Best coolant for gen 3 3sgte

The one, the only, Toyota red.

Any coolant will help not boil, Toyota red formulated for the metals within the Mr2 system.

IMO. Best to flush the system, use distilled water not tap, replace your thermostat at the same time (ATS Racing does a high flow low temp should you be running higher boost or track, auto stores do a highflow), replace radiator cap. I like to overdo things and gives peace of mind until kms are done to service again.

xez
Any opinions on Nulon coolant?  and... Green or Red?

I've used Penrite red for the last 4 years...

maccardo94
Hi everyone. Am doing a coolant flush and re-fill. Previous owner used green coolant so il stay the same.
Whats the best green coolant around thats easy enough to get from supercheap, are the premixes any good or is it better to dilute your own. Also do i need a special anti freeze anti boil mix?

Drain and rinse the lot of that out, use red OAT, the  premix/concentrate argument comes down to cost, not sure of the top of my head how much coolant goes in as a total, but its more than compared to fwd cars.
 
You probably won't need anti-freeze unless you live in a cold part of the country.

A quick innanet search says you'll need around 13 litres, thats if you drain every drop out. 
 
There's a few drain points on sw's some are easier to get to than others.

maccardo94
Cool cool. So il flush all the green out and refill with this red one. Anyone know if this will be sufficient, says its good for toyota engines

Thanks

Sent from my CPH1725 using Tapatalk

In the overall scheme of things how much do you value your MR2 coolant system? (And motor)
 
For the last 12 years in my sdub I have only ever used TOYOTA RED CONCENTRATE mixed 50/50 with distilled water.
Apart from zero cooling problems, replaced at 2 year intervals, it always comes out with zero sludge or sediment, and hardly any discoloration.
The Toyota red stuff doesn't cost much more than other premium brands anyway, so why not use it? 
 
As Tony says "formulated for the metals within the Mr2 system"
To be more specific: Apart from the alloy head and cast iron block, that means especially the copper radiator, and copper heater pipes, etc.
 
One thing to know!! Be careful with pre-mixed.
Toyota also sell a PINK PRE-MIX but if you put that in it will ruin your original copper components.
 (I think it is designed for the later models that have aluminum radiators) 

Read the bgb, if you don’t have a copy download it.
The bgb will point out the drain points in the hardliners under the car, the engine drain point (from memory), and the radiator.
If you have green in your system, remember also clean out the overflow bottle in the engine bay. Full flush is required - fill system with distilled water, run vehicle, and flush/drain system at all drain points (as per bgb). You can use a compressor blow tool (with wet cloth to seal at tool point) at the various points to help blow remaining water out (though 99% will drain out). Then fill with Toyota Red Coolant, ensure full bleed as per bgb.
If you use anything other than Toyota Red - if you are skipping steps - you are creating a receipt for disaster. If you don’t want to take onboard advice from the manufacturer, those with experience, let me know and I won’t respond with the same advice again and again.