ROFL good ol' Rob

God you're hopeless!
 
 
Atleast you came to your senses this time though.

robk
When I got back to the garage and parked the car, I spent a good 10 minutes staring at it from every angle and smiling.
I'm very satisfied right now. 

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Jay reminded me about something inevitable that I've been ignoring, and that is the fact that my stock ignition system is unlikely to handle much more than what I'm throwing at it now.
I'm thinking of doing a 1ZZ COP conversion, and I've been in contact with RacerX once again because they have a kit for this. It will be a walk in the park for my ECU, I just have to decide whether to retain the standard reluctor CAS pickups in the dizzy and buy a dizzy blanking cap, or remove the dizzy completely and retrofit a sensor on the crank and possibly on the cam too (that's all part of the RacerX kit I believe). I could just fit a multitooth wheel on the crank with a missing tooth and run wasted-spark, but if I want to retain my sequential injection and also run direct-fire ignition then I'll still need a cam sensor with a single-tooth reset wheel.
It never ends!

My (second) RacerX shipment is on its way, including a 1ZZ COP conversion kit, a crank trigger wheel with hall sensor, and a cam trigger wheel with hall sensor. I ended up needing a custom crank trigger wheel, because I forgot that I have a Ross harmonic balancer rather than the stock one! I got a loyalty discount for the overall order though :-)
 
On an unrelated note, now that I'm very happy with my lower ride-height, I really should get another wheel alignment. I've learnt a lot more about alignments recently. At this stage I'm thinking of getting 0mm front toe (or maybe 1-2mm toe-out) and 2-4mm total toe-in at the rear. I'm open to other alignment suggestions, for a car driven mainly on the street, and not daily.
The last time I had a wheel alignment about a year ago, I got everything adjusted perfectly (camber, caster and toe) at Heasman steering. At the time, they set the rear camber to exactly -1.5 degrees on both sides, as I wanted. In recent months I had been really puzzled, thinking that my eyes were deceiving me, because I started thinking that my rear left wheel had noticeably more negative camber than the right wheel. It was annoying because it was making it difficult to adjust my fender clearance at the rear when lowering the car. Tonight I realised that I could download a simple 'level' app for my Android phone, to finally measure the camber myself. Well, it turns out that my rear left wheel has indeed changed from -1.5 degrees...to -2.7 degrees! (the right wheel is still -1.5 as expected). I guess I must have hit a decent sized bump or pothole on the left side, and forgot about it :-/ It will be interesting to see if one of the two big strut bolts has shifted in the elongated hole in the KW coilover. It probably has. Come to think of it, I think Heasman only tightened those bolts with an impact wrench, without a final hand-tighten once the camber was finalised.
 
BTW Jay, as you suggested many times I finally removed that other tab that was scrubbing my rear left tyre inside the fender.

Thanks for the advice Steve. I plan on correcting the rear left camber so they are both -1.5 again.

IMR22C
KW's shifting in their holes is something I haven't heard of before

hahaha, I know it happened to you too!

It will be easier if I show a photo but is basically a '1/4 moon' shaped shin which is 2mm thick. Will sort something out in a few days. I recall one of the guys welding up the elongated hole then drilling a one hole for the bolt. I think this is a better idea than slotted holes.
I fitted grub screws either side of the bolt to stop it moving. Once it is bolted together it will not and has not moved since, then used my camber adjustment tops to adjust camber.