quote:

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Originally posted by Jaemus

Rob, mate that looks absolutely freaking fantastic! I'm especially impressed with the use of black paint and hoses etc instead of the usual blue / red / whatever that always looks so tacked on.

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+1

The engine bay is looking purpose built, not an ounce of rice to be seen. Of course with that exhaust manifold it wouldn't matter what else is in there, it'd still look great!!

Keep the pics coming, and keep up the top notch work.

Very cool build! I like your attention to detail! this car will be a weapon when its all done.
[:x)]

You WILL want a Quaife, trust me (and Senol)! an open wheeler p1sses me off now and my engine is fairly standard...the novelty of smoking up one wheel all the time and stodgy handling under power does wear off!! lol [:p]

Remember: A good LSD should be on top of your list as you add more power to the car. You want to put that power down on the pavement, don't you?

Finally some more progress!
Lots of small things have happened in the last week or so, and there is a possibility that I'll be able to start setting up the Adaptronic e1280s ECU and start the car before the end of the week fingers crossed!

The following has been completed since my last update:
- New spark plug leads fitted
- Filler neck fitted for W2A system
- Oil catch can fitted
- BOV fitted
- Pod filter fitted
- New custom harmonic balancer fitted
- 3 bar MAP sensor fitted
- Fuel pressure regulator fitted and plumbed in
- Boost control solenoid fitted and plumbed in
- A/C compressor re-fitted
- X-brace re-painted in black (not fitted yet)
- Most hose clamps fitted (happy Surok?)

All that's left is for me to wire up the pump/fans/sensors for the W2A system (not vital to start the car of course), and there may be a few very small things for my mechanic to finish too.





'D1 Spec' oil catch can:


MSD 3 bar MAP sensor in place of stock MAP sensor, and filler neck for W2A IC system (notice the water temperature sensor which was custom fitted):


External wastegate plumbing:


MAC boost control solenoid valve:


Turbosmart fuel pressure regulator:


Turbosmart plumb-back BOV (the BOV itself isn't really visible, but you can see how it plumbs back very neatly):


Big intake pipe/hose from pod filter:


Looking up into left side vent, showing the pod filter location:


This one is just to show what I mean when I say that I get to watch the progress very closely every day while I'm at work (that's my office window on the second level of the building, with my car on the hoist :

Thanks!
My mech keeps laughing at me for taking so many photos, but then he'll always say "nah I'm just kidding, I would too". lol
I've caught him taking photos of it too haha, I don't blame him, he has done an amazing job with the car and I'm sure he is proud of it.

The car will definitely be started next week if not tomorrow, but I've concluded that there is no way I'm going to get to drive the car before I lose my license on tuesday. At least I can just take my time with it now. I was worried that I wouldn't get to run it in and therefore I wouldn't be able to do any proper tuning for the whole 6 months, but my mech informed me that I can run it in by spending quite a few hours on his dyno after hours. Also, he offered for me to spend as much time as I want on his dyno (next door to where I work) while he is away for a whole week at the SEMA show in the US in a few weeks! I'm still very much a beginner with using dynos (his is Dyno Dynamics), but I've played around with my car on his dyno before a little bit, and I won't be doing any full power runs until he gets back from the US.

I can't wait to finally do some power runs after that and see what it can do! Then it will be off to WSID and track days I hope!

Progress is looking awesome Rob. Will be delighted to see this on the road.

i think it will need a "monthly meet road tuning and datalogging drive" in december.

There's a good reason for the running in 'paradox.' It's important to get pressure behind the rings to aid them bedding in to the bores quickly, but also to not load up the bearings excessively and risk galling on any high spots. High ring pressure is obtained with high throttle, low RPM conditions, and if this is not done soon after its first warm up the bores will glaze due to the heat of excessive blow-by gasses. Engine speed is a significant factor in bearing loads, accelerating and decelerating the pistons takes progressively higher forces at higher speeds, so it's also important to keep RPMs down during run-in. Varying speeds and not sitting at one speed for extended periods (including idle) ensures that oil splash is as random as possible and properly distributed to all splash fed parts.

Bottom line, short periods of high load, keep RPM under half redline, and vary speeds constantly.