Go back to home



We have detected that you are using ad blocking software.
The MR2 Australia forum is made possible by ad revenue.
Please disable your ad blocker to ensure that this site lives on.

SW20 Steering column shaft dust seal 45292-17010

Author
Blade
MR2 Enthusiast
  • Total Posts : 45
  • Scores: 4
  • Reward points: 1426
  • Joined: 2015/11/19 17:36:00
  • Status: offline
2020/03/02 20:57:24 (permalink)
5 (1)

SW20 Steering column shaft dust seal 45292-17010

Hi All,

I have attempted this and found an invaluable guide on our American friends website.

NOT sure if this is allowed but I thought to slightly amend it and repost here. Its based on my experience too so may differ for you.

Have the foam handy
Part # 45292-17010

I bought a new ring too and the bolts but re used the old bolts

1) Open the frunk, remove the plastic cover for the steering wheel shaft (2 plastic nuts). Remove the spare tire and plastic surround to get to this piece.

2) In the frunk, you'll see 2 bolts, one on either side of a U-Joint connecting the steering splined shaft. You'll only need to remove the one closest to the firewall (12mm wrench or socket). DON'T try to remove it yet, just loosen it a bit, otherwise it can strip the threads as it goes past a corresponding indentation on the shaft. Mark the position of the shaft on the lower section with some paint (I used a paint pen and made 2 marks).

3) Inside the car, under the steering wheel near where the shaft comes out from the frunk, you'll see another U-Joint and a single bolt securing the splined shaft to the steering wheel shaft. Mark the position of both sections with something you can reference for later to line it up, then loosen the bolt so you can wiggle the shaft forward and backward a few millimeters. Once it wiggles a bit along the axis of the splines, you should be able to remove the bolt. The splines are a very precise fit, so you might have to spread the opening a little to initially break things free. Depending on if the bolts have been played with will depend on if they come loose quick.

4) Now remove the bolt in the frunk, If the bolt doesn't come out easily (binds), wiggle the shaft forward and backward, and try again, otherwise you'll strip the bolt threads. Both bolts are very close to the indentations on the shaft (interference fit) and won't come out cleanly without a bit of shaft movement.

- I did use a screwdriver to ever so slightly spread open both frunk and in-cabin connection points since the splined sections were in there quite tight. It's cast iron so go easy here. Just a little pressure with the screwdriver worked wonders to free things up.

5) Inside the car, on the firewall where the shaft enters, remove two small bolts (10mm wrench or socket) holding the securing ring to the old seal. You'll have to move the carpet back a bit to see the ring and get to both of these bolts.

6) You'll need to push the frunk splined connection down a bit (towards the ground) to make room to disconnect and remove the splined shaft from inside the car. It's not really heavy, but since it's jointed, it can be awkward to handle. Be patient and you'll get it. You can tap it lightly with a hammer to get it to move initially, then just use your hands to uncouple and remove it. (I didn't use a hammer)

7) Reinstall in reverse order. First, push the shaft from the frunk through the firewall into the cabin. Pull the carpet back and then put the seal over the splined shaft. The seal should come from the factory with some lubricant on the small opening where the shaft enters it. Make sure the frunk goes on first.

8) Next, put the ring holding the new seal on it (before connecting the splined shaft section to the steering wheel shaft connector inside the cabin). Just place the ring over the seal, but don't put on its two small securing bolts yet. Push the carpet back over this assembly before connecting shafts to receiving connectors (order counts!).

9) Line up the shaft to match the marks you made on each end, then push the splined section into the matching connecting spline section openings starting with the one inside the car. Push and/or pull the splined section as necessary, it can move quite a bit. Wiggle the shaft fore/aft if needed to get both splined shaft securing bolts started and initially tightened by hand.

10) TIGHTEN BOTH SPLINE SHAFT BOLTS ! (per the BGB, 26 ft-lb, 36 N-m). Then, after tightening the spline bolts, rotate the seal ring so the side indentations fit it's two bolt hole openings (it goes on at a slight angle), and tighten the two ring bolts (they only need to be hand tight).


Remember that the bolts can and should be restarted by hand - DON'T FORCE IT or you'll need a new bolt (or two, or 3, or 4). Move the shaft back and forth a bit should do it. FYI, the part number for these bolts is 90080-11555.

In total, It only takes about a half hour (if you don't need a new bolt which I thankfully didn't.

Took me longer as I went to see some bloke about a dog half way through.
#1


3 Replies Related Threads

    Blade
    MR2 Enthusiast
    • Total Posts : 45
    • Scores: 4
    • Reward points: 1426
    • Joined: 2015/11/19 17:36:00
    • Status: offline
    Re: SW20 Steering column shaft dust seal 45292-17010 2020/03/02 20:59:17 (permalink)
    0
    You're bolt should look like this and don't strip it or damage it.
    #2
    Blade
    MR2 Enthusiast
    • Total Posts : 45
    • Scores: 4
    • Reward points: 1426
    • Joined: 2015/11/19 17:36:00
    • Status: offline
    Re: SW20 Steering column shaft dust seal 45292-17010 2020/03/03 09:47:18 (permalink)
    +1 (1)
    So this is a picture of the foam, ring and bolts (Don't use theses bolts, the old ones are just fine)
    #3

    Falcon
    Supporter
    • Total Posts : 621
    • Scores: 166
    • Reward points: 5033
    • Joined: 2011/04/07 19:51:15
    • Location: Brisbane Australia
    • Status: offline
    Re: SW20 Steering column shaft dust seal 45292-17010 2020/03/05 09:19:36 (permalink)
    +1 (1)
    Many thanks for your write up. Very well done.
    It's a right royal pain in the posterior to dismantle and reassemble that steering column joint.
    If the genuine fall to bits foam rubber grommet is abandoned there is a much easier alternative.
    Firstly the steering column does not need to be disturbed at all. Big plus.
    Secondly you already own the parts.
    Select from your favorite plastic oil container a 100mm diameter piece.
    Cut a hole in it's centre a tinsy tiny bit larger than the shaft's diameter.
    Slit from OD to ID. Very important not to slit from ID to OD.
    From inside cabin, open slit and install plastic over shaft.
    Mark for bolt holes. Remove, punch bolt holes and install with retaining ring.
    Now you will discover whether the job was done accurately and if not ?
    Well, you have either a really good plastic template to make a better job or a now worthless bit of oil container.
    I usually run short of oil containers. This fix has now been done on three cars. It does work.
     
    #4
    Jump to:

    © 2022 APG vNext Trial Version 5.5