Hey mate, I just had a similar issue with running rich, mine was O2 sensor. Replaced that and it was all good. Also I would check your inside your ecu for leaking or expanded capacitors. (Just another problem I ran into after Restoring one back That had been sitting a while)

@ 92, my 1992 3SGTE runs a 2 wire o2 from factory

Hi Falcon, thank you for the info regarding the fuel line, I tried compressed air but no luck with the fuel filler cap on or off. Might be time to push a wire through it....
 
Your suggestion of changing the oil is a good point, I don't think it will be an issue since it has barely been driven until now but it is still cheap insurance and will be done.
 
Thanks again, Tony.

If you want to save having to remove the fuel tank you could cut out a section of the filler vent steel pipe and insert a " T " piece to take that fuel pressure regulator return line back to the tank.
Make sure to cap the existing hardline on the front bulkhead.
Ask me how I know it goes to the bottom of the tank ?!!

Tony Brown

Yes, I have considered that. Is tank removal a bitch of a job?

Totally!

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I backed it up onto ramps and had coolant added long enough to see that it's forward of the rear wheels and I will have to take the undertrays off to investigate further, axle stands front and rear should give enough room I think.
 
I'll keep you posted....

Those two drain plugs usually have fibre washers but some sealant on their threads works too.
Most unusual to have enough pressure rise in correctly operating cooling system to dislodge that pipe from it's housing. Have you pressure checked the cap yet ?
By the way. We commonly call that whole double housing "the coolant tree". It's not a thermostat housing. Thermostat is actually located in the inlet of the water pump ?

Still might be an idea to check the pressure that the cap opens.
Bit of sealant on those plugs now and you won't need to look at em again.
Original temperature gauge will sit at about the middle as dumb as an ox while the actual temp will climb to Gawd knows where before it will move. Hopeless for indicating an overheat situation. It will sometimes fluctuate wildly if there is a low coolant level causing air/gas to pass across the sensor. Way too late to be of any practical use.

Front of car down may have some benefit, maybe? Clear hoses on both radiator and heater core bleed points with both bleed valves open. SLOWLY trickle coolant in till it rises up in both clear hoses to the level of the filler cap. Close both valves. Remember that the air can only escape from behind the closed thermostat via the small jiggle valve and the coolant bypass hose. Hence the need to only fill very slowly allowing air to escape via the filler neck.
I suspect it is beneficial at this stage on Gen 2 engines to jack up the left hand side of the car as high as is safely possible. This sometimes produces a significant bubble of air to be emitted from the filler neck. Now just top up and install pressure cap. Overflow reservoir should be emptied and about half refilled with new clean coolant and it's hoses checked for blockages.
I now take the car for a short drive till it comes up to normal operating temp and pressure. I now carefully crack open the radiator bleed valve and make sure that solid coolant comes out under pressure proving the radiator is absolutely full. Same procedure is done to heater core bleed valve.
If the cooling system has no leaks it should draw coolant from the overflow reservoir when it cools right down overnight. So next morning is a good time to remove pressure cap and if necessary top up.