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BiGH's MR2.

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MRTurbo
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RE: BiGH's MR2. 2012/03/07 16:52:06 (permalink)
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Woo hoo! so it is! gotta love a day off work and get paid for it :D
now this weekend...
fix leaky valve in back wheel then 'scrub in' my new rear Fed RS-Rs in the hills :P
 

1990 SW20 GT 3S-GTE Targa
2001 Honda CBR600F4i

TIPSIDUECE
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RE: BiGH's MR2. 2012/03/07 21:12:38 (permalink)
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congrats on selling the supra! more money to sink into the mr2? hehe
im running the microtech lt10s and got rid of the airflow meter. a friend of mine also runs d same ecu on his duece with a modified /built engine.

Why do people say "grow some balls"? Balls are weak and sensitive if you really wanna get tough, grow a vagina! Those things take a pounding!
bigh
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RE: BiGH's MR2. 2012/03/08 10:54:19 (permalink)
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Thanks - no I just bought a new pushbike, and the rest is going to a house fund! :) need to be kind of responsible in my old age lol.
 
Oh nice :) yay for getting rid of the AFM! :) 

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RE: BiGH's MR2. 2012/03/08 10:56:09 (permalink)
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that's one thing I'd definitely look at - fabricating a block off shroud for the air filter, and piping to it. Thinking about it- it *shouldn't* be that hard to do actually... could use AFM adaptors to mount a intake hose on the blockoff plates :)
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RE: BiGH's MR2. 2012/03/08 13:32:41 (permalink)
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this is what I think I need another one of:
 
coolant temp sensor (ECTS) I've damaged the clip and it's quite likely the wires are touching (It's unliekly this is contributing to my electrical problem tho)
 
 

TIPSIDUECE
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RE: BiGH's MR2. 2012/03/08 19:38:33 (permalink)
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the labels on this diagram is actually wrong, its d other way around
cold start injector time switch = bigger sensor with black plastic connector
coolant temp sensor = smaller sensor with green plastic connector

Why do people say "grow some balls"? Balls are weak and sensitive if you really wanna get tough, grow a vagina! Those things take a pounding!

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RE: BiGH's MR2. 2012/03/08 20:04:16 (permalink)
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well i think we have a winner here! Big thanks tips..
 
interesting day - came home and checked the one ground wire i did have to unconnect - the one on the side engine panel, took it off sanded the nut, etc and removed the rust, reinstalled did the following. I had manually charged the battery with a charger.
 
12.48v with car off
14.58v with car on
ok that seems normal.
now here's the kicker. Realised that my turbo timer has a voltage meter display, so set that going ran the car in the driveway for about 2 mins, and went for a drive, 4 mins into the drive. 
car showed 14v no dramas,  driving along thinking, oh yay i've fixed the issue, then once the car had warmed up to normal operating temp, the voltage dropped suddenly. kind of like BANG down to 12.3v and falling. started to see 11.8v etc. 
 
got home and the battery voltage was still on 12v.
 
now after hearing that my broken sensor thing is the cold start injector time switch - could this somehow be related?
 
i'm going to set the car charging again today, and then just run the car in the driveway letting it warm up that way instead of driving and then test it.
 
Ok to make matters more interesting I went out there, mid way through this post, and checked the voltage with the car sitting there:
OFF: 12.5v
On: 12.3v
 
so looks like for some reason when the car warms up the alternator stops working? or something is f'ing it up?!?! weird!
 
 
edit: bit of googling suggests it's the alternator itself or the voltage reg... need to check if our cars have these. it's probably cooked!
 
