robk
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RE: robk's MR2 Turbo
2010/01/07 20:18:41
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I thought this could be useful to anyone who searches the forum for info on bored-out gen 2 fuel rails, so here are a few pics of mine (done by Road and Track in Ipswich, I think they increase the bore of the rail from about 4mm to 7mm diameter): This one shows where the fuel rail bore feeds into the side-feed injectors..  This one shows where they weld it up afterwards (there is normally a little welch plug there).. 
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robk
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RE: robk's MR2 Turbo
2010/05/07 22:12:16
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Woohoooo my Full-Race exhaust manifold and dump pipe just arrived! They look even better than the photos on their website! EDIT: these turned out to be the wrong parts! Full Race sent a Gen 3 manifold instead of Gen 2, and also I should have ordered a 4-bolt dump pipe instead of V-band (that one was my fault). Both of these parts are being sent back, and Full Race are sending the correct parts ASAP. The correct parts will look very similar anyway. Full Race Gen 3 (incorrect, but still beautiful) exhaust manifold:      
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kameleon
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RE: robk's MR2 Turbo
2010/05/07 22:39:22
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dylmrt
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RE: robk's MR2 Turbo
2010/05/07 22:47:46
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Why do i get these parts for you and not myself?? :P
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robk
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RE: robk's MR2 Turbo
2010/05/07 22:52:32
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quote:
Originally posted by dylmrt
Why do i get these parts for you and not myself?? :P
Good question. You take all our monies, why not spend them on your own car [:x)] jk. Thanks again for organising many of the parts for my rebuild Dylan! I've got all the major stuff now, and my mech will continue working on my car again tomorrow!
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Lumix
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RE: robk's MR2 Turbo
2010/06/07 00:11:26
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Brb, picking my jaw up off the floor [:u]
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robk
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RE: robk's MR2 Turbo
2010/06/07 00:15:49
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quote:
Originally posted by Lumix
Brb, picking my jaw up off the floor [:u]
Mine's still stuck there. Thanks mate!
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5SGTE
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RE: robk's MR2 Turbo
2010/06/07 17:34:35
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stuka
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RE: robk's MR2 Turbo
2010/06/07 18:37:01
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very sexy piece of engineering!
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DVSTurbo2
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RE: robk's MR2 Turbo
2010/06/07 22:26:43
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daymn that's nice!
Looks like a similar build to KO Racing... I've been drooling over that for a while.
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robk
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RE: robk's MR2 Turbo
2010/07/07 01:28:24
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Thanks all  If I'm feeling up to it tomorrow night, I might do an all-nighter to install my head unit and amp (I can't do the sub yet because I don't have the tools to make an enclosure for it, but Vinny has offered assistance and tools to do that soon). I might also run some wires for the potential addition of various temperature and pressure sensors at different parts of the intake and intercooler system. One other thing. The ONLY problem that I have ever had with this car, and it's not a big deal, is that the main radiator thermofan (at the front of the car) has always run constantly whenever the key is on, so I should do something about that too. AFAIK, that fan is activated by a thermoswitch in the radiator itself (?), so it could be a problem with that sensor/switch, or with the relay (wherever that is). I'm considering using my ECU to control that fan instead, based on the ECU's own coolant temperature sensor reading. However, if it would be easier to just replace the thermoswitch and/or relay, then I'll do that. BTW, back to the topic of my head unit and amp, who has installed their amp behind one of the seats? DVSTurbo2...you have right? I'm curious as to where people have run all the cables from the head unit, and for the power supply. I'm planning to run everything in the centre tunnel. Originally this was going to include the positive cable to the battery at the front, but I have since considered getting the positive feed for the amp from somewhere in the engine bay, to save me running the fattest of all the cables to the front of the car. I would probably just ground the amp to the chassis right near the amp. Thoughts?
post edited by robk - 2014/06/18 14:59:59
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artymr2
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RE: robk's MR2 Turbo
2010/07/07 11:07:04
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Regarding stereo wiring, I took the power feed from the fuse box in the engine bay (you can bolt it to one of the 2 nuts on the main large power cable in there). Then ran it into the rear boot via one of the gromets, then between the outside panel (guard) above the wheel arch and the engine bay metal work and into the cabin. It comes out on the side near the seatbelt mechanism/rear speakers sort of area.
Its a bit of PITA to get the cable through, but i inserted a coat hanger wire from the interior until it poked out into the boot, and pulled the wires thruogh. Pull and extra bit of wire/string at the same incase you need to run more wires later to make it easy.
I had an amp in the cavity under the lid behind the seat. You can earth the amp directly to chassis nearby as you said, just make sure its got a decent connection (ie sand a bit of paint off under the eyelet you are bolting. There are heaps of bolts you could use in that area for a connection point, and use just as beefy a cable as the power supply. And fit the fuse as close as possible to the power connection point.
To run the wiring between there and the deck, I ran it just inside the sills. If you pull the plastic sill converings off and unhook the carpet, you will see looms runnign there, i just added to them. Its easy to get to.
Its good practice to seperate your power leads from your line level signal (RCA) leads/speaker wires to minimise interference, but I have combined them previously in other cars and didnt have any issues with interference. I powered the deck from the fuse box near the accelarator pedal.
BTW, the exhaust manifold looks awesome, talk about mechanical p*rn!!
Cheers
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artymr2
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RE: robk's MR2 Turbo
2010/07/07 11:08:57
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If one of the temp sensors in the front radiator is unplugged (right hand side i think), it causes both the front fans to run full blast at all times when ignition is on.
Cheers
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robk
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RE: robk's MR2 Turbo
2010/07/07 11:43:40
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Thanks heaps for the advice artymr2!
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cogs
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RE: robk's MR2 Turbo
2010/07/07 12:27:10
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Also if your car has A/C there's a high pressure switch in the froot, when this switch opens (indicating A/C pressure above 200(?) PSI) the fans run at full speed. Naturally, if the switch is disconnected or removed (while removing A/C) same thing will happen. The fans themselves are controlled by the A/C amplifier via the froot mounted relays. They have two speeds effected by series or parallel connection of the motors, and should normally only run on low speed (series connection) when the radiator water reaches a preset temp. High speed is only for abnormal conditions, ie. very high radiator temp or A/C over pressure.
Rob, you may be interested in a controller I built for my W2A fans and pump, while not ECU controlled its functionality may be emulated by an ECU routine. PM me if you'd like more info, I'm more than happy to bounce around ideas.
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