed me to fully utilize the area where the OEM bottle is. At least this will be easier to see the level than the OEM position But since it has a float switch ill run the wires into the consol that way ill never have to pull the carpet back.
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MANDALAY
MR2 Deity
- Total Posts : 666
- Scores: 41
- Reward points: 2320
- Joined: 2011/04/07 19:51:15
- Location: CHELTENHAM VICTORIA Australia
- Status: offline
For those that don't remember well it was nearly 3 years ago :) I had a jig made for a custom hose for the A/W inter cooler , well also the one for the vent on the engine. But since i changed the setup with the 2nd HE with fan and also a much bigger water pump i had the pipe modified to suit and the hose made. Its actually 2 sections made as one which i will cut. It was cheaper this way as i get charged for only one. Out of most of the things i have done this is on the top 5 of the list as it really makes the HE disappear and look OEM. Pipes hanging out and not angles to clear obstacles doesn't look clean IMO.  This is half of the pipe and test for fit. Looks OK 
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MANDALAY
MR2 Deity
- Total Posts : 666
- Scores: 41
- Reward points: 2320
- Joined: 2011/04/07 19:51:15
- Location: CHELTENHAM VICTORIA Australia
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It took some time to get the right positions for the harness but i got there. Remember i have a few more obstacles. Not why i added the 2 aluminum pipes for the A/W system , it makes for a cleaner look but more importantly allows me to feed all the hoses and the main branch of the harness into the boot  Again with the help of Akira i was able to get OEM harness tape again  Just put the top or the air box on so as to work out the length for the hose for the idle control valve and making sure all the wires clear everything and were routed to the correct spot. Its plenty busy behind the the diverter pipe but its too hard to get pictures  The divider will be removed for the engine installation as it is easier to clip the harness to the fuse box and then start adding everything else Nearly complete , only have to add the Turbo clutch slave and she is ready to go in , in about a weeks time  Next i have to change the CV joins of my turbo axles for the CRW ones, Install the new shifter cables and assemble the Turbo hubs. This will be done thru the week.
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MANDALAY
MR2 Deity
- Total Posts : 666
- Scores: 41
- Reward points: 2320
- Joined: 2011/04/07 19:51:15
- Location: CHELTENHAM VICTORIA Australia
- Status: offline
  For those who dont know this is the front layout.  Need to get a tab bigger belt for the SC. All the pulleys are custom. This is because the SC has a 6 PK belt which in turn made all the alternator side out of alignment, hence new idlers , alternator pulley even the A/C pulley. If you look in the past threads you will see how i made them all. So its ready to rock and roll :) But wont be in for a tune till December because of work commitments.
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MANDALAY
MR2 Deity
- Total Posts : 666
- Scores: 41
- Reward points: 2320
- Joined: 2011/04/07 19:51:15
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Made a bracket for the Big Johnson water pump for the A/W system. It has an aluminum base but the bracket is steel. Needed it so as i could go around the charcoal canister of the A/C system. Also allows me to have a mounting point for the Ferrari air horn compressor.  Ready for a last over on the engine this week end as ill be putting it back in next week :)
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MANDALAY
MR2 Deity
- Total Posts : 666
- Scores: 41
- Reward points: 2320
- Joined: 2011/04/07 19:51:15
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Installed the Johnson CM90 water pump for the A/W intercooler. In a verticle position it clears the pop up light and also the entry hose at the bottom will also clear the Inner guard liner :)  Also room for the Ferrari compressor  custom hose is a great fit  Engine all ready to go in :) Next picture of the engine will be when its in
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MANDALAY
MR2 Deity
- Total Posts : 666
- Scores: 41
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- Joined: 2011/04/07 19:51:15
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Just in case anyone ever would install a Rotrex SC this is the oil reservoir that comes with it and the magnetic inline filter that is used. You can see to cool down the oil i use a Setrab oil cooler which has a Spal fan. Next to it is a smaller fan for the engine bay. However with both fans on there is ample cooling. It also helps that the oil reservoir is next to the fans.  Also running hoses but to get over the strut i go to solid lines then back to hose. On the solid line is the temperature probe. This all resides nicely tucked to the right of the car with it slightly being visible when the service panel is put back in place
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MANDALAY
MR2 Deity
- Total Posts : 666
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- Joined: 2011/04/07 19:51:15
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Only issue was that the O2 sensor is too close for my liking to the axle bearing support so i will weld a new bung . This unfortunately caused me not to install the exhaust system. I can do it at home but on a hoist it would of been a sinch. Oh well that was the only thing . Installation went flawlessly , everthing cleared. Adding the axles and new hubs was easy. Everything just glided in. Here are some better shots Engine ready to go in   While lowering the car to the engine i get in the boot and fed the engine harness into the opening of the boot , its so much easier this way  All clear about an inch in the lower section and 2 inches clear higher up  
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MANDALAY
MR2 Deity
- Total Posts : 666
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- Joined: 2011/04/07 19:51:15
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One of the best things with relocating the coolant overflow bottle to the boot is the extra room all around the BOV and WG. Easy to get the hand in there for adjustment :)  Also its very close to the electronic 4 way WG controller. Looped the air lines to allow for engine movement 
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MANDALAY
MR2 Deity
- Total Posts : 666
- Scores: 41
- Reward points: 2320
- Joined: 2011/04/07 19:51:15
- Location: CHELTENHAM VICTORIA Australia
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Beams N/A engine but all the engine threads are there for the Turbo drive train upgrade  New axles with CV upgrade and new complete hubs/carrier/bearings and shields in  New fuel filter in and all the necessary lines connected , coolant/clutch lines etc. Also upgraded the 2 shifter lines to a pair of new turbo ones to match the E153. **** a brick there are many parts to change to go to the E153 Turbo gear box. Admittedly dear when new but its well over $6,000 just for those parts. OK need a few days off and get back to it but will take a few weeks break for work commitments.
