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Hot!Alternatives to bleeding the SW20 cooling system

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Matts_SW20
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2019/03/24 22:24:01 (permalink)
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Alternatives to bleeding the SW20 cooling system

Hi All, 
 
So I recently replaced my coolant sensors and in the process of doing so have introduced air into my system. Now no matter what I do I cannot bleed the system. My thermostat is new and I have an aftermarket radiator with a drain bung not a tap:

 
I have tried taking the bung out and putting a 19mm hose over the entire barb that's welded onto it to raise the level and then quickly removing the hose and screwing the plug back in while coolant is gushing out and simultaneously topping up a funnel I have at the rear fill point and still the car is overheating. I have tried squeezing all the rubber hoses and there was some air in the ones to the front rad but seems to be getting better? The end rad tanks aren't really getting hot enough to engage the front fans because of a likely air bubble and all the guides online where I leave it with the hoses all connected to heater and rad bleed valves have not worked. 
 
I've tried turning the engine on with all the bleed valves open, it'll just lower the heater coolant level in its hose but won't run dry and every now and then a small bubble emerges at the back. I've been at this for 3 days now and was wondering if anyone on here has a revolutionary idea about bleeding the car that I may not have tried. I've read the PDF guide here and sadly it's not helping. 

One person has suggested draining the entire system, putting negative pressure and then having it suck all 13L back in but that is an unattractive option right now. The last time I bled the coolant successfully with my set up I just drove around the block, pulled in, waited for it to cool, topped it up and then repeated but now I'm finding that even after I do that I can't top it up with anymore coolant.  

MR2 Club of Australia (NSW Branch) Inc.
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#1


24 Replies Related Threads

    Eric
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    Re: Alternatives to bleeding the SW20 cooling system 2019/03/25 05:14:52 (permalink)
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    Hey Matt - have you got the rear of the car in the air? When i bleed mine, I put the rear of the car as high as possible and hang the hose from the radiator and heater core on the top of the bonnet. Works a charm.

    Maybe chuck a mittyvac on the system overnight to check for any leaks

    Hope this helps

    1990 SW20 Hardtop - Supercharged 2GR-FZE
    #2
    92 Hard Top
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    Re: Alternatives to bleeding the SW20 cooling system 2019/03/25 11:18:54 (permalink)
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    You need to bleed the outlet that connect to your heater it's above your spare tyre area. Air gets trap in there. Attach a hose and hook it to the bonnet. And continue doing what your doing with your bleed, Jacking helps. Use a fill free funnel it's the best investment, top it 1/4 way close bleed points, then run motor until thermostat releases a few times keep an eye it, make sure it's got enough coolant in the funnel, as it heats up the coolant might rise. Then let it cool down. plug the funnel, then seal your system. This will work.
     
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQk9HpuIrmA
    #3

    Lumix
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    Re: Alternatives to bleeding the SW20 cooling system 2019/03/25 13:57:42 (permalink)
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    I can't recommend the Spill free funnel enough. I have the Lisle funnel - can't remember product code at the moment but can check when I'm home. Ordered from Amazon. Definitely worth adding to your tool collection.
     
    Edit:
     
    Lisle Spill-Free Funnel 24680
    post edited by Lumix - 2019/03/25 20:51:59
    #4
    stuka
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    Re: Alternatives to bleeding the SW20 cooling system 2019/03/25 19:53:59 (permalink)
    +1 (1)
    As the others have said above, all good advice. Spill free funnel is a must, you can make a temporary one by inverting a 2L drink bottle, seal the neck to your fill point with plenty of blue tack and cut the bottom off so you can pour in coolant. Jacking car a little higher on the passenger side is even better too to help the bubbles find their way to the high fill point.
     
    There are 4 hoses to squeeze - 2 near at lowest point towards radiator, hose that attached to thermostat and hose from coolant tree to radiator.
     
    You really need a fitting instead of the bung on the radiator so you attach a hose to it, you wont bleed it properly if you cant fit a hose to a level above the highest point. Remove the bung and bring it to a speed shop that supplies AN fittings so they can identify the type of thread. You can probably get one that has a male on one end to fit the radiator with a 90 degree bend and a barbed end on the other. PM for details on a set up for this, I'll send you a photo.
    #5
    Matts_SW20
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    Re: Alternatives to bleeding the SW20 cooling system 2019/03/25 21:38:31 (permalink)
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    Thanks guys, 
     
    I have been bleeding the heater points. I have a funnel that is almost spill free as it fits snugly into the coolant neck:

     
    The car is currently sitting like this. The 19mm hose fits snugly over the barb but its not a perfect system as I have to have a 2nd person top up the coolant as I remove the hose in a panic and replace the bung with coolant going everywhere. When I squeeze the hoses that go to the radiator I can hear sloshing which would indicate air in the system which is utterly depressing after doing this for a week. 
     



