Mine works very good just dont know how good it will be with the bigger SC but the new SC will generate less heat as it will be spinning slower.
 
I have vital alarm set points that will turn on the OEM check light and SLM on the steering wheel if exceeded.
One of them is > 50 degrees IAT. With a lot of spirited driving and especially in the hot weather we had,  it didnt go off, which i am pleased
Other sensors joined in the alarm display are Engine and oil temp, Rotrex oil temp and knocking

I really like that front lip
just needs clear toblerones :D

Oh man! good tyres!
 
265 on the rear would look very fat too! what profile did you get?

I've just bought a pair of 215/35 R18 Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric tyres for the front, to replace the RE002 tyres which are too big for the front in 225/40 R18.
Yesterday I made a for sale thread for the 2 spare RE002 tyres which are virtually brand new, and could be used on the rear of an SW20 with suitable rims.

MIDN1T3
Hey Rob, been reading through your thread for a while now...love your build and very impressed with the level of quality and detail, is very similar to what I would like to do to my car - just waiting for my funds to build up.

Thanks mate! It was a loooong and sometimes stressful process, but I don't regret it at all because I really love this car!

MIDN1T3
How does the GT3076R feel after driving for a while now?  Any pros or cons about it?  
I would like either to get this turbo or the Gt35r to reach a goal of 300kw (or close to) but don't really want to sacrifice bottom end power, and have any really major lag.  Maybe too much wishful thinking?

 
NOTE TO FUTURE READERS OF THIS THREAD: My turbo has since been changed to a GTX3076R.
 
When I was choosing my turbo, I was afraid of the lag and had the same mindset that you have right now. When I first started driving my car after it was fully tuned, the lag was every bit as noticeable as I thought it would be...however, after a few months I realised that I simply needed to adjust my driving style. If you're in the wrong gear so the revs are too low, the response is totally crap, worse than an NA haha, so the key is to always be in a suitable gear, this solves everything. If you're just cruising along with no desire to accelerate, you can use the same gears that you always have, but if you are anticipating that you will want to accelerate hard at any moment, you need to be one or two gears lower than you're used to. If you're cruising along normally and you suddenly need to accelerate, eg. to overtake someone, it's as simple as downshifting one or two gears to increase the revs to at least 4000rpm, then the accelerator pedal becomes almost like a wheel spin on/off switch! It's AWESOME! haha. The feeling when the boost comes on is just amazing.
So, you can avoid the lag issue by doing what I said above, but of course that doesn't help when you're accelerating from a standstill. In this case, you will inevitably experience all the lag. It's really not that bad though, in 1st gear it takes hardly any time to rev high enough for full boost. Plus, once you reach the redline, none of the subsequent upshifts will drop the revs below the point of max boost, so the lag only occurs once before the redline is reached.
I hope that helps! I always give a detailed explanation of this, because it helps people to properly visualise it.
 

MIDN1T3
Also I've been looking at the turbo kits the ATSracing and KOracing provide, they seem to be of fairly good quality, and was wondering where you got yours from?  

Actually I didn't use an off-the-shelf turbo kit, in fact hardly anything I used was in kit form. This did lead to lots of extra expenses here and there, due to custom work, but I like that my engine bay has some unique traits. Basically I just bought the turbo itself, and MRC (my mechanic/workshop) fabricated or purchased whatever else they needed to complete the setup.
I must emphasize, there are quite a few SW20s which have achieved similar power to mine at a lower overall cost, but I was willing to spend more to have something a little bit different to everyone else. I also prefer to get it right the first time, even if it means more money and more time just to get it all finished.
 

MIDN1T3
Finally, you may not be able to answer this one as you have a water to air intercooler, but would I be able to get away decent sidemount and make this power?  Just not to keen on cutting holes in my trunk. I'm in the process of upgrading my intercooler, and thought I'd may as well get one that could, in the long run, support about 280 - 300kw.  This car probably wont see any track work, and be driven maybe twice a week.

Dylan/dylmrt has about 250rwkw I think, and he had a sidemount intercooler when that tune was done. It may have heat-soaked after every dyno run though lol.

No worries, feel free to ask questions any time!
 
I just got back from 'test driving' my car after a full alignment by Heasman Steering, and my overall alignment and ride height is now perfect for me, and I have awesome tyres all round with no more scrubbing issues
PhilB Enterprises rolled my front guards on the weekend too. I'm so happy to have my suspension and tyres fully sorted once and for all!

purple5ive

SIDEMOUNT will not get you to 250kw i can guarentee that. you will probably get 220is max before heatsoak/inlet temps will rob you off power. if your after that much power id go water to air, most people have the interccoler itself in the engine bay which gives you really good throttle response as well. the heat exchanger position is personal choice.

cheers

 
What do you base your comments on??