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MANDALAY
MR2 Deity
- Total Posts : 666
- Scores: 41
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- Joined: 2011/04/07 19:51:15
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Maybe in a horizontal position the 2 screw clamps with the thin bent metal that came with the Johnson water pump is adequate but i didnt think it would be enough in the verticle position, but hey thats me. Had the day off so i CNC'd my own holder. Used 2 off the shelf clamp and inserted into an rebated aluminium base. Off to the powder coaters
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MANDALAY
MR2 Deity
- Total Posts : 666
- Scores: 41
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- Joined: 2011/04/07 19:51:15
- Location: CHELTENHAM VICTORIA Australia
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In place powder coated  So now back to putting all the connections to the engine. You can see I'm using the charcoal canister, don't know why there are those that delete it. Also where the MAF normally resides it is very close to the coolant neck filler hence why i made the part to attach to the air box and the angled air line to the Idle control valve The WG and BOV totally out of sight   As you can see I'm using the OEM air box. I avoided the temptation to change it as l prefer the OEM look even if i have sacrificed some HP. The inter cooler is also totally out of sight and still have all the space b/w the engine and the car :)  Well thats about it for a couple of weeks as i have work commitments. I needed it at this stage as i have added the coolant and i can let it sit so as to burp out any air
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MANDALAY
MR2 Deity
- Total Posts : 666
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- Joined: 2011/04/07 19:51:15
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So started again, Since i put the A/W intercooler water pump on the other side of the car i also reversed the water flow. As such the hoses to the solid aluminum pipes on the engine had to be reversed. It created a slight problem of interference. So i went to the guys who made my custom hoses and they let me look at several 100 hoses from their inventory. I found a hose with a bend that suited me and presto problem solved :) Its important that the water into the Intercooler be on the side of the air out of the Intercooler. The hose out of the intercooler you can see a water temp sender to monitor water temp out of the intercooler  It looks organized with slack in every hose to allow for engine movement. In that section there are a lot of hoses 8 in total. Engine water out 2 by pass heater hoses 2 A/W hoses Fuel line in/out Oil catch can drain You can also see the custom pedalstal of the OEM Oil Catch Can holder. With the smaller of the 2 air box resonators in place the hoses disappear  Oil Catch Can cradle back on  Oil Catch Can back on with the custom vent lines
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MANDALAY
MR2 Deity
- Total Posts : 666
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- Joined: 2011/04/07 19:51:15
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So for those that are not familiar these are the 2 mandrel bent aluminum pipes that are of the A/W Intercooler system. There are another 2 aluminum sections under the frunk also with rubber hoses connecting them all in the system.  With the hoses there were the custom ones in the front but with the other ones i just looked for off the shelf hoses that would suit and cut the sections that i needed. This way the ID of the hose is kept uniform as they are shaped  Well its all hooked up and as i said man it is so hard to bleed the system so i resorted again to the system i used the first time. I put a valve on my garden hose , disconnected the A/W pipe after the 2 HE . Connected lenghts of hose and turned on the water tap into one hose with the other going into the bucket. Simultaneously i turned on the A/W water pump. This removed all the air to the intercooler and to the front in 5 seconds.. Then i removed the garden hose and allowed the pump to suck water from the bucket. Once i was happy i pinched the those 2 long hoses and reconnected the A/W lines. Once stabilized i added a bottle of Wetter Water. I HATE BLEEDING !!!!!!!!!!!!  I will say this Johnson M90 sure does pack a punch. When i squeeze the hose out of the pump you can feel the pressure
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