     
    I'll leave it sitting up overnight with the funnel in but as I live in a questionable unit complex I won't leave frunk open. I'll try again tomorrow but this just doesn't seem to be working no matter what I try.

    MR2 Club of Australia (NSW Branch) Inc.
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    Fast Eddie
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    Re: Alternatives to bleeding the SW20 cooling system 2019/03/26 08:00:55 (permalink)
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    Silly question Is the car running when you are doing the above ?

           1990-GT-Turbo
     
    #7
    Matts_SW20
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    Re: Alternatives to bleeding the SW20 cooling system 2019/03/26 08:13:32 (permalink)
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    Yep done both running and not running

    MR2 Club of Australia (NSW Branch) Inc.
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    Reddtarga
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    Re: Alternatives to bleeding the SW20 cooling system 2019/03/26 09:51:35 (permalink)
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    stuka
    There are 4 hoses to squeeze - 2 near at lowest point towards radiator, hose that attached to thermostat and hose from coolant tree to radiator.
     
    You really need a fitting instead of the bung on the radiator so you attach a hose to it, you wont bleed it properly if you cant fit a hose to a level above the highest point. Remove the bung and bring it to a speed shop that supplies AN fittings so they can identify the type of thread. You can probably get one that has a male on one end to fit the radiator with a 90 degree bend and a barbed end on the other. PM for details on a set up for this, I'll send you a photo.


    I believe that is good advice, and should work.
    You could also incorporate a small tap to the fitting, just like OEM.
    Somewhere like Bursons or Repco should have all you need.
     
    FWIW:
    When squeezing the hoses in an attempt to get all the air out, on my car I have found the most effective squeeze point is the inlet hose going into the thermostat housing in the engine bay. That seems to cause the most bubbles to come out of the bleed hose from the top of the radiator. And that still occurs even after the system has been fully bled according to the service manual.
     
    Of course my car is an NA and still has the stock radiator.

    1990 ADM NA
     
     
     
     
     
    #9
    Matts_SW20
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    Re: Alternatives to bleeding the SW20 cooling system 2019/03/26 10:00:01 (permalink)
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    Yea I might look into the fittings today. I think I'm going to replace the thermostat again. It doesn't make sense why the radiator is dead cold and the rest of the engine very hot, even the heater hoses up to its bleed point is the same temp as the hoses in the rear. I've squeezed every imaginable hose on the car. 

    Last time I bled this system I could drive around the block and top up the coolant a little each time and that eventually bled the system, this time after every short drive its at the top of the neck so I'm thinking the thermostat isn't operating correctly and not opening to allow coolant to circulate to radiator. 

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    Mrskylighter
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    Re: Alternatives to bleeding the SW20 cooling system 2019/03/26 10:28:18 (permalink)
    +1 (1)
    Did you use a new genuine Toyota thermostat? I have had trouble with aftermarket thermostats on the 3S doing weird things like not opening properly or always open etc. The genuine ones are perfect and worth the extra $$$.
    #11
    Matts_SW20
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    Re: Alternatives to bleeding the SW20 cooling system 2019/03/26 10:45:55 (permalink)
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    Yea previously had a genuine one going to replace it with another genuine and new gasket. Also going to test it in boiling water to ensure its working properly before I drop coolant and install it again. 

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    Mrskylighter
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    Re: Alternatives to bleeding the SW20 cooling system 2019/03/26 10:50:36 (permalink)
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    The jiggle pin needs to be pointed straight up also which is found on the OEM thermostats (I've seen aftermarket without them). This lets the air move through the system and out. 
     
    Disregard if you already knew this :) 
    #13
    92 Hard Top
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    Re: Alternatives to bleeding the SW20 cooling system 2019/03/26 10:53:30 (permalink)
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    Make sure your heater is on/open as well. 
    Need have a bleed point like was stated above, that front hose is to high. I added a deep drip tray under the front the car as well so the coolant is  not going over the floor, can reuse it . To double check I have use a pump pressure system put 60 to 80 psi to the cooling system. Should do this to check for leaks and weak points. I do this on all rebuilds or every 100,000kms
    #14
    stuka
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    Re: Alternatives to bleeding the SW20 cooling system 2019/03/26 12:22:52 (permalink)
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    Many of us have been through this, once you work it out it will all seem simple. Interesting the fluid level in the temp hose from radiator is level with the fill up point, would suggest the air has been expelled from the radiator. Do you remove the pipe to radiator first before removing the funnel? That way you wont have air sucked back in through the radiator.
     
    Definitely handy to have the wife and mistress help out as many hands needed by the sounds of things!
     
    Would be interested in hearing how the test goes with the thermostat, Mike in SA had a brand new one from Toyota not work so it does happen. If thermostat passes the test maybe temporarily run the system without the thermostat to see if the water is going full circle.
     
    If Doug (falcon) is reading this he would ask - what brand water pump do you have? The Aisin/OEM brand is the way to go, hopefully you have that if it can be identified.
    #15
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