 
 
post edited by bigh - 2012/03/08 20:16:40
TIPSIDUECE
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RE: BiGH's MR2. 2012/03/08 22:57:35 (permalink)
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no worries mate,  aniway the cold start injector time switch controls the cold start injector located beneath the TB during cold starts, it doesnt affect charging system of the mr2. if its broken then its not trigering the cold start injector to spray extra fuel to help with cold starts.
with regards to ur charging issue, it sounds like the alternators not charging the battery properly. it could be either the alternator(yes it has a built in volt reg) is cooked or on its way out or the electrical path from alternator thru to ur earthing  pionts to d cars chassis all d way to ur battery is buggered. check the connection of the negative cable from battery to d chassis (clean or replace it if necessary) for starters. then check and clean all the other earth cable points and see what happens

Why do people say "grow some balls"? Balls are weak and sensitive if you really wanna get tough, grow a vagina! Those things take a pounding!
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RE: BiGH's MR2. 2012/03/09 10:12:59 (permalink)
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ahh cools -yep that makes sense considering it took like two seconds longer to start.
 
yeah there is a high pitched sound coming from the alternator... it's not looking good! :(  
I'll burn some time this weekend testing the alt I think too... should be able to multimeter direct from the points after checking the cables etc.  I didn't originally think it was the alt because it charged nicely when cold... but yeah. tis weird.  
 
not sure there could possibly be a ground point that insulates when it warms up? :P either way will clean them too.
 
will probably just end up taking it to a garrage and get them to swap it over. being turbo it's an exhaust / driveshaft out kind of deal :(
 
 
MRTurbo
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RE: BiGH's MR2. 2012/03/09 10:34:15 (permalink)
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If its the original alternator then its probably shagged.
mine went somewhere about 17x,000 kms and it was the 'stator' from memory that was cooked. A few days before it dies, my tacho kept on playing up randomly then as it got worse the check engine light started flashing.
Yeah my mechanic said it was a *&^* of a job as he needed to take out the axle/driveshaft.

1990 SW20 GT 3S-GTE Targa
2001 Honda CBR600F4i

bigh
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RE: BiGH's MR2. 2012/03/09 10:55:28 (permalink)
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I'd suggest it's the alt yes. my engine bay is pretty freeking grose.  No gen2 no catch can and an atmos venting bov = spewing crap everywhere, and lots of leaks.
I might give it the big old degrease since the alt is prob farked anyways.
 
 
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RE: BiGH's MR2. 2012/03/09 11:16:02 (permalink)
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yeah 20+ years of oil spillage on it from people 'missing' the oil filler neck, will usually do it :P

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2001 Honda CBR600F4i

bigh
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RE: BiGH's MR2. 2012/03/09 11:59:22 (permalink)
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lol! yes completely agree! 
 
ok I've had a look at the repair manual - will be attempting the on car troubleshooting in pages 602-618 tomorrow. most likely it's going to be the alt. and a trip to the mechanic's :\ FUN!
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RE: BiGH's MR2. 2012/03/12 20:14:30 (permalink)
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edit: 
after a lot of playing round with the car, cleaning grounds, testing voltages... it's almost 100% the alternator.  The Alt is full of oil, and grossness. If i was to wager a bet i'd say the brushes are shagged.  It's booked in this week, and i bought a new alternator off the forums which will hopefully be there this week (it's mum's birthday, and it'd be great to be able to drive her, instead of vice versa) I also found that my exhaust temp sensor wasn't actually installed in the dump pipe - so i screwed that in too while i was at it.  
 
Even tho the cold start switch's connector is stuffed, it looks like the cold start is working fine.  
 
I also actually watched the alt when it started to drop voyage down.  it didn't just go bang down to 12 i.e. in a second, it took about 10 seconds to drop down in voltage.  I definitely need to clean out the engine bay with degreaser and a high pressure hose (ESP under the car). fun times!
 
edit: also gapped the plugs and put in the copper ones, car runs much better, and doesn't retard timing at high boost :)
post edited by bigh - 2012/03/12 20:26:59
bigh
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RE: BiGH's MR2. 2012/03/19 14:05:53 (permalink)
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ok alt is all better now, picking it up tonight.  battery will only charge to 12.8v  - apparently that's bad??? but the guy who rebuilt the alt said it was "definitely no good".
 
Looking forward to picking it up and being able to try out the new sub properly :) while driving the way I should be :P instead of gingerly :p
 
just feels good to have one less thing to do! :)
 
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