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Answeredrobk's MR2 Turbo

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robk
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Re: robk's MR2 Turbo 2017/06/27 11:20:02 (permalink)
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Back in 2010 I replaced the 4 bulbs for back lighting in the dash cluster, with these:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-5-led-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/199/#tab/Overview
Out of those 4 LEDs, 2 of them have been fine for 7 years, but 1 of them failed after only a few years, and 1 of them failed last week.
I didn't have another spare this time, so I bought a new set of 4 to ensure that they all match in brightness. 
I decided to try these instead, so I could get them locally:
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/INTERIOR-LIGHT-LED-WHITE-T10-10-SCA/382403
They're quite expensive, but the brightness is very good (brighter than the ones I had from SuperBrightLeds before), and each one has 10 individual LEDs on it to ensure a wide spread of light in every direction. I even had to adjust the potentiometer on the custom dimmer circuit for my Omori boost gauge, to bring its brightness back up to a similar level to the rest of the dash gauges with the new LEDs. 
The only problem is that these LEDs are quite tall, so I was only able to install 2 of them (the ones behind the tachometer) without modifications. For the other 2 (behind the speedometer) I had to do some simple cutting of the wedge base plastic part, so they would sit further down in the holder, and not stick too far into the back of the dash and interfere with the back of the speedometer. 
Sorry I didn't get any photos. 
post edited by robk - 2017/06/27 11:29:56

There is an extensive build thread for my car here: http://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=18316
robk
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Re: robk's MR2 Turbo 2017/07/06 15:25:47 (permalink)
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After an Old Pac run on Tuesday night, I started hearing a horrible noise which varies with engine speed. I started fearing the worst, but the car felt completely normal on the way home, apart from the noise.
When I got home I removed the alternator belt and AC belt and I discovered a relatively minor, but nonetheless very frustrating failure of this part (I have an older revision of it on my engine):
https://rossperformanceparts.com/product/toyota-3sgte-3sge-metal-jacket-harmonic-damper/
The outer metal pulley section for the AC belt only, had completely separated from the inner part of the unit. 
The damper/pulley had lasted ~7 years and copped a lot of abuse, but it's still annoying when the part cost me ~$600. 
Now I have to buy another one, and go through the hassle of removing and replacing it. At least the newer revisions of that part have a different design which should prevent the sort of failure I had, according to the owner of Ross Performance whom I talked to on the phone. 
 
Before I begin the task of removing the crank pulley, can anyone confirm whether or not I'll be able to remove it without lowering the engine at all (to clear the chassis rail)? Note that the aftermarket pulley has the same outer dimensions as the OEM one. 
If the answer is no, then how many engine/torque mounts need to be disconnected to allow the engine to drop sufficiently?
Remember that I only need to remove the crank pulley, I don't need access to the timing belt or anything like that. 

There is an extensive build thread for my car here: http://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=18316
IMR22C
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Re: robk's MR2 Turbo 2017/07/06 15:33:29 (permalink)
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From memory, you can't remove the pulley without dropping an engine mount.

You might be alright just removing the D/S mount. That's what I normally do, but my other engine mounts are in need of some Sikaflex so I likely get more movement out of them.

robk
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Re: robk's MR2 Turbo 2017/07/06 15:41:28 (permalink)
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IMR22C
From memory, you can't remove the pulley without dropping an engine mount.
You might be alright just removing the D/S mount. That's what I normally do, but my other engine mounts are in need of some Sikaflex so I likely get more movement out of them.

Thanks for the info Bill!
My kirkosaurus torque mount inserts may limit the movement compared to yours, but I'll try the right side engine mount first and see what happens. 

There is an extensive build thread for my car here: http://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=18316
stuka
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Re: robk's MR2 Turbo 2017/07/09 18:49:18 (permalink)
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Never ends Rob. You must have crapped yourself when you first heard the noise!
robk
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Re: robk's MR2 Turbo 2017/07/09 19:53:46 (permalink)
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stuka
Never ends Rob. You must have crapped yourself when you first heard the noise!

Sure did!

On another note, the recent Photobucket changes have caused all the photos in my build thread to disappear! It's going to take a lot of work to upload them all again in some other way.

There is an extensive build thread for my car here: http://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=18316

stuka
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Re: robk's MR2 Turbo 2017/07/09 19:59:29 (permalink)
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there will be a lot of people upset about that, what a disaster
seasalt
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Re: robk's MR2 Turbo 2017/07/11 18:41:06 (permalink)
+1 (1)
Holding photoholders and websites to ransom. Mongrels.
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Re: robk's MR2 Turbo 2017/07/13 07:54:12 (permalink)
+1 (1)
You will need to drop the engine but make sure you break the seal of the locking bolt before any other work. The boys at HQ may be able to help with hoist or engine crane if required.
Yes, photos hope was a dud that had a relapse..
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Re: robk's MR2 Turbo 2017/07/13 08:20:38 (permalink)
+1 (1)

Mr Glengineering.
Please visit my other forums - 
www.celica.org.au
www.classic-ford.org
 
 
My build thread - https://www.mr2australia..m/mr2play/FindPost/47893
92 Hard Top
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Re: robk's MR2 Turbo 2017/07/13 10:56:28 (permalink)
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Yes you can as I have done it before. Undo the two east and west engine mounts, Exhaust and intake, then pull out drive shafts. Then place a jack under the gearbox side jack up until your harmonic balancer clear the chassis. You will be tilting the motor on center engine mounts. Just make sore you have something to catch the oil that drains of the drive shaft seal. then put the oil back in the gearbox.
IMR22C
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Re: robk's MR2 Turbo 2017/07/13 17:31:22 (permalink)
+1 (1)
You surely won't need to do that much. The driveshafts have movement in them so they shouldn't need to come out, exhaust also has a fair amount of flex. I would remove the gearbox mount only if required and see where that gets you.
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Re: robk's MR2 Turbo 2017/07/13 23:32:53 (permalink)
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If it cheers you up at all Rob, toyota recommend changing your balancer every 10 years. The revised design from ross works a lot better. We went through the teething issues with it as well.

Ross performance change hands a few years back, if it had **** itself a bit earlier, you might have gotten a discount.

As mentioned, mounts need to be dropped. Cars woth stiff mounts i have found it easiest to removed timing belt side mount, amd depending on exhaust, either remove bolt from rear mount, or loosen rear subframe.

'88 MR2 4AGTE W/ EFR6258

224.6KW @ 20PSI

more to come......
robk
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Re: robk's MR2 Turbo 2017/07/14 07:04:41 (permalink)
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Thanks Nathan!

There is an extensive build thread for my car here: http://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=18316
92 Hard Top
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Re: robk's MR2 Turbo 2017/07/14 11:21:23 (permalink)
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Yes you may leave drive in if there is enough movement to clear the chassis. If not drive shafts out. On my car it was easy just to undo two bolts to split the exhaust. 
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