robk
As I mentioned a while ago, I implemented some custom functionality for my check-engine light (CEL), because the CEL is connected to an aux output on my Adaptronic e1280s ECU, and the configurability of the ECU is virtually limitless. I recently improved and expanded on that functionality, by adding custom functionality for my tachometer which is controlled by the ECU. The CEL is still involved, but now I can use the tacho to see the values of many different ECU parameters, not just RPM. Here's a video:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCIn27qR6XU
 
Enjoy!

 
Translated into non techie...
 
"Like I was saying, I stuck some custom stuff on my CEL, cos it's plugged into an extra output in my whizz bang ECU, and my ECU is the shizz and can do heaps of stuff. I made the ECU better, and the tacho gives more data through it as well now. The CEL is still involved, but now the tacho shows me heaps more stuff, not just RPM. Check this...
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCIn27qR6XU
 
Drool! 
 
 

I have no idea what all that meant...... except the temperature, lol. Looks impressive tho.... very clever.

Dudeman
Very impressive. You have a knack for this techie stuff, should take it up professionally.

Haha I know right! :-P

Having a Mechatronics Engineering degree, and working as a Software Engineer, makes this sort of thing seem like a walk in the park to me lol.

After months of talking about updating my oil catch can setup, I finally got around to doing it (with the help of a friend and an experienced welder). In theory, the catch can should never over-fill at the track ever again, and I'll only have to drain it occasionally with street driving.
 
I kept the same little 'D1 Spec' oil catch can, but the following changes were made:
- We welded a big extra section onto the side of the existing catch can, increasing it's capacity from ~400mL to ~1L.
- We improved the baffling, with a combination of plates and steel wool.
- We added a -8 drain hose from the catch can down to a new fitting welded to the sump.
- The drain hose comes from a 90 degree fitting on the side of the catch can, about a third of the way up from the bottom of the can, so almost nothing will be drained to the sump unless an excessive amount of oil enters the catch can while I'm at the track.
- On the street, the fluid level in the catch can will remain well below the drain to the sump.
- I still have another smaller drain hose from the base of the catch can, which goes down to a manual shut-off valve under the car. This allows me to easily drain anything that collects in the catch can below the level of the drain to the sump.
 
Next time I go to the track, hopefully the oil catch can mods will prove to be successful!

Yeah, I've heard mixed opinions about that from various people. I'll see how it goes without a check valve first.

That's a new signature there on your post I see Robbie boy.

robk
I got a phone call from Fast Fours magazine today. They will be doing a photoshoot of my car in a few weeks!

Excellent, I'll have to buy it when it comes out.

Rob,
It may be a good idea to drain the catch can instead of returning to the sump. The oil can end up being pretty 'funky' at times!
Brakes look great. Some owners change the master cylinder too. Did you do this?
That's great news about Fast Fours. Congratulations on that win. If I can make it, I will see you on Monday.