With the installation of the new SC and intercooler i wanted more room so i had to find a way to move the overflow coolant bottle. Plus its damn had to see the level anyway
Solution a Supra TT coolant bottle. Perfect shape and also a level indicator which is wired to the cluster light for low oil level as the Beams and subsiquent 3s engines dont have a float in the pan
 
Strangely the rear of the MR2 unlike a lot of cars really doesnt have much metal tags to mount brackets :( Im the last person to drill holes unless absolutely necessary. So i thought i would hang the bracket where the light mount to the body and the tab along the wheel well this way with 2 locations it will be absolutely sturdy.
Lights removed

You can see the 2 grommets that the light uses for 2 screws to screw them down What i did was remove them. There diameter is close to 8 mm. So i got a couple of 8 mm stainless bolts machined the head down to 2 mm then tapped a 4 mm thread in the middle. This way i could use 2 button head stainless bolts to hold down the light

Here you go

Before final fitting ill add a bit of selastic to make sure there is a complete seal
Now it that done and the reason why i did that is to provide 2 mounting locations for the bracket

Now that its all done i will trim the part a lot, powder coat and install.
Tried the OEM carpet fitment and no issues :)

 

Whilst the engine was being worked on i put my attention to other items
 
So after a bit of discussion I'm doing a slight change and i dare say probably the first in a MR2.
No its not the SC but the A/W inter cooler water circulation system.
People might be aware of the modified Corolla reservoir i have in the engine bay. Well i want to remove it . Even tho the bay not being hot never the less its still warm there. Also it simplifies routing the water hoses.
So where to put a reservoir ? I looked in the frunk behind the right light where the ABS relays are but finding a reservoir  to fit is just plain hard after searching the INTERNET and spending 2 days at the wreckers.
Well PWR advised not to have a reservoir as the added water would take longer to cool down.
So what I'm doing/done is to cut the filler neck of the windshield water bottle. Discard the actual bottle then add a fitting to the filler neck to the 2nd Heat exchanger.
Yes a second one that will also have a fan.
Its going in the position under the RH light.
To make extra room there i repositioning the water pump to the LH side.
This way i can even get More direct air to the core.
Ill have the fan come on when the car is stationary and above a certain temp.
This also solves another thing that bothered me with the A/W system , that is when the car is stationary. See when i warm up my car  before i drive the water has warmed up because there is no air circulation

This way i achieve a few objectives.
Removal of the reservoir in the engine bay Have the stationary cooling All covered under the bumper out of sight Nothing to the eye has been modified so looks untouched and OEM :)

Made a mock up out of polystyrene of the radiator and fan to go in the front corner. As always don't fancy drilling holes in the car so there will be a piece of aluminum bolted down using factory tapped holes.
The radiator will then be bolted to it but on rubber isolators.


All cleared  , plastic , bumper and moving arm of the pop up light.

I might have enough room for the bigger pump but only can be 100% sure when i take off the bumper

So i went to see Plazmaman ( intercooler guys ) with my peices to be welded. They said it will be a week at least to go thru the process , welding cool down , pressure test etc. He was truly amazed and has never ever seen air end tanks milled :)
Anyway on to other parts.
Well i had the end water tanks for the second heat exchanger milled. Here you go.
 
Just to explain, 3 nipples. One and two are water in and out. The other one is for the connection to the windscreen water bottle funnel. The 4th opening is for a valve to bleed air out. Thought ild put a tapped thread on one side for a bracket to hold the nozzle for the water spray
Here is the side connecting to the frame of the car. 4 isolating rubbers to allow movement

This is the exit side for the water to travel to the first HE and the bleeding valve

This is the entry side with the inlet at the bottom and the filler nipple

Also received my second HE for the A/W inter cooler
Boy PWR does some great welding :) They also coated it black for me.

And many thanks to Josh at CRW for getting me the Spal fan :) FAST RELIABLE AND THE BEST MATE

From the front you can see the exit line at the top. The inlet is to the side. Half way up it the inlet to the Funnel of the windscreen washer bottle. And on the corner is the bleeding valve
Also on the front is a tapped thread to hold the bracket for the water spray nozzle which i need to add

The Spal fans are great being water proof but the wiring plug isn't , so ill change it to the same Toyota plugs that are used for the engine bay fan.
This second HE was added so as to get better cooling when at idle and more cooling surface area

Put the 2nd HE in place for the test fit and all AOK clears everything

You can see the end of the filler neck that will join up with the HE

Should get the new hoses this week and this section finished

As you know i have a WG being installed.
Since i machined the end tank of the inter cooler where it will be located and on the cold side, i machined the matting surface to embed an o-ring to guarantee a seal.

Waste Gate and BOV added

Nice big 38 mm bypass hose for off throttle pressure release

So now i have to finish the wiring loom as it has to be added before i can put the Inlet Manifold on